well its probably gonna happen

mossbergman

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the cobra intake mod that is. The thing is, im terrified to do it. my basic plans so far call for egr delete, imrc delete, and stock fuel rails, dlf style 03cobra/stock intake tube hybrid. so i have lots of questions, if you could imagine..
1. i know that some shorter bolts are required in certain places to bolt down the intake. which ones are they specifically, and where do i find them?

2. throttle/cruise cables and brackets.. which ones do i need from different cars? is it completely necessary to relocate the CC servo, or will a longer cable avoid that?

3. EGR delete. the plate to cap the egr on the intake manifold is pretty easily bought and solved. how/where would i cap the exhaust side though?

4. can i use the stock iac?

5. on throttle bodies.. is it best to use a stock flipped mark piece, a b head cobra one or an accufab like DLFs? is there any one kind that works/fits better than others?

6. with deleted egr (and associated dpfe), are there any less vacuum lines to be ran? with the lack of said vac lines would it still be necessary to tap the back of the manifold like DLF did?

7. what other vacuum related stuff has to be modded or coaxed into working?

thanks. you guys always seem to give me the courage to take a wrench to my car in ways i never thought i might :cool:
 
I'm going to assume that you've read everything that I wrote in this thread:

http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=32824

1. You'll need 2 8mmx1.25x70mm bolts for the two rear positions on the Cobra lower. I used stock style flanged bolts. The place I bought mine from doesn't seem to exist anymore. However, I do have a couple of spares, if you can't find them anywhere.

2. The only throttle cable bracket and cables that will bolt right up to the intake are from the '96-'98 Cobra. However, they're obsolete, difficult to find, and expensive if you do. If you're going to make your own bracket, then you can probably use your existing cables, or cables from a later year Cobra. Your choice of cable will dictate the location of the cruise servo.

3. I was unable to locate a cap that would thread on the fitting on the driver's exhaust manifold, so you'd probably have to make one using the nut from the stock EGR tube.

4. I'd strongly recommend a Cobra IAC.

5. Best is subjective, my opinion should be obvious. All will work.

6. The port that I made was only for the brake booster. If you're going to use an EGR delete plate, you could put a fitting in it and run the brake booster vacuum line to it instead.

7. The stock Mark VIII vacuum harness connects to the rear of the intake. You'll have to modify/extend it to attach to the left rear of the Cobra upper. There's also a vacuum fitting underneath the throttle body on the Cobra upper manifold that will need to either be attached to a vacuum line or capped.

And you'll need a new tune. ;)
 
I used the stock throttle bracket as-is and deleted the cruise control and used a basic throttle return spring. I put a large hex-head bolt in the top of the EGR tube and put a generous bead of JB weld around it(tube still attached to exhaust bung). I used the stock fuel rails but they are a tight fit. If you use the Cobra rails, expect to be messing around with a new fuel line setup. If I had the skills of DLF and tools on hand I would have a cleaner install, but I didn't simple as that.
 
Thanks Doug :)
I read your thread on LOD like the bible. i was hoping kirk would jump in here too because i think he deleted his egr but i dont know for sure. If i cant find the bolts i might have to beg you for some.

So some parts ill need besides the intake
-egr cap
-cobra iac and tube to intake tube
-I want to retain cruise for sure, so a longer CC cable and a longer throttle cable, from where i do not know as of yet
-cobra throttle cable bracket
-imrc delete plates
-maybe one of your handy-dandy delrin 03 cobra to mark valve cover tube adapter thingys
-03 cobra intake tube
-ill also need to extend the IAT wires adn another set I cant recall..

And like you said, a new tune. I think lonnie at BOC actually has a intake swapped mark so i should be in good hands as far as that goes.
 
I used the stock throttle bracket as-is and deleted the cruise control and used a basic throttle return spring. I put a large hex-head bolt in the top of the EGR tube and put a generous bead of JB weld around it(tube still attached to exhaust bung). I used the stock fuel rails but they are a tight fit. If you use the Cobra rails, expect to be messing around with a new fuel line setup. If I had the skills of DLF and tools on hand I would have a cleaner install, but I didn't simple as that.

waht would be really nice is if one you you 2 guys was closer, and could help. I have made quite a few friends though that would be able to help me no problem. :D
 
Mossy, you might want to join corral.net and a couple other stang forums to increase your chances on finding particular parts by perusing their classifieds section and posting a WTB ad. Also, I still think you are a stall converter away from deleting your IMRCs. I know you're gonna be right there with the intake swap but those are still gonna hurt your low-end tq at this point IMO.
 
waht would be really nice is if one you you 2 guys was closer, and could help. I have made quite a few friends though that would be able to help me no problem. :D

You should have thought about this before and got your parts together and came to the damn BBQ. :p
 
20120921_165428_zps0a096e32.jpg

Since I use a Cobra fuel rail, I cut 2 of the mounting tabs off my Mark rail and cut what I needed off the throttle/cruise bracket and welded it together. Now my cable brackets have Ford stamps ;)

20120814_092556.jpg

Upper brackets for Alternator, COP doesn't need the wire bridge over the Alt so I cleaned that up

20121126_080359.jpg

EGR delete, just cut the EGR pipe and remove the fitting, shear a bolt head off a bolt and weld it to the fitting.

20121126_081543.jpg

EGR plate, use an old piece of EGR pipe and make a little fitting for the brake booster

I'm using stock MarkVIII throttle and cruise cables. You'll need to relocate the cruise module to behind the wheel. There's already a hole to run the cable thru the wheel well (the same hole that people think is the access hole to remove the rear nut for the UCA)

I dunno if you've got a welder or not, but if you don't, you can mail me the little pieces I can do what needs to be done
 
20120921_165428_zps0a096e32.jpg

Since I use a Cobra fuel rail, I cut 2 of the mounting tabs off my Mark rail and cut what I needed off the throttle/cruise bracket and welded it together. Now my cable brackets have Ford stamps ;)

20120814_092556.jpg

Upper brackets for Alternator, COP doesn't need the wire bridge over the Alt so I cleaned that up

20121126_080359.jpg

EGR delete, just cut the EGR pipe and remove the fitting, shear a bolt head off a bolt and weld it to the fitting.

20121126_081543.jpg

EGR plate, use an old piece of EGR pipe and make a little fitting for the brake booster

I'm using stock MarkVIII throttle and cruise cables. You'll need to relocate the cruise module to behind the wheel. There's already a hole to run the cable thru the wheel well (the same hole that people think is the access hole to remove the rear nut for the UCA)

I dunno if you've got a welder or not, but if you don't, you can mail me the little pieces I can do what needs to be done
Whoa thank you so very much sapper. that helps immensely. I'll talk t some of my friends and see where we might do it. They have welders and stuff but if i do it at home id be SOL. How is your stock throttle cable long enough though? In Dougs thread, it seemed to me like it would be too short to work. Also what made you decide to do the cobra rail?
thanks ;)
 
Um, lots to read. But you may be able to re-route the cruise cable through another opening versus moving the module. That is how I did mine. The different hole gave me an extra foot in the engine bay.
 
Cobra rail looks cleaner, and it didn't take much fuel hose to make em fit.. 2x 3' pieces I believe .
MAN!!! I was just under there taking pics and wiping dust off and noticed theres a crack in my drivers manifold right before the cat all the way around... dayum.. good thing I was planning on a new exhaust soon anyway.

Anyway, use fuel hose clamps.. not just regular hose clamps, it'll be fine. I also had to use a spacer nut on the coolant crossover
Had to relocate the cruise module, haven't made the extension for the harness yet
I didn't think the throttle cable was an issue, the way I made the bracket was a stock fit
20121126_162210.jpg

20121126_173946.jpg


:(
20121126_163821.jpg
 
Damn i need some mph. Was racing a good friend in a stock auto 3v. Got him through 1st and the first part of second. But in the big part of second and into third he started motoring by. So the intake is needed badly
 
Its only worth 2-3 HP
From a financial aspect, I think you'd be better off sneaking in a 50-shot
 
Maybe for first Gen cars. I can't argue with results kirk and Doug have have after the switch
 
Hmm.. mine sure seems to dig a lot more now.. lol,

Doug , what kinda power difference did you discover with your swap? Mine hits the dyno in a month
 
Maybe for first Gen cars. I can't argue with results kirk and Doug have have after the switch

Moss, I don't want to burst your bubble but full exhaust with headers and tuning is key with making the Cobra intake produce results like Doug and I have. Consider the other boltons we have just icing on the cake. Also, shift high tough guy. 6500 rpms is still shortshifting with the Cobra intake IMO. It will be worth decent power if you open up your exhaust all the way to the block.
 
Moss, I don't want to burst your bubble but full exhaust with headers and tuning is key with making the Cobra intake produce results like Doug and I have. Consider the other boltons we have just icing on the cake. Also, shift high tough guy. 6500 rpms is still shortshifting with the Cobra intake IMO. It will be worth decent power if you open up your exhaust all the way to the block.

+1
If you're going to take more air in, you've gotta be able to get rid of it just as fast
 
Moss, I don't want to burst your bubble but full exhaust with headers and tuning is key with making the Cobra intake produce results like Doug and I have. Consider the other boltons we have just icing on the cake. Also, shift high tough guy. 6500 rpms is still shortshifting with the Cobra intake IMO. It will be worth decent power if you open up your exhaust all the way to the block.
Won't get any arguments out of me. Headers/stall are on the list, just getting there one piece at a time.. sucks being poor
 

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