water pump replacement 2000 lincoln conti

dfoy50

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hi guy's . can anyone tell me how much trouble it is to change the water pump on a 2000 lincoln conti . any little hints or tricks would be helpful . also any tipes on how to purge air out of cooling system would be great as well....... thanks in advance drew:confused:
 
I complained enough when I did the serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler pulley! I don't know how much more of a PITA it will be (eventually) to do the water pump.

You will want to disconnect the front engine brace (the "dogbone") and loosen (not remove) the lower engine mount nuts so you can tilt the engine forward / up enough to give you the clearance you'll need against the strut tower. I used a piece of 4x4 wood on a car jack. It won't hurt the oil pan since you aren't actually lifting the engine but just rotating it.

I also bought the serpentine belt tool from Summit Racing. You can use a regular 3/8ths inch breaker bar too, but the tool is thinner. In the end I don't think it was all too helpful but having it can't hurt either. It's used to release tension on the belt to remove it.

Go ahead and use a new serpentine belt when you're done, and it is very well worth it to order the Goodyear Gatorback belt for this car. Once you have it you'll see why no belt is better!

That's as far as I've ever gone in this area. Good luck with the rest, and hopefully others can chime in with more.
 
hi guy's . can anyone tell me how much trouble it is to change the water pump on a 2000 lincoln conti . any little hints or tricks would be helpful . also any tipes on how to purge air out of cooling system would be great as well....... thanks in advance drew:confused:

it's relatively easy compared to other cars, you might think it's difficult because of the cramped space. Once you took out the coolant reservoir tank, there's plenty of space to remove the water pump pulley and then the 4 bolts for the water pump is readily accessible.

you have to remove the coolant crossover cap to properly bleed the system but in most cases you don't need to. once the cap is out, pour coolant in the pipe until full and let it run, close it when coolant spews out with no bubbles. as an alternative you can put coolant in the reservoir tank until max, leave the cap open and start the car until it warms up for 20mins. turn off the car and let it cool down, add more coolant (level will go down after it has cooled down) repeat the process until the coolant level stays the same.
 
dfoy50 here is the procedure out of the workshop manual: It goes in steps from taking off the serpentine belt, remove alternator, then finally the water pump. I know there is an easier way to do this but here is what the manual says.

Water pump: 1st Page
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Belt removal:
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Remove Alternator:
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Water pump: 2nd page
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*The serpentine removal process if I were you I would get a new idler pulley, new belt tensioner while you have everything disassembled that way you won't have to take it all apart again. That's why I included some extra steps from the manual that way you have everything.

*Listen to lincolnelite for the burping coolant bleeding. Make sure you cover the accessory drive belt and pulleys with a piece of plastic wrap or something spray some WD-40 on the coolant crossover plug, let it set in there that way you won't be breaking 1/4 drive ratchets. It can get kind of tough. Make sure you have someone close by to give you a hand. Take breaks too!
** Make sure you get Zerex ethelyne glycol green coolant it will say Ford Lincoln Mercury it has extra silicate in it for the pump and system make sure you get this. This is Lincoln's version of Cadillac's GM DexCool.
*** Use a good torque wrench! You will need this tool! :)

Let me know if there is anything else you think you need.
 

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