Transmission Issue Diagnosed? OEM or Aftermarket

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LQ1906

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So I got the transmission looked at again by a transmission shop that has been around for over 40 years and has good reviews today and they sure enough came back and said that the Solenoid Block needed replacing. They quoted me $585 for replacing with Ford/Motorcraft Solenoids. What do you guys think about that? Also they stated that the price includes transmission flush and fill as well and that as long as the transmission pan was clean that the price would remain as such. Of course I'm praying that there is no metal shavings in the pan or no sludge etc or any other unknown issues.

Would you guys go with the OEM block or prefer a Aftermarket brand, they told me it was up to me but that most always go with OEM...also while the pan is dropped is it best if the shift springs be replaced or should I take an "if ain't broke don't fix it"mentality? If not how much are those parts and is there any additional labor cost involved?
 
OEM!
Get the springs replaced. A shift kit is inexpensive.

I am curious as to how they are certain that it is the solenoids if they haven't even dropped the pan yet. Did they do PCM current tests?
 
joegr said:
OEM!
Get the springs replaced. A shift kit is inexpensive.

I am curious as to how they are certain that it is the solenoids if they haven't even dropped the pan yet. Did they do PCM current tests?
Click to expand...

Well they hooked the car up to a few scanners so I don't know if that's what they were testing but after that he took it on a ten minute test drive and that's what he came back with. Also said that 95% of the time with the LS thats what it was...said they had worked on this car many times. If there are no codes being thrown wouldn't that mean that it's not a PCM or electrical issue like that?
 
LQ1906 said:
...If there are no codes being thrown wouldn't that mean that it's not a PCM or electrical issue like that?
Click to expand...

No. Read the threads on it. Those that had transmission issues related to FET failures in the PCM had no codes.
I'm not saying that having no codes means that it is the PCM, just that having no codes does not mean that it isn't. AFAIK, PCM failure related to transmission control has never set a code.
 
See that is where my issue lies....where to start first? Should I just send the PCM out for repair or go with the solenoid block replacement? I've read on several threads where guys have changed the PCM only to find that it wasn't the issue and they still had to change the solenoid block. I dn't have extra money to spend especially with the holidays and my several birthdays right around the corner.
 
You're in the same boat that a lot of people are. There is a test that can be run that can confirm that it is (or isn't) the PCM. The cost of this test is likely to be similar to the cost of sending it in for repair, if the repair is unneeded.
 
Thats actually a really good price for that job. The part alone is north of $300 oem list. Do make sure he is qouting a new OEM and not a rebuilt. Joe is also talking about what I have said, do both one time labor not two. My shift kit was around 100 dollars, and he may charge a little more labor since he has to pull the valve body to work on it. Even if he charges another hundred, your still less than my $965.

As far as which way, yours is so close to mine in how it behaves I would think your ok with waiting on the PCM. If they hooked it to the scanners that go at the PCM in the engine area, he did the solenoid tests there. I still lean to the tranny internals, because the solenoid is a known common issue, and it is a fact that these really needed routine service where in Ford say they are 'sealed' and dont advertise it so much.

Either way, any of these cars we buy now are way overdue the internal service. So your not wasting money or time. Guy is likely to be giving you a two or 3 year warranty on work, OEM Ford is two years, so you cant loose. If the PCM is bad as well, this rules out anything else - and the PCM work is not nearly as costly.

This guy may even know about the PCM issues if he has worked on alot of these, and can test to rule that out.
 
grizzlyls said:
...and it is a fact that these really needed routine service where in Ford say they are 'sealed' and dont advertise it so much...
Click to expand...

The service schedule that comes with the car does say to completely change the ATF every 150K miles. You can argue (and I agree) that this is too long, but it isn't true that Ford said sealed with no service needed at all.
 
Ya, why I use qoutes. I should say that I heard that from at least a couple of dealers over the life of my two cars.... My tranny mech wants me in every 50k, which I will probably do.
 
So if Im back to replacing the Solenoid block my question still stands is it better to got with Motorcraft for no as some on these threads have went with aftermarket parts because the OEM will only last another 50K-60K miles before same problem. The repair guy said that the OEM they use has since been redone and is not new old stock so it should be fine. I may just take his word for it.
 
How many times do you want the same answer to the same question?
OEM. The others are just poor rebuilds of the original OEM part.
The solenoid assembly in my 06 is closing in on 160K miles (though it may just be starting to have a minor issue).
 
To clarify, some parts its really not worth risking saving 100 or so bucks on. What the mech is saying is he uses someones rebuilt. We are saying stay away from that, and go with a fresh OEM. A good rebuild may last a little while, but whats to know which one is good?

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-1L2Z-7G...automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

This for example is the cost of a fresh one from Ford. You will have to verify the part number because they change the last letters by build date. Talk to ford/ lincoln parts locally and give them the VIN and ask how much, and the correct part number. Hopefully they are friendly and will give you that.

Then talk to the guy and say PLEASE let me order a fresh new OEM, and have him do the rest. Hes probably charging $175 - 200$ for the rebuilt anyhow. Let him buy the shift kit, so he can make up for the little bit of profit share he would have on the assembly. Interestingly my mech didnt even want to use a rebuilt.

If you bring the verified part number from ford here, I will help you find the best price, or if you feel comfortable just google.
 
I apologize Joe as I hadn't seen your response to go with OEM in your earliest post. ;) Somehow I read right past that. Checked with Atomic Transmission and it is new from Ford. So should be all good on that. Will look up shift kit on Amazon to see what I come up with. Can't wait to get this fixed hopefully next week as it gets annoying with that slamming in reverse and 4th gear and always scare me that the trans is going to give out any minute.
 
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