timing chain tensioners... lots of pics

chris2523

93 Mark VIII
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well, long story short, my mom's 2000 LS V8 chucked a timing chain tensioner a few weeks back. and between holidays, snow delayed deliveries, and it being really cold outside, i just finished this project. and good lord. i don't wanna do that again!

but my main point for posting, there is no way i could have finished this without this website and those who contribute. i spent as much time on this website looking up torque specs and write ups as i did actually wrenching on the car itself! so i appreciate it. thanks gents!



and since i know you all get bored without some pics to look at... ;)

initial disassembly. yep.. something is definitely broke. tensioner pad is gone.

IMG_3141.jpg


IMG_3140.jpg


the other tensioner. also broke. big crack on the side. that can't be good..

IMG_3151.jpg


then i removed the cam caps, lifted the cam slightly and popped out the tensioner.

IMG_3148.jpg


new tensioners have arrived!

IMG_3147.jpg


then popped in the new tensioner, busted out my brand new inch pound torque wrench and reinstalled the cam caps.

IMG_3150.jpg


valve covers back on. looks like an engine again!

IMG_3152.jpg


intake and such reinstalled. this thing has a ton of vacuum lines...

IMG_3155.jpg


then, concerned about where all the plastic chunks went, i dropped and cleaned the oil pan and oil pump pickup screen.

IMG_3154.jpg


IMG_3156.jpg


oil change as well. new oil. new filter.

then, got in the car, floored the gas pedal (kills the injectors) and cranked it for awhile to build some oil pressure for the tensioners and started it up. runs like a top!
mission success!! now with new tensioners, new valve cover gaskets and new oil pan seal! should be good to go on that front for quite some time now.

~ Chris
 
Looks like she needs to change the oil more often. And/or use a full, true (NOT Castrol) synthetic.
 
And you never found any large pieces of the tensioner shoe? That would always be in the back on my mind like a splinter.
 
And you never found any large pieces of the tensioner shoe? That would always be in the back on my mind like a splinter.

Yeah, the oil pan is easy to remove and replace on the V8. I'd do that.
 
i'll take that under advisement.



i did find several good sized chunks and lots of little pieces.


Thats good news! Did any of the plastic parts get pulverized like it was carried throughout the engine?
 
This looks like a worthy PM job. General but related question: any way to tell from the b-pillar which type of tensioner is in the 1st gen motor?

I searched both here and Jag forums and found post Sept '01 should be OK but there could be post Sept '01 build dates that have pre-Sept '01 motors.

The gen II guys will simply say get 03+ (or even better a 06) lol.
 
Not bad Chris, Good job, way to help out the Moms in the world!
 
Looks like she needs to change the oil more often. And/or use a full, true (NOT Castrol) synthetic.

My thoughts.. Damn, how many miles are on that beast?


Mine looks like brand new inside
 
Thats good news! Did any of the plastic parts get pulverized like it was carried throughout the engine?

from the chunks i found, i expect it rolled through the cam gear. probably what messed up the timing. i found two large chunks, and then many smaller pieces. i cleaned everything i could see/feel out of the pick up screen and removed some more from the bottom of the pan.

My thoughts.. Damn, how many miles are on that beast?


Mine looks like brand new inside

hmm. close to 150k i believe. we bought it around 90k or so.

what do the insides of these other, cleaner engines look like? anyone have a pic handy?
 
@chris2523,

Just to follow up on this subject as I'm in the midst of stocking parts I eventually will need for my LS.

Can you elaborate a bit more on this;
"then i removed the cam caps, lifted the cam slightly and popped out the tensioner."

So am I understanding this correctly, it is possible to lift the exhaust cam up just slightly and
thereby allowing enough room to clear the tentioners on both sides ?

Did you mark the cam position before doing this ?
or was it that you already realized that it had jumped one tooth ?
How did you know where to return it to it's correct location ?

I can look it up but do you remember the torque requirements on the cam cap bolts ?

'preciate the addition information if possible,
I'm just making sure I have it all written down for when this job arises.

thanks!
 
after unbolting the cam caps, there is enough movement to allow lifting up the exhaust cam and then remove the secondary tensioner. i did have to lift it more than just slightly though. i lifted it while my brother removed and reinserted the tensioners.
i didn't mark anything, because the chain had already skipped.
it seems to be the popular do it yourself method on the jag boards. i found a lot of reference to doing it this way.

i reset the timing by rotating the engine until the intake cam had the flat showing, then matched up the exhaust cam flat.

on the other side, i was just careful not to let the chain move on the gear. nothing special as the timing was fine over there.

for the cam caps:

He wanted to know torque specs on the cam bearing caps too.

First off, they are positional, so you have to reuse them in the same location and orientation.

Second, you start torquing the middle bolts first, and work your way outwards, alternating between firewall side and hood side of the center cap.

Third, torque specs:

First, hand tighten
Second, tighten to 6Nm
Third, tighten another 1/4 turn

the cam caps, as noted, have to go back where they came from. but fortunately, mine were numbered with an arrow pointing to the front of the engine. so it was very easy.


alright, did i hit all your questions?
 
Yeah, thanks so much Chris, I'll copy these notes down.
Looks and sounds easy enough.

thanks again.
 
the saga continues.
the car still made noise, so the chains got pulled.

line up new next to old.
2013-07-30134450_zps8f7e5ab4.jpg


they are not the same length.
2013-07-30134500_zpsf4a33329.jpg


severely damaged chain link. notice the gap.
2013-07-30134539_zpsf01a459e.jpg


and a damaged roller.
2013-07-30134615_zps048418c6.jpg
 
Ouch!

note: master link has to be in direction of engine turn rotation.

btw: those links on the "new" chain don't look near as beefy as the OEM chain links.
 

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