telescoping feature stopped working

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D Hook

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Can't get the steering wheel to move in our out using the toggle switch on the bottom of the steering column. I know the mechanism works because it will still move when using the drivers presets. Is this switch a common failure and is there a way to trouble shoot without removing? I checked the work shop manual and it seems like quite an extensive process to get to the switch.

Any insight much appreciated.
 
Steering

9 times out of 10 it is the potentiometer inside the column. Not a big deal to repair if you have the experiance. There is a how to in the tech section here or LOD showing the procedure. The only problem being the part is now discontinued. I have had success prying the cover off the unit, cleaning the sliding contacts with alcohol and reassembling it. Works fine after that or you can purchase one of my rebuilts and just swap the column, a 30 minute job. I also take yours in trade. Thanks Bruce
 
So it's not the switch you think? I can still tilt the wheel up and down.

I found the write-up on Lincolns online. Looks like an entire removal of the column is necessary to fix this.
 
Mine is opposite; I can't tilt up and down, but in/out yes. What I have to do is actually push up on the steering wheel (maybe apply 5 - 10 lbs) and toggle the switch simultaneously, then it works.
 
Saggybags, yours needs the slide contacts cleaned as Bruce mentioned above. If you can never get them to move with some assistance, usually one the ears in the potentiometer has broken off.
 
I found a Gen2 in my local yard, steering column is already dropped and laying in the back seat.
If you want the module let me know, I'm heading back tomorrow to grab the mint looking headlights
 
Mine will telescope in, but not out. Will also tip up/down. It is my switch, dead on one leg (as it is a replacement column with my old switch assembly installed). I know the column drive mechanisms work as I tested them before putting the column in. I have a spare switch that works, so my fix will be to de-solder the old switch and solder the working switch in one weekend.

Your situation may be similar to mine. If someone has a working MFS for a good price, grab it.
 
markup97 said:
Mine will telescope in, but not out. Will also tip up/down. It is my switch, dead on one leg (as it is a replacement column with my old switch assembly installed). I know the column drive mechanisms work as I tested them before putting the column in. I have a spare switch that works, so my fix will be to de-solder the old switch and solder the working switch in one weekend.
Click to expand...

Switch connects to the MFS PCB via a header connector - no soldering required!
 
have you got that on that steering at the backseat of the car how much you want for potentiometer?
 
on my other mark i hit it down while using the switch it would get stuck sometimes!:eek2:
 
If you go to a junkyard, get the potentiometer out of a first gen LS. It is a better design and fits just fine in a Mark VIII column. Thanx Bruce
 
Just as a follow-up to this; my potentiometer was bad. It has two sets of 'fingers' that lock around pins at either end of the potentiometer. I found the back 'finger' (the last of the four) was broken off. It would allow the slide back reading and response, but since no 'finger' held the back of the potentiometer from moving forward, I would get no real forward travel as there was nothing holding the potentiometer body from sliding.

I made a new set of 'fingers' from .040" aluminum and glued them to the old location of the rear fingers. Works well now, and while there I cleaned up the slide contacts.
 
Ive noticed that mine wont work when it gets cold. after a few minutes of heat, it starts to work.
 
Green,

Your issue may be the motors/slides/tracks improperly greased. Different types of greases have different viscosities and will resist movement at certain temps. If the grease on there now is old or of the wrong 'thickness', it may be too thick at colder temps to allow movement. Once the grease is warmed up, it will thin just enough to allow things to start happening.
It could also be that your sliding contact is worn just enough to not make contact when it is cold (as metal shrinks when it becomes cold) and will work once the metal contacts warm up enough to create the needed contact.

****I make these statements based purely on my experience as an aircraft mechanic and should NOT be taken as Gospel!****
 
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I was tempted to dig into mine, it basically only telescopes out, no matter which was I move the switch. Tilting it always goes a little ways the opposite way then usually in the selected position.

Now that I fixed whatever was taking out my SCIL and requiring me to pull the battery (and it defaulting back to easy entry, reverse mirror dip, etc) I don't really care as much.
 
my column is stuck all the way out, and only moves up and down...ill be getting one from Bruce soon when I get my tax return money.
 
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