Someone school me on Gen II ball joints...

Lincoln Luebbe

Lincoln Luebbe

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Like a better place to get them other than Ford. I don't think Ford even sells them individually.
Also anything special I need to look out for like difference between sport/non-sport or are they all the same?
 
I believe your 06 uses 16mm ball joints... Moog p/n K500085

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Can't correct you but I was told the Moog ones from RockAuto will press into your steering knuckle. You are correct in saying that they don't sell just the lower ball joint, they sell it with the steering knuckle making it around/over $400.

The conclusion I came to is that any suspension, steering, chassis part that has a press fit is sold with both mating parts as an assembly. Wonder who the genius is behind that?
 
jmtiseo said:
...The conclusion I came to is that any suspension, steering, chassis part that has a press fit is sold with both mating parts as an assembly. Wonder who the genius is behind that?
Click to expand...

Ford is trying to move more of the repair profit from the dealers (which Ford only gets a fraction of) to themselves.
 
That makes sense.

Also, I could be wrong with this but when I checked I was told over the phone that it comes with the steering knuckle, lower ball joint, and possibly the hub. I'm not sure on the hub however.
 
joegr said:
Ford is trying to move more of the repair profit from the dealers (which Ford only gets a fraction of) to themselves.
Click to expand...

It does also take a little more care and know-how since the parts are cast aluminum as well. Maybe they also think the average parts slinger won't be careful enough with them.
 
Kumba said:
It does also take a little more care and know-how since the parts are cast aluminum as well. Maybe they also think the average parts slinger won't be careful enough with them.
Click to expand...

I'm sure that was part of the consideration.
 
Is Moog a good alternative to OEM? I only want to do this once if I have to, know what I mean?
I have not used them although that is one of the brands I see people use on here. I have not read any firsthand experience with them though...
 
Just looked up that part # online, $233.00 for a single ball joint only does that seem right? Isn't it just a little piece of rubber with a bolt in it, smaller than a fist?
 
It's a ball and stud with a rubber boot coverin it, which also keeps the grease inside

Mine were around 49ish a piece
 
Thomas, check RockAuto.com - should be about $50. Thats where I got the part number from.
 
Lincoln Luebbe said:
Is Moog a good alternative to OEM? I only want to do this once if I have to, know what I mean?
I have not used them although that is one of the brands I see people use on here. I have not read any firsthand experience with them though...
Click to expand...

Moog is one of the best aftermarket parts you can buy. Lifetime warranty.
 
The Moog ones are the best replacement, I had my lower ones replaced and pressed with them, local good shop charged me about $120 in labor. Much cheaper route than getting completely new control arms. Stay away from the ebay ones, you will be lucky if they last a year.
 
I got the ebay ones like 2 years ago because there was nothing else out yet. They have very soft thin rubber boot that rip just looking at them. But they have been in there so far. Will do moogs when these poop out.
 
Kumba said:
It does also take a little more care and know-how since the parts are cast aluminum as well. Maybe they also think the average parts slinger won't be careful enough with them.
Click to expand...

Agree with you there.

Cheapest I found Moog ones were $143 from RockAuto. They're the only aftermarket chassis part I would use. "The Problem Solver" or at least the money saver in our situation compared to the $400 or so for the knuckle.
 
UPDATE: Thanks for all the info on the 16 mm ball joints everyone. I jacked up the driver's side last night (were I have been having issues since 49K miles, now at 95K miles) and checked the ball joints, upper and lower the way I saw mechanics checking them on youtube, getting leverage and trying to get movement on the ball joint. They seem to be perfectly tight. No movement whatsoever... I have just had very poor handling in this car since I have owned it and thought they were contributing to it.

I put new springs (eibach), new OEM struts all around, new rack and pinion, and had new tires on at 60K miles including alignment. Tires are shot 2 years later from wearing badly and vibration/sloppy bouncy non-composed ride continues. I know my rear sway bar end links are loose and I am doing that next but I really thought the front ball joints would have had something to do with the sucky front end handling. Tie rod ends seem fine to??? IDK but I plan on keeping the LS for at least another 2 years and want it to be safe. BTW I had a Gen I lowered with comparable miles so I know how these cars are supposed to handle. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
It is very hard to tell with our ball joints....

Mine seemed fine , but the handling was weird... had the two lower joints replaced and all was better for awhile (until other stuff started breaking)
 
2000sport did you have any play at all?? Any uneven roads make my car lose it's composure big time. I am tempted to do the sway bars and then see if anything changes handling-wise and maybe go from there?
 
No noticeable play, but the car felt loose over rough roads.

sway bar links would be a good idea...

I doubt your bushings are too bad, considering your car's age and mileage.

When I helped Bullschmidt with his sway bar links last week, I peaked at his front sway bar bushings, and he has an 05 LS (I think) with comparable mileage, and has been driven in lovely cleveland winters... and they showed no signs of cracking/falling apart.

I would start with the end links, as they are a pretty easy DIY job, and relatively cheap for the high-end Moog parts, which are much thicker than the stock ford pieces.
 
My LS has also felt weird over uneven roads since day one of my ownership. Steering pulls to one side and tries to turn on its own. My front end suspension is as tight as it can be, so it must be the rack. Wasn't there a TSB on those?
 
I think there was a TSB for the first gen... Something about a spring being to light.. replacing with a stronger spring seemed to work... if anyone finds it, post it up... because I can't find it.
 
Lincoln Luebbe said:
UPDATE: Thanks for all the info on the 16 mm ball joints everyone. I jacked up the driver's side last night (were I have been having issues since 49K miles, now at 95K miles) and checked the ball joints, upper and lower the way I saw mechanics checking them on youtube, getting leverage and trying to get movement on the ball joint. They seem to be perfectly tight. No movement whatsoever... I have just had very poor handling in this car since I have owned it and thought they were contributing to it.

I put new springs (eibach), new OEM struts all around, new rack and pinion, and had new tires on at 60K miles including alignment. Tires are shot 2 years later from wearing badly and vibration/sloppy bouncy non-composed ride continues. I know my rear sway bar end links are loose and I am doing that next but I really thought the front ball joints would have had something to do with the sucky front end handling. Tie rod ends seem fine to??? IDK but I plan on keeping the LS for at least another 2 years and want it to be safe. BTW I had a Gen I lowered with comparable miles so I know how these cars are supposed to handle. Any advice would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

About a year ago, you posted that you had a highway speed vibration. It looks like you changed out the rack & pinion since then.

Was that the cause or are you still having the same issue?
 
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