Solenoid R&R - 2002 Lincoln LS V8 (5R55N)

2002LSV8

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"Problem - Hard Shifting (Park to Reverse, Reverse to Drive, Park to Drive) - New Solenoid Pack fixed it"

Removing Transmission Pan and Solenoid Pack - Part 1 of 3

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Watch YouTube video to get general idea - Ford Explorer 5R55S Transmission Solenoid Pack Replace

Check this post (first five pictures for a visual of what the parts look like) -

Lifting car up on jack stands -

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Tools Needed for this part:
7/8 or 22mm Socket
8mm Socket
10mm - Gear Wrench with Flex Head
11mm Wrench
T-30 Torx Bit

** DISCONNECT Negative Battery Cable **

Put car on 4 Jacks Stands (Leveled)

LEVEL FOR FILLING "A MUST" - Put a level on the frame under door where a lift would lift car
** Fluid Level - Too Low or Too High - Will cause hard shift problems - MUST BE JUST RIGHT

Drain Transmission Fluid - remove Drain Plug on transmission pan, not inner Fluid Level Plug - 7/8 or 22mm Socket
*Replace Drain Plug after drain fluid to prevent leaking​

Remove - the shift cable bracket 2 Bolts - 11mm Wrench
shiftcablebracket.gif

Disconnect the digital transmission range (TR) sensor connector - unplugs
digitaltransmissionrangeTRsensorconnector.gif


Remove - The plastic wire harness that attaches to the front of the transmission pan

Remove - 1 Bolt (10mm - Gear Wrench with Flex Head) on top of Solenoid Pack, holding the electrical connection on.
transmissionconnector.gif
Note: I cut my "Gear Wrench with Flex Head" down to 3 5/8" total length​
GearWrenchwithFlexHead.jpg
** This is a Very tight area to get at with a wrench​


Remove - Transmission Pan and Gasket - 16 Bolts - 8mm Socket
Note: The front of pan needs to be lowered first to clear the crossmember at the back of the pan.​
**Careful - there is still about a quart of fluid left in the pan, some WILL spill out.​
transmissionfluidpanandgasket.gif

Remove - Transmission Filter - 2 Bolts - 8mm Socket
transmissionfluidfilter.gif

Disconnect - the Reverse Pressure Switch from the bottom of the Solenoid Pack - unplugs
reversepressureswitchconnector.gif

Remove - Solenoid Pack - 8 Bolts - T-30 Torx Bit - (7 long bolts, 1 short bolt)
solenoidbody-boltstorquepattern.gif

***

Clean - inside of Transmission Pan, Gasket Rim, and Magnet inside of pan
Install New Drain Plug & center Fluid Level Plug​
Torque Drain Plug - 7/8 or 22mm Socket - Torque 228 in/lbs

New Transmission Pan Gasket is optional (they are reusable, inspect gasket for damage)​
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Installing Solenoid and Transmission Pan - Part 2 of 3

Tools Needed for this part:
T-30 Torx Bit
8mm Socket
10mm - Gear Wrench with Flex Head
11mm Wrench
Torque Wrench

(Lubricate the O-ring seals on Solenoid Pack with clean automatic transmission fluid)
O-ringsealsonthesolenoidbodyconnector.gif

Install Solenoid Pack - Make sure the Solenoid Pack is properly seated where the electrical connection goes in

Bolt Solenoid Pack - 8 Bolts - T-30 Torx Bit - Torque 71 in/lbs
Note: 7 Long Bolts & 1 Short Bolt (#7 in the Torque Pattern is the short bolt)​
*** Torque Bolts In Correct Torque Pattern​
solenoidbody-bolts.gif

Install - 1 Bolt to top of Solenoid Pack, electrical connection - 10mm - Gear Wrench with Flex Head
transmissionconnector.gif
Hand Tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn after bottoming out - Unable to Torque, no room​

Plug-in ** Plug in the Reverse Pressure Switch in to the bottom of the Solenoid Pack
reversepressureswitchconnector.gif

Install - NEW Transmission Filter - 2 Bolts - 8mm Socket - Torque 89 in/lbs
(Lubricate the 2 new seals with clean automatic transmission fluid)​
transmissionfluidfilter.gif

Install the Transmission Pan and Gasket (Cleaned - NEW Drain Plug & Fluid Level Plug)
Loosely install the bolts, do 1 bolt in the 4 corners first to hold pan up, then the other bolts​
Torque Bolts -16 Bolts - 8mm Socket - Using a crisscross sequence, Torque 96 in/lbs
transmissionfluidpanandgasket.gif

Reconnect - the shift cable bracket 2 Bolts - 11mm Wrench - Torque 216 in/lbs
shiftcablebracket.gif

Reconnect - the digital transmission range (TR) sensor connector - Plugs in
digitaltransmissionrangeTRsensorconnector.gif

Reconnect - the plastic wire harness that attaches to the front of the transmission pan
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Filling Transmission Fluid - Part 3 of 3

Tools Needed for this part:
T-30 Torx Bit
T-50 Torx Bit
Attwood Gear Lube Pump (WalMart $6.98) - Bought two, just in case the 1st one broke (it didn't)​

Reconnect The Negative Battery Cable

LEVEL - Recheck Car Is Level - Use Leveler.

Remove Fill Plug at rear of transmission - T-50 Torx Bit
TrannyFillPlugPic-1.jpg
* This picture is from a post on this forum, but can not recall who posted it​

Pump Fluid into Fill Plug at rear of transmission -
Put in same amount that you drained out (plus a 1/2 a quart)​
* took 1-2 minutes pumping per bottle, with the Gear Lube Pump​

Torque Fill Plug at rear of transmission - T-50 Torx Bit - Torque 180 in/lbs

Loosen - center Fluid Level Plug from the Drain Plug on the Transmission Pan - T-30 Torx Bit

Start car - Keep Foot On Brake (with emergency brake on) while shifting thru gears
Shift thru all gears, Pause (5 seconds) between shifts​

Let car idle for about 10 minutes, depending on your ambient temperature
Need transmission fluid temp to be between 80°F - 120°F​
* My ambient temperature was about 80°F, took about 10 minutes of idle time to get to 100°F​

Remove center Fluid Level Plug on Transmission Pan and watch for correct fluid drip - Add more fluid if needed
FluidDrippingOut-Full.gif
*Picture shows the "Fill Adaptor" being used, so disregard that part, fluid will drip from the center Fluid Level hole​
*Fluid Level - Too Low or Too High - Will cause hard shift problems - MUST BE JUST RIGHT​

Tighten center Fluid Level Plug - T-30 Torx Bit - Torque 89 in/lbs

Turn car off

Lower car from jacks

Discounted Negative Battery Cable for 10 minutes to reset PCM

Do the KAM Reset for the PCM (per Owner's Guide, page 228)

Test Drive Car.............................................

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Parts List with Part Numbers:

Solenoid Pack (XW4Z-7G391-AF)​

Trans Oil Pan Drain Plug (includes Fluid Level Plug) (4W4Z-7A010-AA)​

Trans Filter (XW4Z-7A098-BB)​

Purchased from:
AutoNation Ford White BearLake, MN - (online) - Friendly company, Fast shipping
*Note: Call them for parts availability before ordering (1-800-328-9552)​


Cost:
Solenoid Pack $241.10​

Drain/Fluid Level Plugs $8.10​

Trans Filter $23.82​

Shipping (USPS) $14.36​

Total $287.38​

Transmission Fluid:
Mercon V ATF - $7.25 a quart at local Ford Dealership​

digitaltransmissionrangeTRsensorconnector.gif


shiftcablebracket.gif


transmissionfluidpanandgasket.gif


transmissionfluidfilter.gif


reversepressureswitchconnector.gif


solenoidbody-boltstorquepattern.gif


O-ringsealsonthesolenoidbodyconnector.gif


transmissionconnector.gif


GearWrenchwithFlexHead.jpg


solenoidbody-bolts.gif


FluidDrippingOut-Full.gif


TrannyFillPlugPic-1.jpg
 
Just a heads up, when I tore down my 5r55n, I used a stubby 10mm ratcheting wrench so I didn't need to cut one. For others info, if you're not down with cutting one.
 
How timely! I was just about to start searching the board for how to do this because I think my solenoids just went bad. Suddenly the 1-2 shift hits hard at any throttle, and the 2-3 flares when it shifts.

Anyone have a parts list for this job?
 
Very nice write-up and contribution, thank you!
 
Thanks. That video really is a useful one, showing how the trans is filled and level of fluid is adjusted.

Going to add some Lucas trans additive to it tomorrow to try and Band-Aid it along for now. It doesn't act up nearly as badly when it's cold so I'm hoping the Lucas will stabilize the parts. My truck is almost done and I want it on the road before taking the LS down for transmission work so the LS will have to limp along for about another 3-4 weeks.

One last question - is there any value to replacing the valve body at the same time, since it has to come out for the new packs? I've read random posts about having to ream out valves when looking into this problem, and if it would be helpful I'd like to do it as an all-in-one.
 
Telco,

Removing the solenoid pack doesn't require removing the valve body, it sets right next to it. Now, if your removing the valve body, then you also have to remove the solenoid pack.

I thought about doing the valve body at the same time, but then thought not, didn't want to put that much work into it at this time.
 
Thank you so much for all of the great information here!

I might be bringing this thread back, but I have a question on part numbers.

I just called the dealer with the VIN for my '03 V8 Sport, and verified twice that it is a 5R55S.

However, the solenoid number that they gave me was a 1L2Z-7G391-AE or -AG. They couldn't match the XW4Z number that the OP provided with my vehicle.

Any thoughts?
 
I show 1L2Z-7G391-AE for the 2003. 1L2Z-7G391-AE was replaced by 1L2Z-7G391-AG.

Note that the OP has/had a 1st gen, which had the 5R55N
 
I am in the middle of this build myself. I ran into a weird situation. The replacement drain plug is shorter (1.42) than the original I stripped. The dealer says its the correct part and that ford changed it in 2007. Can anyone verify this? This would make the drain plug the same across all the 5r55s transmissions, I thought the LS and Thunderbirds had the taller drain plugs to account for the extra fluid in their torque converters.
 
I am in the middle of this build myself. I ran into a weird situation. The replacement drain plug is shorter (1.42) than the original I stripped. The dealer says its the correct part and that ford changed it in 2007. Can anyone verify this? This would make the drain plug the same across all the 5r55s transmissions, I thought the LS and Thunderbirds had the taller drain plugs to account for the extra fluid in their torque converters.
2006 LS btw..
 
Everything went smooth with the job. That top 10mm bolt is a bear, the stubby wrench is a must and it really needs to be 3 3/4 or less.
A few differences I had with the instructions.
2006 LS
1. No reverse pressure switch.
2. No upper fill plug.
 

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