How difficult or easy is it to replace the serpentine belt on a 2001 V-8. What tools are needed and is there anywhere I can get a schematic of how it goes on, I just want to make sure I put on right. Will the quality of it vary if I get from the dealer as compared to NAPA or Autozone? Thanks.
Replacing serpentine belt?
- Thread starter phantom3
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Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
easy.
you need to remove the air intake tube to get access to it - socket and a screwdriver. http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/AirCleanerOutletPipeV8/
then use a 3/8" breaker bar - insert it into the idler pulley and twist to the passenger's side to relieve tension. The belt should just slip off.
you need to remove the air intake tube to get access to it - socket and a screwdriver. http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/AirCleanerOutletPipeV8/
then use a 3/8" breaker bar - insert it into the idler pulley and twist to the passenger's side to relieve tension. The belt should just slip off.
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
not sure on the year to year differences but, at work i had to do a belt on a gen 1 (i think) LS and it sucked, there was a entire mess of crap infront of the crank pulley you gotta snake the belt through, also make sure the car is cold
lincoln4182
LVC Member
It's easy. I just replaced my 2001 LS V8 last week. First remove the liner/cover on top of the engine fan that gave me more room. use a 3/8" breaker bar on belt tensioner to slip the belt off. Then loose belt tensioner to help sliding the belt out.
Stopsign002
Dedicated LVC Member
Is this the same for a 2006? Also, will I be able to do this easy enough with my car lowered, or do you have to get under the car at all?
Stopsign002
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks Joegr. After many cuts and some improvised tools I've got the belt around all the accessories... but cant seem to get it onto the tensioner. I am totally not mechanic material lol. Any suggestions? I got the old belt off by slipping it between the tensioner and the engine body but I cant seem to manage to make that work in reverse...
Oh, and I dont have a torque wrench and have never used one. If its required I will learn, but if I can get away without getting/using one that would be nice lol. ANY TIPS ARE HELPFUL!
Also, the reason Im doing this is because last night on the way home my car started doing the "Hey I'm a LS so I freak out when my power levels are low" stuff. When I would accelerate it was just fine, but when the engine was lower rpms it would freak out. I figured this was sort of the same thing my power steering was doing so I thought this might also be belt related. It happened with my lights on and such, when my power drain would be maximum. Any thoughts on that?
Oh, and I dont have a torque wrench and have never used one. If its required I will learn, but if I can get away without getting/using one that would be nice lol. ANY TIPS ARE HELPFUL!
Also, the reason Im doing this is because last night on the way home my car started doing the "Hey I'm a LS so I freak out when my power levels are low" stuff. When I would accelerate it was just fine, but when the engine was lower rpms it would freak out. I figured this was sort of the same thing my power steering was doing so I thought this might also be belt related. It happened with my lights on and such, when my power drain would be maximum. Any thoughts on that?
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Are you using a socket wrench in the square hole to move the tensioner in so you can slip the belt over it? It might also be easier for you to slip the belt over the tensioner pulley, then use another smooth pulley to slide the belt over. That gives you a little hand separation to work with. Put the belt over every pulley but one that you can easily get to, put the socket wrench into the square hole, twist the tensioner in (it'll only go one way) then slide the belt over the other pulley.
Stopsign002
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks guys. I got it. Ends up my alternator is dieing. My car will run without the AC or stereo on, but once I turn that on I have just a few minutes. As much of a pain as that was I'm glad I did it anyway because the old belt was looking pretty shoddy. The alternator appears to be a HUGE pain in the ass to get to (looks like it might be easier from the bottom of the car?) so I'm going to take it to my mechanic tomorrow. Thanks for the info and help guys
jmeecer
Active LVC Member
Hate to bring revive such an old thread, but here it goes. My factory serpentine belt on my 2002 LS V8 needs to be replaced and I was going to go ahead and replace the two idler pulleys, and either the complete tensioner or the tensioner pulley.
Have part numbers for the idlers then I saw and read the TSB 8-16-05 for a revised idler pulley. Based on the diagram in that TSB, I am somewhat confused on why you have to remove the tensioner to replace the idler pulley? Does that revised idler pulley replace the pulley on the tensioner or one of the other two idler pulleys (flange and unflange)? Just trying to make sure I order the correct parts.
As always thanks everyone.
Have part numbers for the idlers then I saw and read the TSB 8-16-05 for a revised idler pulley. Based on the diagram in that TSB, I am somewhat confused on why you have to remove the tensioner to replace the idler pulley? Does that revised idler pulley replace the pulley on the tensioner or one of the other two idler pulleys (flange and unflange)? Just trying to make sure I order the correct parts.
As always thanks everyone.
Last edited:
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I don't have a 1st gen, so what I say should be considered suspect...
I believe that the pulley on the tensioner is the same part as the idler pulley that is item #2 in post #2. Of course, my memory on this could be wrong.
That said, it's probably safer to replace the whole tensioner assembly as the spring may be getting weak by now.
I believe that the pulley on the tensioner is the same part as the idler pulley that is item #2 in post #2. Of course, my memory on this could be wrong.
That said, it's probably safer to replace the whole tensioner assembly as the spring may be getting weak by now.
jmeecer
Active LVC Member
So I need to get the revised pulley for # 2 (to replace the older unflange version), the #8 flanged and a new tensioner (and hope it has the revised pulley), and the belt 
Thanks you, there goes another $150, just spent $400 for new upper rear control arms (ball joint boots busted). I also went ahead and ordered all new nut and bolts to replace everything rear suspension part in the future, if I need to,...need to order the rear lower arms sometime soon too, starting to squeak (TMC...I guess). So far, the rear sway bar end links and strut rods are still in good shape, but have the nut and bolts all ready ordered for future replacement. Replaced entire front end in early 2015 OUCH! Still have some nut and bolts left over from that job that I can use on the back like those HARD to get shock bolts have 2 left!
Thanks you, there goes another $150, just spent $400 for new upper rear control arms (ball joint boots busted). I also went ahead and ordered all new nut and bolts to replace everything rear suspension part in the future, if I need to,...need to order the rear lower arms sometime soon too, starting to squeak (TMC...I guess). So far, the rear sway bar end links and strut rods are still in good shape, but have the nut and bolts all ready ordered for future replacement. Replaced entire front end in early 2015 OUCH! Still have some nut and bolts left over from that job that I can use on the back like those HARD to get shock bolts have 2 left!