Replacing cooling components (genII V8)

Lincoln LS

  1. SoulSoak

    SoulSoak Dedicated LVC Member

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    So I have decided it's time go ahead and finally replace all the plastic cooling pieces to my '03 LS8. I Have gotten a general parts list from Choco in this thread.

    http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?76454-Engine-overheat

    "Degas bottle
    Upper radiator hose
    Lower radiator hose
    Thermostat housing
    Thermostat housing cover
    Thermostat
    Small host that goes from upper radiator hose to dccv (AutoZone 5 bucks)
    2 Small hides ontop of thermostat housing (AutoZone 5 bucks)
    Hose that goes from degas bottle to the connector (AutoZone 8 bucks)
    Thermostat rubber washers x2
    Thermostat cover washer "

    Now my main concern is the fact that I don't want to be half way through this procedure and need to order more parts and pieces. I'd assume that the "seals" that I need to replace are specific to the Lincoln LS.. or are these "seals" that everyone refers to a generic sized o-ring seal that I can pick up at autozone? And by "seals" I'm referring to the comment people make on overheating threads "you need to replace the plastic cooling parts and the various seals as well".

    I just want to be sure I have everything I need before I tackle this. Also I'm aware that there are 926 million "overheating" threads raping the LS forum, so I apologize for another contribution. Oh and just because I may be asked, I've owned my LS for only 1700miles, and it overheated (needle read 10oclock position, about 3/4 on temp) and I've only used the car to commute to work which is 2miles each way. Car barely gets to operating temp, and has never overheated but that one time. Anyhow I'm ready to fix this because I want the peace of mind before I really drive her.

    So yeah, if you guys could give me some insight on this "seals" question, and/or just some input to help me be sure I've acquired all the parts I need before I do the install, I'd greatly appreciate it.

    God bless you all and goodnight!!
     
  2. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    You also need the plastic pipe that runs from the water pump/block to the thermostat housing/cross over pipe. Please note that you probably want to get the two intake manifold gaskets too, because you have to take the intake manifold off to replace that bottom pipe. (There's a way around taking it off, but it is more work than taking the manifold off.)
    There are a number of threads with parts lists that include the seals. Here's one of them.
    http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?77940-Coolant-Hoses-Total-Cost
    Also, go on FordPartsGiant.com select Lincoln, LS, 2003, V8, engine, and cooling system to get exploded drawings and parts lists.
     
  3. SoulSoak

    SoulSoak Dedicated LVC Member

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    As always, thanks joe you rock dude. I will make my own parts list from fordpartsgiant and order most of them from rock auto. Thanks again
     
  4. SoulSoak

    SoulSoak Dedicated LVC Member

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    One quick question, I'm about to order some parts and was wondering.. is Fordpartsgiant.com a good source for quality parts? Or just a good source for part numbes? If it's a good source for parts, I may just order from them. Thanks again, and HUGE thanks Joe for that link, got all the part numbers I need.
     
  5. LS4me

    LS4me Dedicated LVC Member

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    Rock Auto is generally cheaper.........
     
  6. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    It's a good source for quality parts. It is usually not the least expensive source.
     
  7. SoulSoak

    SoulSoak Dedicated LVC Member

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    Hey joe could you tell me what the part number to that piece of pipe you're referring to is? (pipe that runs from waterpump to t/o housing.) Thanks man

    My part list.. (not sure if the pipe you're referring to is in my list)

    Hoses/Assy

    8548a
    8548b
    8592
    9N499
    8575
    8260
    8286a
    18472

    Seals

    8A511(cap)
    HR1
    8255a x2
    8255b
    8590
    9439
     
  8. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    You have it there, it's 9N499 (9Z-9N499-AC).
     
  9. SoulSoak

    SoulSoak Dedicated LVC Member

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    Alright thanks man. Oh and I left out the upper/lower radiator hoses as well as the degas tank. Any recommendation as to where to get a top quality degas tank? Thanks!
     
  10. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    OEM (Motorcraft) only. The Doorman tank is crap.
     
  11. SoulSoak

    SoulSoak Dedicated LVC Member

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    Alright thanks !! Hey one thing I to mention, just for the heck of it I turned my heat on 90degrees because I know I will have to do this in the bleeding process after I install my new parts, and I get no heat from the vents. Also I checked my degas tank and I can see condensation in it but there appears to be no coolant visible(I know this isn't good). My question is.. Can low coolant cause the heat not to work properly? Because if coolant level has no impact on whether the heat works or not, then I'd like to replace and/or fix the part that could be the cause of this while I have everything apart to replace coolant plastics. Thanks for your time and help
     
  12. jjcool00

    jjcool00 Dedicated LVC Member

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    Interesting quote there... added a 7308275 lol. As far as I know - and I'm no expert... heat is generated by the heater core, which coolant passes through. So I would assume that yes, coolant level would have an affect on the heat. The correct bleed procedure is done with the degas completely filled. So I would follow it step by step, filling the degas completely, filling the engine fill cap, etc. etc. etc.
     
  13. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    Yes, low coolant will definitely stop the heater from working. Even when you get it filled, the heat won't work until you have correctly bled the system.

    You could still have other problems, like the DCCV and/or the aux pump. You really need to fix the rest of the cooling system before you can tell.
     
  14. SoulSoak

    SoulSoak Dedicated LVC Member

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    Thank you both, I will update the thread again once I've done the install. God bless
     
  15. SoulSoak

    SoulSoak Dedicated LVC Member

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    CAM00004.jpg
    CAM00003.jpg

    Can someone identify this part for me? it's connected to the metal structure directly in front of the intake manifold. This part is very rusty and looks terrible, it has a metal line that runs from it down under the intake manifold. It also has wiring harness clipped to the top of it. If it's cheap to replace I may just add it to my parts list because I'm ordering everything today. Thanks

    CAM00004.jpg

    CAM00003.jpg
     
  16. LS4me

    LS4me Dedicated LVC Member

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    Looks like the bottom of the EGR valve....
     
  17. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    That's the EGR valve. It's not cheap. It's normal to have the iron part of it rust, just like the exhaust manifolds. (Just like them, it has hot exhaust gases going through it.) I promise that the rusty part won't be what fails.

    Now, that you've found it, you will need to disconnect that exhaust tube screwed into it to be able to replace the 9N499 part.
    You can remove the throttle body and loosen the intake manifold, or you can leave the throttle body on the intake and take the intake off. Either way, you have to disconnect that exhaust tube. BTW, you'll also need the tool to disconnect the fuel line at the fuel rail.
     
  18. SoulSoak

    SoulSoak Dedicated LVC Member

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    Thanks Joe, couple questions though.

    1: I'm assuming by "exhaust tube", you're referring to the metal tube approx. 3\4" diameter and looks to be of brass, running downward underneath the intake manifold correct? And if this is correct, do I just use a crescent wrench and loosen it until it's free?

    2: Is this line I'm pointing to in the picture below the fuel line? And if so, is the special tool I need to disconnect it something I can rent from AutoZone? Also, any specific tips or comments pertaining to disconnecting the fuel line that I should know before doing so? Thanks again.
    CAM00005.jpg

    CAM00005.jpg
     
  19. SoulSoak

    SoulSoak Dedicated LVC Member

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    I'm having difficulty finding parts on rockauto, so I'm just going to use Fordpartsgiant. One thing to mention however, the degas tank on fordpartsgiant is outrageous at $150. Can anyone provide me with a source to a motorcraft replacement degas tank of a better price? Thanks
     
  20. jjcool00

    jjcool00 Dedicated LVC Member

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    $150 sounds about right... the crappy Dorman can be had for half but you'll replace it again and soon... I PROMISE!
     
  21. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    Yep, $150 is about what they run.
    1. Yes, that line. You're wrench will have to be narrow to fit in there. You may want to remove the fuel pressure sensor to avoid the chance of hitting it with the wrench handle and breaking it.
    2. Yes, that's the disconnect. There's no need to rent the tool. It should be less then $5, or for less than $15 you can get a good set that includes all the other sizes that you might need one day.
     
  22. SoulSoak

    SoulSoak Dedicated LVC Member

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    Alright.. I got my parts on the way. $414 worth, damn who would of thought rubber and plastic would be so expensive lol. And I didn't even order everything on my list, that would have ran me almost $700!!

    Regardless, I'm excited to do some surgery. I will update later, parts will be a week.
     
  23. SoulSoak

    SoulSoak Dedicated LVC Member

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    CAM00006.jpg

    Ohhh yeahhh... Coolant system overhaul here we go!!! Now I just gotta find some time. Once I do, and get this done, I'll update. God bless

    CAM00006.jpg
     
  24. RigsLS

    RigsLS Dedicated LVC Member

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    Note that the Thermostat only fit in one way, there's a release valve pin that has to align when it closes on the top part.
    at least so it was on my 01 LS, JAG housing, OEM stat.
     
  25. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    The Gen II thermostat is not at all like the gen I. Unfortunately, there are a number of ways to get it wrong. (BTW, the air release valve is part of the housing, not the thermostat, on gen II.)

    http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x33007.htm~gen~ref.htm
     

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