Rear Wheel Stud Replacement Help

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lsbit

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I can't seem to find a place to fit the new stud in for the rear passenger wheel. I have "modified" the dust shield to try to find a place up top, but the hub seems to be in the way every place I try. It seems that I have to "press" the hub out or something complicated.

Quik?? Have you replaced a rear stud? If so what spot did you use to get the new one in? I am about to get out the die grinder.

I need to get this done so I can get my Mustang in the garage to replace the clutch cable. I am without vehicle....
 
yes i have - several of them. The rears on my were easy - I simply spun the hud so the back of the stud clear the dust shield and then tapped it out with a hammer.

the front studs are more difficult - as the dust shield covers almost the entire back of the rotor.
 
I got it. Dangit. Never try to short-cut it. I removed the caliper and rotor and fanagled it in. My fronts might not be too bad as I can remove the dust shield with three bolts now. :) You have to drill out the rivets in order to replace the ball joints.

Oh...and getting the old one out was very easy. It was trying to find room to get the new one in.

Thanks Quik.
 
you can get it in without removing the caliper on the rears. just play with it a bit and a few curse words and it will quit being stubborn. just a heads up for future reference because i have had to replace about 4 of them now on the rear.
 
Dead President said:
you can get it in without removing the caliper on the rears. just play with it a bit and a few curse words and it will quit being stubborn. just a heads up for future reference because i have had to replace about 4 of them now on the rear.
Click to expand...

The one that broke on mine was way too easy to snap. This is the first wheel stud I had ever broken. I had to TORQUE the hell out of them on other cars in the past, especially in Michigan with my winter beater cars. They must be soft by design... Hmmmm....
 
you know there isnt pics on here about removing the caliper.. do you need to release the brake line to get it off? it looks like 4 bolts? its actually bolted onto the suspension? and i cannot get that bolt off for anything.. same way threaded or is it reverse..


sorry for all the questions.. im new at this and want to have a car to get to work tommorow.. its rainy.. dark and ohio.. need i say more..

thanks,

matt
 
You only have to remove 2 bolts to take off the rear calipers. 2 more bolts to take off the caliper mounts. I don't remeber what size they are but the 2 bolts are on each side of the caliper.
 
ok well .. i took off all 4 bolts becuase the mount had to come off too in order to get the rotor off.. this was quite a learning experience because i was in the dark.. no garage.. apartment parking lot with flash light.. sockets and a regular hammer.. very ghetto..

anyways i got them replaced and i put on new tire, rim, 5 lug studs and 5 lug nuts.. all b/c advanced auto sold me the wrong lug nuts and they ruined my rim causing the tire to vibrate at 80mpg and busting 3 lug studs..

$5.99 adv auto lugs
$200 17" alloy rim
$150 tire
$5.50 x 5 lug nuts
$4.24 x 5 lug studs
1 hour of work

all becuase of a computer mess up with their specs on the LS.. no good...lol

next thing is i could release the caliper piston.. my buddy said i should just use a c-clamp and put a pad on it and twist until its flush and slide it on.. this sounds pretty ghetto and forceful.. is this right?


thanks everyone,
matt
 
TiziteLayinLow said:
next thing is i could release the caliper piston.. my buddy said i should just use a c-clamp and put a pad on it and twist until its flush and slide it on.. this sounds pretty ghetto and forceful.. is this right?
Click to expand...

That is how I do it and did it last night when replacing my front brakes. The rear calipers need a tool to rotate the piston while pushing in. It can be rented from Autozone. They sell cheap versions of the tool also. This is due to parking brake design.
 
TiziteLayinLow said:
this was quite a learning experience because i was in the dark.. no garage.. apartment parking lot with flash light.. sockets and a regular hammer.. very ghetto..
Click to expand...
I feel your pain--been there, done that. When I was in college, the first car I bought had an AutoZone "Lifetime Warranty" starter that would spontaneously disassemble itself every now and then. I had to reassemble it one night in the parking lot of a friend's apartment.
TiziteLayinLow said:
all b/c advanced auto sold me the wrong lug nuts and they ruined my rim causing the tire to vibrate at 80mpg
Click to expand...
Hell, I'd pay for the vibration if I could get 80mpg in my LS. :D
TiziteLayinLow said:
next thing is i could release the caliper piston.. my buddy said i should just use a c-clamp and put a pad on it and twist until its flush and slide it on.. this sounds pretty ghetto and forceful.. is this right?
Click to expand...
Nope, this is bad advice. Buy or rent the proper tool for this job.
 
SoonerLS said:
I feel your pain--been there, done that. When I was in college, the first car I bought had an AutoZone "Lifetime Warranty" starter that would spontaneously disassemble itself every now and then. I had to reassemble it one night in the parking lot of a friend's apartment.

Hell, I'd pay for the vibration if I could get 80mpg in my LS. :D

Nope, this is bad advice. Buy or rent the proper tool for this job.
Click to expand...

A c-clamp works just fine (on the front), just use your one of your old pads to protect the caliper piston.
 
ok well i used a wrench to twist the piston clockwise until it was recessed enough to get the caliper on. I got it on.. matched the grooves as where they were when i took it off and bolted the caliper back on..

i got in the car and pressed the brakes and nothing.. "check advancetrack" on the screen and absolutely no brakes .. pedal to the floor.. i tried to pump to build up some pressure with no luck either.

is there something im missing?

thanks in advance,
matt
 
also.. do the clips on the brake pads go inside the caliper.. or press together and push threw the hole in the caliper?


also.. should i need to bleed the brakes after reseting the piston?

thanks
 
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