Rear wheel bearing?

myfirstls

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Aloha guys. Now that my LS is back to norm (actually, far from it but no CEL or any other warning light), want to check on something that's been bothering me from about 3000 miles ago.

I have what it sound like propeller plane from the rear of the car. From what I searched, narrowed it down to rear wheel bearing, pinion bearing (I think that's what is called) or center shaft bearing. My LS only have 61,000 miles on it. What will be the most likely cause for this noise? If this information matter, I need to replace my rear upper control arm (rubber boot are torn on both side), both toe-link and sway-bar link (which I already have). These are on my to-do list, but I haven't be able to find the parts I need. All of the front are changed except lower control arm.

BTW, car is 2004 LS V-8.
 
Jack it up, remove wheel, slowly spin the hub and try and feel for resistance. It would feel and sound grindy if it's bad. You should easily feel this in your hand as your turning it. You could also try and rock it back and forth quickly, if it's totally shot it'll have some play.

9 out of ten times it's the right side of the vehicle as apposed to the left, due in fact that's the side all the road crap is on including dirt dust snow slush and salt. Ever notice right side parts cost a few dollars more compared to left side parts ... now you know why.

And yes, not much snow slush salt where you are from but the right side still rides the garbage line. AKA the Mayo line.
 
Aloha guys. Now that my LS is back to norm (actually, far from it but no CEL or any other warning light), want to check on something that's been bothering me from about 3000 miles ago.

I have what it sound like propeller plane from the rear of the car. From what I searched, narrowed it down to rear wheel bearing, pinion bearing (I think that's what is called) or center shaft bearing. My LS only have 61,000 miles on it. What will be the most likely cause for this noise? If this information matter, I need to replace my rear upper control arm (rubber boot are torn on both side), both toe-link and sway-bar link (which I already have). These are on my to-do list, but I haven't be able to find the parts I need. All of the front are changed except lower control arm.

BTW, car is 2004 LS V-8.

My '06 had what sounded like a wheel bearing failing. Turned out to be the pinion bearing. That was almost a $900 repair foe a $45 bearing! The majority of the cost was labour...
 
Thanks guys. Guess I have a project coming on my next day-off.

So, my understanding is that if my car doesn't have any movement at the hub, or feel anything when I turn my wheel, chances are it's my pinion bearing. Hopefully, it's not that. Although I can probably work on that thing, it's much more PITA if it's indeed pinion bearing.

Crossing my finger..............
 
Thanks guys. Guess I have a project coming on my next day-off.

So, my understanding is that if my car doesn't have any movement at the hub, or feel anything when I turn my wheel, chances are it's my pinion bearing. Hopefully, it's not that. Although I can probably work on that thing, it's much more PITA if it's indeed pinion bearing.

Crossing my finger..............

From what I understand the the sub-frame must be lowered to replace the bearing. I believe that's correct as the diff is bolted to the sub-frame. It's quite the time consuming operation!
 
Myfirstls,

The wheel DOES need to come off. Spin hub by hand to see/feel griddy grindy bumpy rotations. If it is a bad wheel bearing you'll know it once you turn and spin that hub ... you have to have it jacked up and wheel off to do this properly.

I'm not saying it is but to rule out a bad hub bearing, perform the above mentioned process.

If it spins nice and smoothly, quietly then it's not the hub that is causing your noise.
 
Use a large straight blade screwdiver as a stethoscope. Jack the car up... start it up,,, and put it in low gear, (if you have sst mode). If not,,, have a buddy ride the brake so the tranny doesn't upshift. Use the scewdriver to probe around, (VERY carefully), at both rear hubs and the pinion. A bad bearing will give off a growling/rumbling sound. This holds true for any bearing.

The rear hub bearings are replaceable... but a bit tricky. The easy expensive way is to replace the whole knuckle for about $800. The cheap hard way is to buy the bearings from Rock Auto,,, and know somebody with a press. Warning!!! It will take a torch to heat the aluminum housing to get the bearing out... but not too much heat. The bearing presses out one way,,, and the hub presses out the other. Same in reverse for assembly. Make sure you do this in proper order,,, or you may end up ruining the new bearing. At minimum beyond bearing replacement... you will also need new retaining nuts for the rear axle/axles.

If noise is in the pinion/diff, (which I doubt), you just need to take it to a shop you trust. I had a rear hub bearing go on my 04 at about 85k. Parts for both sides were less than $100 total back in 2012,,, but the labor was a bit intensive. Again... do one side,,, do both.
 
I'm just finishing this up. Using a press and slap hammer the bearing came apart. Notched the race on the hub with a cut-off wheel and cold chiseled it off. Getting the ramains of the bearing out of the knuckle was a bear. Ended up heating the whole knuckle in the oven (330F for an hour). I was then able to press the remains of the bearing out. Next the knuckle went in the oven (330F) while the bearing went in the freezer. This allowed the bearing to practically drop into the knuckle, one or two pumps after positioning on the press and the bearing dropped in. Next the knuckle and bearing went into the oven (set at 180F so I didn't upset the grease) with the hub in the freezer. Slight pressing brought the hub home and I was done. I was installing today when the rains came so I'll finish Wednesday night after work.
 
Thanks for all the input guys.

I do have 12-ton? ( I don't remember how strong at this point) press at home, so I'll be tackling the project myself. I'll try take much pictures as I can.

Yeah, those Aluminum parts need heat to do any press job. I have older (early 80s') Kawasaki bike, so I know. Used to heat up the head on stove when I was younger to remove the valve stems.

In any case, if it's wheel bearing, I'll post it here. If not, oh well.

Wish me luck, guys.
 
I was a bad boy and never changed my rear diff fluid so its original... 255K. Plus occasional nitrous use its still fine. I actually wanted it to die so I could put it my t-loc diff. Sadly this probably wont happen.

For me, it was a wheel bearing (driver side). Replaced it with a Timken and it died a year later. I had another Timken slated for the passenger side but I used it for the driver again. Its been fine since, 3 years later (60k miles or so). Get it lifted up and properly secured and use a real stethoscope. The guy that did mine had me get in and put it in drive on the lift though I'd shy away from that if you're in your driveway.
 

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