Questions on when rebuilding IRS 8.8 housings...

Stangman

Stangman

Project car a.d.d.
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Since my Mark Viii isnt my daily anymore.. I want to put a trac-lok and 4.10's in it... I have a trac lok, but needs a 4.10. But my question is, What kind of preload does the carrier need since it's in an aluminum housing? I've heard that it has to be more than a regular cast iron solid axle housing... I've got a buddy who'd do it for me for free, he's just never did an IRS housing.

Any other differences I should warn him about?

He's done the gear/axle in his '89 mustang several times when he changes things so I'm confident he can do it.

Thanks
 
I dont know that a set of gears has any idea whether it's in a solid housing or an IRS housing.

I cant see why there would be any difference in bearing preload either.
 
I was told by a Ford tech that the aluminum housings have a lot thicker shims in them because the housing can expand... It sounded a little far fetched but I figured I'd atleast ask the experts that have done it on here...

I can't wait to get this biotch back together after fixing the front end and drag race this thing!
 
Hopefully this will help and hopefully I downloaded the correct file. wrong pic sorry retry.

89058221.gif
 
Thanks for the info!

Yeah when that gets done maybe the rearend will stop leaking!! :lol: And maybe my ABS will work again!!

So when doing a gear swap... What speedo gear will be needed for a 4.10 or even a 3.73? (incase I cant find a 4.10)

I have an '03 GT trans in my lincoln, and all the parts were swapped that needed to be swapped so everything is correct for its current configuation...
 
Stangman said:
I was told by a Ford tech that the aluminum housings have a lot thicker shims in them because the housing can expand... It sounded a little far fetched but I figured I'd atleast ask the experts that have done it on here...

I can't wait to get this biotch back together after fixing the front end and drag race this thing!
Click to expand...

This is fairly close to the truth.

You need to spread the case .030" on the aluminum housing to properly set the bearing preload. I built my own spreader, as the the Ford/Rotunda spreader is mucho $$$.

If you don't use a spreader, the shade-tree method is to set the preload, and then jam an additional .010" to .015" of shims in each side.

Spreader.gif
 
DLF said:
This is fairly close to the truth.

You need to spread the case .030" on the aluminum housing to properly set the bearing preload. I built my own spreader, as the the Ford/Rotunda spreader is mucho $$$.

If you don't use a spreader, the shade-tree method is to set the preload, and then jam an additional .010" to .015" of shims in each side.
Click to expand...

Then take the additional shims out afterwards correct?
 
wow i didn`t now this ok sence we are talking about this rears how much labor is involve to do this if some had every thing ready to go.
 
laserp viii said:
wow i didn`t now this ok sence we are talking about this rears how much labor is involve to do this if some had every thing ready to go.
Click to expand...

Define "ready to go".

Diff out of the car? Already disassembled and cleaned?

Are you asking how much I'd charge?

When I do a diff, I change everything. All new races, bearings, and seals. Not worth taking a chance on not replacing the relatively inexpensive parts.

If you want me to do it, send me a PM wth all the info.
 
DLF built my rear, put a 1000 + miles on it so far so good. He does nice work and im very happy with it...and sometimes the 97 will chirp the tires shifting into 3rd... @ WOT... @ 75mph with the 4.10s.. :)
 
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