Power wire and fusible links

97MarkJA

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About a year ago I went through some issues when the alternator went bad on my 97, I went through 3 bad parts store reman alts in a row that were bad and finally went to a ford unit from tousley while I waited for my 220 amp unit to arrive.
In the process I discovered that the ground cable to the block was getting hot, the "big 3" were factory. I took the factory ground off and replaced it with a true 4ga cable, problem solved. Kinda.. I did cut open the factory cable to see what they used and it was green about 18" up the cable. I wouldn't call it 4ga maybe more like 6.
I still noticed a voltage drop the longer the car ran even with the system off and minimal accessories running; quicker if you had everything on. I blamed it on a newish battery which did turn out to have a bad cell, replaced it with a large optima; problem solved? Better but not solved.
I've been preping the car for paint and it was raining a bit the other night and got to looking at the rest of the set up, now.. I've done car electronics for over 20 years and wrote a lot of the content they used in the original mecp test for installers, I'm not saying I know everything or am the best but I am confident I wouldn't do things like this.
No way, no how.
The wire that runs from the factory alt and I forget the rating.. 120/130 amp is at best 6ga which goes to a 12ga fusible link and has at best 2 12ga fusible link wires coming out of it; with a loop to the alt sense wire. This thing is on the stud of the under hood fuse box which has the wire to the battery (even smaller) boarder line 8ga.
I won't hardly run 8ga for a big amp, certainly nothing I'm going to put a 60 amp fuse in (which is the largest in our box) not to mention the rest of them.
I know the amp rating says it ok but when it comes to power I lean to the overkill side of things.
In the pictures you will see the fusible links and where they got hot at one point, the factory alt wire, the factory power wire for the fuse box. From right to left on the battery terminal you'll see the factory power wire to the fuse panel, the 4ga I put in to the alt, and the factory starter wire. You can see the size difference and you will see what 1/0 looks like in comparison.
Don't mind all the dust from sanding..
I'll be redoing everything back to the factory routing with upgraded wire, I had purchased everything to move the batteries (x2) to the trunk. I'm tempted to just rewire it and leave it in the front after seeing what they used, with the new wire it may be much better.
Does anyone know what amp rating the fusible link was from the factory?
60 is the largest fuse in the box under the hood but I can't see it being less than what the alt was rated for. Could be wrong though.

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The Mark VIII electrical troubleshooting manual confirms your description about the fusible links. There are two 12ga ( Gray wire) leading into the fuse box and one 20ga (Blue wire spliced onto a Yellow wire) leading back to the alternator.

Unfortunately, the troubleshooting manuals does not identify fuse link current rating.

The David Navonne adopted competition wire appendix (used in the major soundoff sanctioning bodies) states that a 20ga wire that is 4 feet or less can handle as much as 10 ampere safely and a 12ga wire that is 4 feet or less can safely handle between 26 amp to 50 ampere of current. I would consider the vehicles fuse link current rating to be on the lower end of the scale since high engine compartment temperature would contribute to the fusible wire link internal temp melting capacity. So it is safe to assume that each of the 12ga fuse wire will handle 30amp each based on the largest fuse in the fuse box. If the wire jacket appears blistered, the link may have gotten too hot and may be compromised.

Before you do the pull test, have a replacement fuse link wire handy if not, then a couple of spliced 30 amp slo-blow fuse may take its place.

Check the link condition by pulling it apart between its end and the splice. If you feel the wire come apart, then you'll know that the wire inside was bad. Its time to replace.


With a 220 ampere alternator set to arrive soon, what are you planning for a system?

What is the maximum current consumption do you expect from your amplifiers?

I've seen and judged competition systems more than anyone here and when it comes to the big 3 upgrades, many are satisfactory for small to medium systems. Larger systems I have seen using upgraded alternators require better wiring methods to minimize voltage drops.


-Ren
 
Funny you mention David, I know both David and Richard personally.
The 220 amp alt is already in the car as well as the system. I'm more worried about the 3 fuel pumps going in. With a possible load of 35 amps each.
 
Why would you need 3 fuel pumps to paint your car?
:)

The factory setup is horrible ....hot=fire.....fire=bad.
Bad math.
 
3 fp's? Good gawd.

What a confusing mess though. I already did the grounds for my b3 but still have to find a good fuse holder/location for the alt to battery.
 
hey 97 the fuseiable link the yello/ blue wires that ur holding in the top picture is what i was talking about
 
hey 97 the fuseiable link the yello/ blue wires that ur holding in the top picture is what i was talking about

The fusible link are the white wires. The yellow wire is the alt sense wire. The blue loop is just how the connected it.
 
what did you run that big blue wire to .

I'm assuming thats the wire he used for his " big 3".

Sidetrack...

I must say that the big 3 helped me greatly this winter. Quite a difference compared to years past. Maintaining 14v+, little to no dimming and cured a hvac issue I had when it was below 30 degrees.

For anyone that would like to utilize the stock system to its fullest potential I highly recommend this.
 

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