Oil Pan Repaint (picture heavy)

JMiles_T

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This isn't a project I was looking forward to, but I decided I'd better get it over with before the days get any colder. For anyone who's in a similar situation, hopefully these pictures will give you some insight on what you'll be in for.

I started Sunday afternoon, and got everything bolted back together Monday night.
rust.jpg

UCA.jpg

LCA.jpg

belt.jpg

altbracket.jpg

altbolt.jpg

brace.jpg

brace2.jpg

bracenchains.jpg

screws.jpg

As you can see, I fastened the chains to the alternator bolts. They are screwed all the way back in to keep the stress on the bolts (and my block) to a minimum; these two little bolts will be holding the weight of the engine after all.

jack.jpg

passmount.jpg

drivermount.jpg

E18.jpg
subframe.jpg

strippin.jpg

primed.jpg
black.jpg

panfinished.jpg

It will take several weeks for the enamel to fully cure. The heat from the engine will help a little.

In the meantime, since the enamel is still weak it's not hard to damage your new paint work while you're re-installing the pan, so put something underneath the pan (like cloth) to protect it while you're working then remove it after you've fastened it to the block.

New oil pan gaskets are about $30. Don't skimp out and try to re-use the old one, or you may get to do this again one day.

Pull your oil dipstick before putting the pan back on!

Tip: Rub some dish liquid onto your dry hands before you get started, and it will be easier to wash the dirt off when you finish.
 
That is a very awesome post mang!

I'll be doing this in the future... not looking forward to it, but it's just something you gotta do.
 
how much work underneth is truley involved...how many bolts?...that support did you make it?...
 
A lot Dawkins....

I had 3 bolts spin on my 94 trying to drop the subframe... your done if that happeans...
 
Gotta remove the wheels
8 (E18) subframe bolts
16 (? mm) pan bolts
2 (13mm) motor mount to block bolts
2 (19mm) UCA to spindle pinch bolts (you may have to grab a hammer and knock them loose once the the nut is unscrewed).
2 (24mm or 21mm) LCA to shock bolts

Even with a breaker bar, some of the bolts are going to give you a good workout.

Every single fastener I've found on my Mark VIII are metric.

The hard to reach bolts are the ones you want to avoid stripping at all costs; use the proper sized sockets and make sure they are on the bolts flush before you start twisting . Use penetrating fluid; I like PB Blaster.

You'll need to scrape any leftover gasket material from the pan and the block, and wipe the mating surfaces clean (I used acetone) before re-installation of the pan, or risk leaks (and doing it all over again :yuck: ).

You can disconnect the steering shaft to have an easier time putting the pan back in without damaging your paint job, but I didn't.

The subframe isn't terribly heavy, so you shouldn't have any trouble putting it back on your jack if it slips off. It also balances pretty easily on the jack (assuming you left the steering shaft attached).

Be mindful of stress on your brake lines, and ABS wires.
If you jacked your car up real high, you may not be able to let the subframe rest on the ground unless you disconnect them.

When it's time to fasten the motor mounts to the subframe again, aligning the holes can be tricky (not terribly though).

This is one of those jobs where you ought to take the opportunity to knock out any other troubles that you have with the car. With the subframe down, you can go after motor mounts, the oil filter adapter gasket, leaking steering system, etc.
 
Thanks sounds like quite a task love the bolt size your god...theres a shop by me that sprays the oil pan while its on the car for 50 bucks if that fails then its out with the motor and get i sandblasted...thanks
 
any engine hoist should work, I know here in Dallas texas there are a few places that rent them for $20 a week.
 
16 (? mm) pan bolts
2 (19mm) UCA to spindle pinch bolts (you may have to grab a hammer and knock them loose once the the nut is unscrewed).
2 (24mm or 21mm) LCA to shock bolts

Oil pan bolts are 10mm.
UCA pinch bolts are 18mm.

I don't recall the LCA-strut bolts. The one side with the tab that holds it is 18mm I think, 21mm seems to ring a bell for the other side. Call you dealer and see if they have new bolts for this in stock, as they are the hardest ones to get off imho. I destroyed both mine taking them off and it's not a winter/salt driven car even... When I did mine last time, I marked the upper strut mount and took it off after letting the air out of the bags. You don't have to jack the car up and down so many times as you need to tighten them with the cars weight on the struts, and the top bolts are much easier to get off, it didn't save any time though, just made it easier I thought?!

JMiles has somes good tips there. :)
I stripped one of my pan bolts heads the first time I took it off and it took an hour to fix just that mistake!
There is two holes to line up the sub-frame to the body in between the front 2 bolts. You can use what ever fits in there snug and is long enough to line it up (roughly a 19-20mm bar.)
The power steering hose runs across the front rad frame to and is held on by an 8mm bolt, and 2 8mm bolts on the subframe. I'd take that off to have more play to drop it. Unclip the ABS wires too from their holders. You'll be able to drop it further.
I'd suggest an alignment afterwards, as a good alignment is always good for the car, and moving that many big parts it's doubtful you'll get it exactly right again ;)

Dawkins, you'll not be able to blast much of the pan attached to the car as a lot of it is covered by the sub-frame...
 
Thanks for the complement, though the UCA nuts on my car are definitely 19mm :D.
 
Looked like a real PAIN doing this on the ground in a gravel driveway. :(

Had you given any thought to using a true 2part epoxy paint? You could have put it back on 24hrs latter and it's tuff stuff.
 
That parking spot wasn't always like that; my jackstands have just done a number on the pavement given how many times I've had this car in the air. No complaints from the management yet :shifty:.

As for the epoxy paint, I hadn't considered it. I just used spray can primer and engine enamel, and hoped that it will hold up from the heat and debris from driving.

If the enamel fails, I'll look into it.
 
POR15 is an epoxy based paint, and trust me as long as you apply per there directions it is not going to come off.
 
"Dawkins, you'll not be able to blast much of the pan attached to the car as a lot of it is covered by the sub-frame"

Thanks...bit its where that bracket is welded onto the pan over by the drain plug...theres room there is leaking from the weld so we will see for 50 dollars the guy said id be luckyer to buy a lotto ticket then it to work but ill take the chance if not ill ask mafioso real nicley to do mine
 

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