Oil Pan Drain Plug leak

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350TPI

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I have had a drip coming from the oil pan drain plug leak for quite a while.I have tried many different little o rings on it but it never stops it completely.Do the drain plugs get where they arent effective anymore?Maybe from overtightening?
 
I have the same problem and will try to fix it next time i change the oil. And i think the washer is still there..idk.

Might also consider 1 of these..

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

There are diff kinds from diff manufacters so check em out.
 
I have found that leather washers are the best for drain plugs. I never had any luck with nylon washers or brass/copper washers. You can also use thread tape on the plug to get it to stop.

And to answer your question about does a drain plug lose its strength over time from over tightening, the answer is no.
But, over tightening will surely cause a washer to render itself useless. You do not have to tighten that tight to be effective, just snug it.
 
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I have a friend that owns a lube shop and has for 25 years, he is a certified mechanic. He recommends that the drain plug be replaced as well in most cases as they do wear some. Most times replacing the washer only will not solve the drip so for $5.00 bucks why not do the plug at the same time as the washer. Pretty inexpensive repair and if you are worried about a drip then the $5.00 is well spent.
 
OEM ones and some aftermarket do have an o-ring and no washer of any kind. Don't know what size it is though, sorry. The surface around the drain plug opening needs to be nice for the o-ring...
 
I worked at a Jiffy place for a few years. Not all washers work on all cars. Just buy a new washer&plug from the dealer. As another posted, the old washer may be stuck on the pan.
 
Icarus said:
OEM ones and some aftermarket do have an o-ring and no washer of any kind. Don't know what size it is though, sorry. The surface around the drain plug opening needs to be nice for the o-ring...
Click to expand...

Most common problem with o-rings vs washers is that the o-ring tends to spread and loose its round form from too tight.
 
It was a while ago, but I changed the oil on every car on the road at the time. I do not remember any cars having an oil drain plug oring. All I remember were washers....copper flat, copper crush, fiber, nylon, aluminum, steel...but never an o-ring.
 
beerdog said:
It was a while ago, but I changed the oil on every car on the road at the time. I do not remember any cars having an oil drain plug oring. All I remember were washers....copper flat, copper crush, fiber, nylon, aluminum, steel...but never an o-ring.
Click to expand...

On alot of the new drain plug kits today, they are made of a male and female end. Alot of them have the o-ring at the final thread or neck of the male. But like I said earlier, the o-ring will deform and spread out if over tightened. A leather washer in my opinion is the best. For one it absorbs moisture and retains it, 2 it is shapeable to the two metals when tightened.
 
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beerdog said:
It was a while ago, but I changed the oil on every car on the road at the time. I do not remember any cars having an oil drain plug oring. All I remember were washers....copper flat, copper crush, fiber, nylon, aluminum, steel...but never an o-ring.
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Guess you never did a Mark... The two Marks I've owned and the three brand new oil pans from our cars I've had in my hands, and two friends cars I've changed the oil on all had o-rings and no washers fwiw... Heck even my '93 Escort had an o-ring from the factory...
 
sbcaprice305 said:
I have the same problem and will try to fix it next time i change the oil. And i think the washer is still there..idk.

Might also consider 1 of these..

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

There are diff kinds from diff manufacters so check em out.
Click to expand...

I've had horrible experiences with those working at a lube shop. Plus it takes like 5-10 min for the oil to drain in a jeep compass couldn't imagine our cars. I'd stay away from those.
 
fastmark1993 said:
I've had horrible experiences with those working at a lube shop. Plus it takes like 5-10 min for the oil to drain in a jeep compass couldn't imagine our cars. I'd stay away from those.
Click to expand...

I've never used them but for the diy'er i dont see it being a huge deal. Def less messy from the looks of it. While there letting it drain they can check all the other stuff under the hood, smoke a cig or have a beer.
 
Working in the industry here's my $0.02, I have great luck with the fiber gaskets along with the standard "ford" replacement drain plug. 14x1.50 16mm head.

Many of the new fords use the integrated rubber o-ring at the base, when they go flat they leak, and for whatever reason it always seems that if the ford plug with the integrated gasket becomes overtightened (even a little) then the treads on it become garbage.

dVizM86ajRuaUSA.jpg


The replacements with the standard changeable gaskets are the most forgiving in our application.

Different gaskets for different cars. The 14x1.50 plug is used in a lot of different cars, with different sized wrench heads. Honda's, Kia's, Hyundai, BMW, Audi, Volkswagen, Mercedes.

In my experiences the 14x1.50 plug copper gasket works good on the Ford Diesels, Mercedes, and BMW. Copper crush works good on the Hyundai's and Kia's. The Volkswagen plug has a steel gasket that never comes off, once it's over torqued, or spread to much it's garbage, same with some Audi's.

Honda's and ford's both seem to love the fiber gasket.

The plastic "uni-gasket" is garbage. (Usually blue in color, with small plastic tangs and several rings to 'seal' against the pan, very brittle)

3491765_pby_366302_pri_detl.jpg


The copper "uni-gasket" is garbage. (Usually bright like a penny it is a non-crush copper gasket with an integrated rubber insert to make it "universal", the copper doesn't seal, the rubber ends up taring)

Dorman-097-025-rw-48564-58993.jpg


The steel "uni-gasket" is garbage. (Usually dull brushed metal in appearance, supposed to work just like the copper "uni-gasket", same BS.)

dsc02926_768_detail.jpg
 
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