OEM Rotors/Capilers?


Well-Known LVC Member
Feb 1, 2011
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New Jersey
So I let me LS sit like 4 weeks the powerslot rotors rust like hell and now my brakes are crap. Would it be worth it to just buy OEM rotors? I dont think they rust as badly..

Secondly like 2 weeks of driving later I hear a good light dragging like the pads arent coming off the rotors. Wasnt like this before I let it sit. Coincidentally the rotors are black/overheated like the shop who cuts them for me told me last time.. this is the only car and second LS ive had this issue with. Rear being worse.. I flushed the system out with new SS lines couple months ago. All boots pins greased and good.

Going to get refurb calipers off rock auto to save some money...
Right now your friction material rubbing surfaces are embedded with iron oxide and the rotors pitted so they won't perform normal. You could drive it around more consistently and both surfaces renewed and see how they are. With a high rust condition the pad steelbacks can hangup in the brackets and not fully return. That can clear out, or not. Again, a few days of driving will tell.

Depending the casting alloy despite the common cast iron grade that is normally used in rotors, you can have rotors that rust more then others. I can say my Motorcraft (not OE) rotors develop more rust then my OE Superduty truck rotors do.

At this point in time all you can get are rebuilt calipers. They will all start the same as OE housings, no one but the original supplier casts up housings and sells though the vehicle manufacturer. What varies is who is doing the rebuilding and the steps/parts they use during the rebuilding process.
Yea its been 2 weeks and many miles. The rust was gone pretty quick and i really cleaned/filed/greased the track so the pads wouldnt get stuck. Although I see them getting stuck anyway. Just my experience esp on the rear, the calipers are so hard to turn in I can see them being partially frozen all the time. But Ive never had an OEM rotor rust so fast in humidity.
Rust embedded into friction takes a good while to wear out, but if it's not clearing then you'll have to change.

Turning in the integral parking pistons is always hard, it's not the normal way they are applied when braking, you're screwing them into the parking brake take-up.


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If I could dismantle them myself and fix I would but not sure if that would be as good as a rebuilt pair..

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