New to me Mark VIII and new to the forum

drobs5

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New guy to the forum here .... just picked up a 97 Mark VIII today out of Atlanta and love it so far. It has a few issues that I'd like to fix/correct (pulling to the right when braking, broken cup holder, driver seat not moving front/back, etc) and I will be doing a few upgrades (wheels/tires, lowering, converting back to HID headlights, etc) so I thought I'd introduce myself before just asking questions.

Dusty
Greenville, SC

20140518_193002_zps6bynonnw.jpg
 
Welcome Dusty! You're not too far away from me. I live in Columbia. You ever make it down this way?

I can very likely help you with most (if not all) of the problems you have. :) I do all of my own work, and even make a lot of parts for these cars.
 
I love the color...welcome aboard!!!! get yourself a new drivers side seat track and get that suspension fixed and call it a day.
 
Good for you. The offer from nearby is valuable, as his advice is golden. Car looks great - one of the rare ones with the directionals on correctly. I started you out by thanking you for your first post. This web site actually has manners and protocol. I know, hard to believe, but true.
 
Welcome Dusty! You're not too far away from me. I live in Columbia. You ever make it down this way?

I can very likely help you with most (if not all) of the problems you have. :) I do all of my own work, and even make a lot of parts for these cars.


If your hesitant about doing any of the repairs this is the guy you want to talk to.
 
Welcome Dusty! You're not too far away from me. I live in Columbia. You ever make it down this way?

I can very likely help you with most (if not all) of the problems you have. :) I do all of my own work, and even make a lot of parts for these cars.

GET THE HID HEADLIGHT KIT FROM THIS MAN!^^^ You will NEED an adapter to make any aftermarket kit fit your car! He makes the adapters himself along with modifying the kit to make it specific for your car. Other then that welcome to the forum. Cup holders are notorious for breaking. I'm just now diving headfirst into my front suspension. May want to check the "Does this look safe to drive" thread for part recommendations. Great looking car though man.
 
Welcome Dusty! You're not too far away from me. I live in Columbia. You ever make it down this way?

I can very likely help you with most (if not all) of the problems you have. :) I do all of my own work, and even make a lot of parts for these cars.

Hey man ... my parents live below Orangeburg so I pass through Columbia quite often when I head down to visit them. What are the details on the HID kit you offer??
 
Thanks for the welcome everyone. Below are pics of a few of the problems I'd like to fix somehow eventually.

Scratched up bumper .... looks like the previous owner bumped into something and pushed the bumper up/in a little bit.

20140519_122314_zpsfwcnfw9t.jpg


20140519_122945_zpslikh5abv.jpg


Rear tail light trim sticking out a bit ... not sure whats going on with this

20140519_123041_zpslyurucum.jpg


Crappy rear window molding ... almost didn't buy the car because of this.

20140519_123058_zpshw5njgvy.jpg


Non HID headlights
20140518_205610_zps19sbsswv.jpg


No heat - I assume the blend door isn't working.

Pulls to the right when braking.

Driver seat motor works but seat doesn't move ... I guess the gears are stripped? I will post a video later.

And last but not least, the cup holder is broken.

I'd also like to lower the car a bit but not really sure how to go about that. The previous owner said it has been converted from air ride suspension but I have no clue on the specifics. Hopefully I'll get some time to get her up in the air this weekend and peek around under the car.

One last pic, the 32V v8 .... ftw.

20140519_122930_zpsnbcws4kd.jpg
 
The rear tail light might just be a nut the needs to be tightened or put in.

The rear window seal is a common problem. It is not going to cause it to leak but it does look crappy. There is a repair kit but the best thing is to replace the whole rear window. Here is a good link.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...88-Rear-Window-Trim-Repair-Temple-Performance

Looks like the previous owner got the OEM HIDs replaced with OEM halogen headlights by the look of how new the headlights look. They stopped making our hid bulbs so they started offering these as replacement. These are rare and must have been expensive. But halogens suck. You might just need a aftermarket hid kit and don't probably even need the adapters since yours are OEM halogen headlights.

Blend door... This is an awesome tech article on how to replace it.
http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.or...d-Door-Actuator-Removal-and-Repair-(Write-Up)
 
If your hesitant about doing any of the repairs this is the guy you want to talk to.

GET THE HID HEADLIGHT KIT FROM THIS MAN!^^^ You will NEED an adapter to make any aftermarket kit fit your car! He makes the adapters himself along with modifying the kit to make it specific for your car. Other then that welcome to the forum. Cup holders are notorious for breaking. I'm just now diving headfirst into my front suspension. May want to check the "Does this look safe to drive" thread for part recommendations. Great looking car though man.

Thanks guys! ^^ I always appreciate kind words.

Hey man ... my parents live below Orangeburg so I pass through Columbia quite often when I head down to visit them. What are the details on the HID kit you offer??

Cool! You'll have to stop by some time. It'll be nice to finally have another board member somewhere close. Achesonm8 lives in Charlotte, and he comes down occasionally to work on his car too. I think it's like a 3-hour drive for him.

The HID kit I sell is a full plug-and-play kit that plugs right into the factory plug, and includes a set of adapters that I make, as well as a set of aftermarket HID bulbs and ballasts. I sell the adapters for $50 shipped, and the whole kit (including adapters) for $165 shipped. Although as mentioned above, if you have the Ford Halogen Retrofit Kit, you likely won't need the adapters. The other part of the kit would work for you though, since the factory plug remains.

Thanks for the welcome everyone. Below are pics of a few of the problems I'd like to fix somehow eventually.

Scratched up bumper .... looks like the previous owner bumped into something and pushed the bumper up/in a little bit.
Can't really help you there, but sometimes you'll be able to find one in the junkyard in decent shape for a good price.

Rear tail light trim sticking out a bit ... not sure whats going on with this

As was mentioned above, it may just need to be tightened up. There should be 3 nuts on the inside of the trunk behind the taillight beneath the trunk carpet.

Crappy rear window molding ... almost didn't buy the car because of this.

Unfortunately, there's not really a GOOD fix for this, short of getting a replacement window. Temple Performance sells a kit that might help you, and would be worth checking out. It'll help with the ripples, but if the rubber is dry-rotted, it won't work. Some people have actually cut the edge of the rubber off, with decent results, but it depends on how it looks as is.
Non HID headlights

The headlights look to be in really good shape, and if they are the retrofit kit headlights, then they're actually pretty rare/expensive. The last price that Ford sold them for (if there even any left) was $1900!! I've actually got a couple sets of them, one set is even brand new--never been installed in a car.

Anyway, an HID kit should work in those housings no problem, and it's something that we could do VERY easily.
No heat - I assume the blend door isn't working.

There's a very good chance that the blend door actuator is your problem. If you pull the glove box door all the way down, you should be able to see the little gray plastic arm and the metal linkage that goes to the blend door actuator. If you can move it back and forth pretty freely, it's the arm on the blend door actuator.

That's something I could help you with as well. I've done it many times, and the last time I did it, I had the old one out and in my hands within 45 minutes. If I didn't have some other stuff to do, it likely would have been done in an hour and a half. The dealership charges a minimum 8 hours to do it!
Pulls to the right when braking.

Could be a caliper sticking, or a suspension issue. I've never experienced it personally, but many people say that the lower control ball joint going bad could cause a pull like that during braking. A good inspection of all of the front suspension pieces should be done sooner, rather than later.
Driver seat motor works but seat doesn't move ... I guess the gears are stripped? I will post a video later.

Yep, fairly common. Another member on here posted a thread recently, where he disassembled the gear housing and actually swapped one of the worm gears for one of the other movements of the seat.
And last but not least, the cup holder is broken.

Another easy one. I have a whole plastic tote, full of cupholder assemblies, and assembly pieces. What color is your interior? Looks like either gray or tan from the pictures.
I'd also like to lower the car a bit but not really sure how to go about that. The previous owner said it has been converted from air ride suspension but I have no clue on the specifics. Hopefully I'll get some time to get her up in the air this weekend and peek around under the car.

It's a lot easier when it's on air. lol. You may be able to just find some T-bird lowering springs somewhere though.
 
Thanks guys! ^^ I always appreciate kind words.



Cool! You'll have to stop by some time. It'll be nice to finally have another board member somewhere close. Achesonm8 lives in Charlotte, and he comes down occasionally to work on his car too. I think it's like a 3-hour drive for him..

Nice ... my in-laws live in Charlotte so we bounce around that area too. I will definitely take up your offer on helping fix a few things from time to time lol. The car is your sig looks nice. Who did you have tune it? Do tunes help these car much in factory or bolt-on form? Also I assume you have converted it to the 5x4.5 bolt pattern with mustang spindles and hubs? What size tires are you available to fit under it on the 18x9 and 18x10 wheels and what is the backspacing on those wheels? Thanks for all the help!

The HID kit I sell is a full plug-and-play kit that plugs right into the factory plug, and includes a set of adapters that I make, as well as a set of aftermarket HID bulbs and ballasts. I sell the adapters for $50 shipped, and the whole kit (including adapters) for $165 shipped. Although as mentioned above, if you have the Ford Halogen Retrofit Kit, you likely won't need the adapters. The other part of the kit would work for you though, since the factory plug remains.

The headlights look to be in really good shape, and if they are the retrofit kit headlights, then they're actually pretty rare/expensive. The last price that Ford sold them for (if there even any left) was $1900!! I've actually got a couple sets of them, one set is even brand new--never been installed in a car.

Anyway, an HID kit should work in those housings no problem, and it's something that we could do VERY easily.

How would I know if I have the Ford retrofit kit and don't need the adapters? Do you have any pics of the headlights (at night)? If my headlights are the Ford retrofit ones, that would make feel somewhat better for paying $3k for the car. Not sure if that was a good deal or too much???

Can't really help you there, but sometimes you'll be able to find one in the junkyard in decent shape for a good price.

I was eyeing the temple performance terminator bumper. That'd be pretty pricey by the time you get it and have it painted though.

As was mentioned above, it may just need to be tightened up. There should be 3 nuts on the inside of the trunk behind the taillight beneath the trunk carpet...

Will check this out when I get a chance.

Unfortunately, there's not really a GOOD fix for this, short of getting a replacement window. Temple Performance sells a kit that might help you, and would be worth checking out. It'll help with the ripples, but if the rubber is dry-rotted, it won't work. Some people have actually cut the edge of the rubber off, with decent results, but it depends on how it looks as is.

Can you still get new replacement windows with that molding???

There's a very good chance that the blend door actuator is your problem. If you pull the glove box door all the way down, you should be able to see the little gray plastic arm and the metal linkage that goes to the blend door actuator. If you can move it back and forth pretty freely, it's the arm on the blend door actuator.

That's something I could help you with as well. I've done it many times, and the last time I did it, I had the old one out and in my hands within 45 minutes. If I didn't have some other stuff to do, it likely would have been done in an hour and a half. The dealership charges a minimum 8 hours to do it!.

Nice! I ran the self diagnostic last night and got codes 135 and 155 if I remember correctly. I'll check the arm on the blend door actuator first chance I get.

Could be a caliper sticking, or a suspension issue. I've never experienced it personally, but many people say that the lower control ball joint going bad could cause a pull like that during braking. A good inspection of all of the front suspension pieces should be done sooner, rather than later..

I plan to get under the car and look around some this weekend. It seems to be making some unusual or unnecessary noise when going on speed bump so my guess is something in the suspension is worn out.

Yep, fairly common. Another member on here posted a thread recently, where he disassembled the gear housing and actually swapped one of the worm gears for one of the other movements of the seat.

So there is no way to actually fix it? I'd like to keep the other functions of my seat as well if possible. I noticed today that the telescoping part of my steering wheel (I'm assuming it is supposed to go in and out instead up just up and down???) doesn't work.

Another easy one. I have a whole plastic tote, full of cupholder assemblies, and assembly pieces. What color is your interior? Looks like either gray or tan from the pictures.

The interior is gray .... you wouldn't happen to have a cupholder assembly would you? I'll post pics of how mine is broken when I get home tonight.


It's a lot easier when it's on air. lol. You may be able to just find some T-bird lowering springs somewhere though.

Which year tbird would ya think?
 
has anyone on here used the Temple rear window repair kit?
re; the blend door, maybe you can use a popsicle stick to hold it up when you need heat instead of ac
---
imo, if the interior is in decent condition, 3k is a fair price
---
regardless of how much money you feed your Mark VIII, it will still want more
 
Nice ... my in-laws live in Charlotte so we bounce around that area too. I will definitely take up your offer on helping fix a few things from time to time lol. The car is your sig looks nice. Who did you have tune it? Do tunes help these car much in factory or bolt-on form? Also I assume you have converted it to the 5x4.5 bolt pattern with mustang spindles and hubs? What size tires are you available to fit under it on the 18x9 and 18x10 wheels and what is the backspacing on those wheels? Thanks for all the help!

Yep. Cobra hubs. I can't remember 100% at the moment, but I'm pretty sure they're 255/45/18's in the front, and 285/40/18's in the back. They're the 05+ Mustang offset wheels. I think 30mm in the front and 40mm in the back.

Right now, it has a mail order tune from Torrie at FastPartsNetwork.com. I plan on getting the SCT Pro Racer Package eventually though, so I can tune it myself.

How would I know if I have the Ford retrofit kit and don't need the adapters? Do you have any pics of the headlights (at night)? If my headlights are the Ford retrofit ones, that would make feel somewhat better for paying $3k for the car. Not sure if that was a good deal or too much???

Easiest way to tell would be to take them out and look at them. I'm not really sure how to tell you, but if you could take a picture of the wires coming out of the low beam socket on the headlight, I could tell you. Not a bad deal at 3k.

I was eyeing the temple performance terminator bumper. That'd be pretty pricey by the time you get it and have it painted though.

Yeah, I've got one of those as well. I was one of the first 10 people to buy one, but it's been sitting in my attic this whole time. I'll get it painted one of these days...

Can you still get new replacement windows with that molding???

I think so. Check out Tasca Ford, or Tousley. I think they had them listed for fairly cheap. (about $400, IIRC)

Nice! I ran the self diagnostic last night and got codes 135 and 155 if I remember correctly. I'll check the arm on the blend door actuator first chance I get.

Not sure what those are, and unfortunately don't have the time at the moment to look them up. I'm sure someone else will chime in though.

So there is no way to actually fix it? I'd like to keep the other functions of my seat as well if possible. I noticed today that the telescoping part of my steering wheel (I'm assuming it is supposed to go in and out instead up just up and down???) doesn't work.

If the gear is indeed stripped, you'll have to find another one. I haven't torn one down all the way yet, so I don't really know what it would need. Junkyard is probably your best bet. The mechanical track part of it is supposedly identical throughout all years of Mark VIII's, so you should be able to find a donor from any year 93-98. The only difference on the 97-98's are the memory module that's also mounted to it.

The interior is gray .... you wouldn't happen to have a cupholder assembly would you? I'll post pics of how mine is broken when I get home tonight.

I don't think I have a gray one right now, but I'll check when I get the chance. If not, I may have the pieces that you need. I've replaced specific parts in the past with good results. There's a member on here Mark0101 that's still using a cupholder assembly that I fixed probably close to 6 or 7 years ago...

Which year tbird would ya think?

89-97 Tbirds are the ones you want to look for.
 
i dunno if the silver inside gen 2 lights cook off as easily as gen 1's, but I wouldn't wait to convert those lights to HID's...it'd be a shame to see em deteriorate....keep in mind there's a way to splice wires and keep lows on when brights are energized
 
Yep. Cobra hubs. I can't remember 100% at the moment, but I'm pretty sure they're 255/45/18's in the front, and 285/40/18's in the back. They're the 05+ Mustang offset wheels. I think 30mm in the front and 40mm in the back.

I would have thought they were the 94-04 mustang offset ... good to know they are the 05+ offset. Any clearance issues? Are you also running the 13" cobra brakes?

Right now, it has a mail order tune from Torrie at FastPartsNetwork.com. I plan on getting the SCT Pro Racer Package eventually though, so I can tune it myself.

How do you like that tune? I tune all my other cars (older) with the moates qurterhorse and have only dabbled into the SCT software back before I got rid of my 11 Mustang. I'm very experienced with pushrod sbf's but not so much with the modular motors.

Easiest way to tell would be to take them out and look at them. I'm not really sure how to tell you, but if you could take a picture of the wires coming out of the low beam socket on the headlight, I could tell you. Not a bad deal at 3k.

I'll try to snap a pic this weekend sometime.



Yeah, I've got one of those as well. I was one of the first 10 people to buy one, but it's been sitting in my attic this whole time. I'll get it painted one of these days...

The messed up bumper gives me a good reason to get one lol.

I think so. Check out Tasca Ford, or Tousley. I think they had them listed for fairly cheap. (about $400, IIRC)

I'll have to check them out.

Not sure what those are, and unfortunately don't have the time at the moment to look them up. I'm sure someone else will chime in though.

If the gear is indeed stripped, you'll have to find another one. I haven't torn one down all the way yet, so I don't really know what it would need. Junkyard is probably your best bet. The mechanical track part of it is supposedly identical throughout all years of Mark VIII's, so you should be able to find a donor from any year 93-98. The only difference on the 97-98's are the memory module that's also mounted to it.

I imagine there's another more common car out there somewhere that has the part(s) needed .... once I get the seat apart I'll have to dig into it. That's not really on the top of my to do list right now though.

I don't think I have a gray one right now, but I'll check when I get the chance. If not, I may have the pieces that you need. I've replaced specific parts in the past with good results. There's a member on here Mark0101 that's still using a cupholder assembly that I fixed probably close to 6 or 7 years ago...

Here's a pic of mine where it's broken.

20140520_181957_zpsnf19ikpy.gif


89-97 Tbirds are the ones you want to look for.

Thanks .... will give it a look.
 

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