My $400 LS Registry

Kind of looks like theres a gasket on there, no?

Yes, it does not come with the vacuum hose assembly. Mine came with a new metal gasket, as shown.
I added this to my last post which was on page 7, so you might not have saw - my tubes appear to be newer, in good condition. Not brittle or cracking.

EGR will definitely be replaced, but I am curious as to the best way to get that nut off, which im assuming comes from the exhaust? The two bolts came out fairly easily, but that large nut is going to give me hell.

...Nevermind. I was trying to turn the nut the wrong way. I need more sleep.
Take care not to damage the fuel pressure sensor as you try to get that exhaust nut off. You may want to remove the sensor.
It's easier to get that nut off, than it is to get it back on...
Oh wonderful. Ill spray some PB on it tomorrow and in a few more days. EGR estimated delivery says Friday, but i'm hoping for Thursday.
Radiator got here yesterday, EGR tomorrow. Hopefully will be able to get tomorrow or Friday off and spend some time out there working on the car. Friday will most likely also be getting it plated and insured.

Random question, since all this work has been stuff that doesn't need the car to be driving to fix, and I haven't really driven it out on the road yet above 30-35, im curious about the suspension on this car. Im willing to bet it could use an overhaul, ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, etc; but of course since its an LS, everything seems completely different, and I read something about 4 wheel passive steering, what all behind the front and rear wheels would I need to order for a nice little suspension refresh? My struts/springs seem to be okay, theres no bouncing or anything. When I jack it up, or lower it back down, I hear some creaks coming from somewhere.
Actually, I've found the suspension to be pretty long lasting, mostly. The only suspension replacements on my 04 so far have been the two front wheel hubs, rear toe links (passive steer), all four sway bar end links, and front sway bar bushings. It has about 190K miles now. All of ball joint boots are cracked, so it can't be too much longer on those.

My 06 at 160K or so miles, has rear toe links (passive steer), rear sway bar end links, front lower control arms, one rear upper control arm, and a creaking noise that I am chasing that will probably be a rear lower control arm.

I think the design goal for the suspension was 100K miles, so most should be good for at least 150K miles.

I'd bet that your rear toe-links are bad, but that's probably not the creaking noise.

Most of the suspension nuts have nylocs and should not be reused. The aluminum parts expand/contract enough that the bolts will loosen themselves otherwise.
Wow, thats good to know. Ill have to look up those rear toe links. Thanks for the insight, maybe ill be lucky and not need to replace any of that right now.

Im trying to pull up the guide you sent me for the radiator removal, but that Deneau site is down apparently. :S Of course when I get home from work early and go to tackle the project lol.
My '03 had a pretty bad creaking noise. It wound up being the lower ball joints. Since they were not greaseable, I poked a tiny hole in the boot and sprayed a little PB Blaster and then some white lithium grease. It was quiet until the ball joints were changed with Moog. After 3-4 years the Moog joint started mAking the same noise.
Just got the radiator out.

That was absolutely ridiculous. I was ready to get a little circular saw and saw right down the middle of the damn radiator to get it out of all the hoses and whatnot that stop it from coming out easily. I literally have no motivation to even start installing the new one.

I also noticed that on one of my fan blades, theres a small metal clip, is that some kind of a balance device or should I pull it off?
EGR is off, that wasn't too bad. I moved some stuff aside to get at that big nut a little easier, and it was fairly easy. Of course FedEx is taking their sweet ass time, normally they deliver around 9-10am, but the radiator didn't get here until after 6pm (And I leave for work around 4, so it sat outside for 12 hours), and im sure the same will go with the EGR package.

Anyways, I didn't start putting the radiator in because I want to throw a new belt on, but didn't have time today to run out and get one. That also looks like its going to be a complete pain in the ass to change. I can't imagine trying to do it when the fan and radiator are in the car.
I wouldn't mess with the fan blade.
The belt is super easy to change with all that stuff out of the way.
Cut up the radiator box and use the cardboard to protect the fins on the new radiator. Cut it the same size and lightly tape it on both sides. Once the radiator is installed, you call pull the cardboard out from the bottom.
That's an awesome idea. I was worried about damaging them with the way you have to wiggle this thing around to get it in/out.
Also forgot to mention, I think my oil cooler is messed up. In the lower line, the coolant was like tan oily milk, as another member described it like a "latte" and it ended up being his oil cooler.

I'll have to price them out, but since it's getting cooler outside, and I don't really sit in traffic or anything, I think I can do away with it for a short period.

Any tips on completely flushing the system though to get all that oil out? Should I just run water and the prestine flush and keep draining it and then refill with 50/50 until all the water is out?
Actually, the oil cooler is supposed to help warm the oil up quicker too. Anyway, of course you can run without it. The 1st gen non-sports did not have one.
No kidding? Well if that's the case, then I'll definitely be replacing it. It gets bitter cold quite often in the Winter near me, below zero.

How exactly does the setup work. I see that on the lower radiator hose there are two coolant lines that diverge off to plug in right by the oil filter. Does the coolant flow through that fixture?
New EGR is on, I thought it was much easier to get the new one on, than to get the old one off. Heading out to AutoZone now to pick up a new belt and then get this radiator in and get to flushing this system. Gotta find some kind of connector too, to get those hoses that go to the oil cooler to connect to themselves. Anyone know off the top of their head what size coupler I would need?
Joe, im thinking about just replacing that oil cooler unit, but I am not finding anything on RockAuto, Autozone, etc. I figured it would probably be easier to just replace it and keep everything functioning as normal, vs trying to find a fitting to join those two coolant lines, and then finding another fitting to seal the oil cooler lines, because I assume leaving them open would leak oil out.

Edit- after 30,000 google searches, I think I found the model number, 2W9Z-6A642-EA. Looks like it should be very simple to change, take the filter off and then a bolt or two? Anybody know of anywhere that stocks these? I really don't want to have to order this online and wait another week before it gets here. I need to get this thing on the a month ago. :S

Thinking maybe plug the lines now, so I can get the coolant clean and flushed, and then order it and swap it in real quick when it does get here. It sucks, because I JUST changed the oil too, $40 of Synthetic oil down the drain.

Edit again-
Ordering the oil cooler, and new radiator hoses right now. Guess this project will just have to be put on hold for a few more days. No point in trying to get around it. Doing the front radiator hoses, the plastic all looks new, but the hoses look fatigued. Maybe the system hasn't been overhauled. There are NO signs of leaks anywhere that I can get my naked eye.

So, this week:

New upper, and lower radiator hoses.
New oil cooler
New belt
New radiator
Fresh coolant (Any tips on flushing the system to completely get the oil out?)
New EGR valve
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Currently trying to figure out how to get this oil cooler bolt out. Im assuming (after alot of time staring at it lol) its a giant allen wrench, which I don't have. Gonna bring the new bolt to Lowe's with me and see if I cant find something that fits it, and grab the belt since I forgot that as well. Running out of daylight, but oh well. I want to get this radiator and oil cooler situation buckled up by tomorrow.

This might be a dumb question, but can I disconnect the lines from the AC condensor to help clear more room getting the radiator back in? Those two rubber lines (The ones I pictured before that I said I thought were the source of the coolant leak) are in the way, one moves pretty much out of the way, but the other is too short and I really had to yank on it. I would assume though that they are R34 and it would evacuate the system if I pulled them off.
Sure you can disconnect them (legally is questionable).
Afterwards, you'll have to replace the receiver/dryer, figure out how much oil you lost and add that back, pull a good vacuum for thirty minutes, and add back in the correct amount of R-134a refrigerant. I would discharge via the low or high side port, rather than start to remove one of the hose connections while still under pressure. Note that those are hose assemblies (called manifolds), and you can't disconnect just a single hose.
Joe, I was wrong, the condenser is the front-most radiator, the one I was referring to was the smaller middle one which looks to be a PS and/or trans cooler? Looked like there were lines coming out of both sides.

Anyways, I got it done. Getting the radiator back in now that I knew what it looked like, and where all the little pieces stuck out, it was much simpler, plus when removing it, I left the front brackets bolted into it, not realizing those should've came off.

Everything is back on, new radiator in, new oil cooler, and new belt. (PS- that was alot easier than it looked, with the fan assy. out of the way. Seemed like it was going to be tough to get it to slip between the block and tensioner pulley, but it wasn't bad at all)

Gotta grab some oil tomorrow (Completely forgot it when I went to Autozone when I found that hex adapter, I was excited to get back home and get that cooler off), new filter, and then a bunch of distilled water and figure out some kind of detergent of some sort I can add to the coolant for a few flushes to get all of the oil out. Ill have quite a few hours tomorrow to work on it before work, and then Saturday hopefully she'll be ready for one last trip to Muffler Man to get some sort of muffler set up going.
That's what I keep reading, Joe. But then a few forums had people saying NO because it corrodes the aluminum.

I'll probably just go for water like 02Linc suggested, to at least flush the dirty coolant out first and then pick up some dishwasher detergent and try a small amount and see if it helps. (If it's that bad) The coolant wasn't "milky" and thick, just brown with a little residue.

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