maximum n/a setup

spraymax

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ok i've decided to go ballz out on this project, i'm taking my time to really do it right and money is not an issue, i want to do the ultimate n/a setup and still retain decent drivability, forget my other comments that this will be a freeway car i'm having the trans re-built with a 3500 stall and at least 4.30's out back, i'm not sure about this differential but a locker would be my prefered choice

i'm definantly using the teksid block and getting a forged crank with billet rods, there are alot of piston manufactures and i'm not sure which one to go with yet but i'm thinking 11.5 to 1 pistons for pump gas unless there is a way i could go higher ?

so of course a new upgraded radiator, electric water pump, nhra dampner, high volume oil pump, march pullies, msd coil packs, billet fuel rails, good fuel pump, new injectors for starters, any other suggestions would be welcome

also does anyone have any experience with Nazty Performance? they seem to have some nice packages i'm thinking giving my c heads and marauder intake as cores for a full blown set of c heads and fully done intake with stage 2 cams, ss valves etc.

http://www.naztyperformance.com/
 
you can go higher compression and meth inject it so that you can run pump gas
 
I am running a very close set up to what your looking at. Trust me when I say it takes allot to get these boats past the low 13's NA.
Engine, stock teksid block, forged crank, H beam rods, Keith Black pistons 11.3 to 1, early prototype split pattern Isky cams, B heads with mild port and polish, Cobra intake with split back cut runners, modified IMRC's, EV6 24LB matched injectors, MSD coils, cold air intake, 90MM MAS, Steeda harmonic balancer, Steeda timing adjuster, Steeda under drive pulleys.
Trans, 3500 Baummen converter and stage 4 shift kit on a 75R4W valve body.
3:73 rear with lock.
3rd cat removed, twin X cross overs, 2.5" dual to back with no mufflers.
Sniper Tuned, best run to date 13.1........
 
that's excellent imo, mid 12's is my goal, hopefully with the 4.30's fully ported c heads with everything stage 2 cams plus the nazty intake 1 3/4 kooks with full 2.5" exhaust and slightly more compression and whatever else i can do will do the trick to get this barge moving
 
With 4.30s or highers you could and with ported H/C/I probably should go with more stall then 3500. Like I said in your other thread though have the engine dynoed after it's dialed in and pick stall/gears from there.

IIRC Nazty performance is pretty active on the corral with a good rep. I know I have heard of them but have no experience with them myself.

Nothing wrong with meth but I don't like having another tank to worry about keeping filled.

Tiltedhalo any reason your running 3.73s? Sounds to my your a set of 4.30s away from being the 1st in the 12s NA(at least that I know of) And do you know how close to running out of injector you are? It was recommended to me by a couple people to step up from 24lbs when my cams and ported cobra intake go on.
 
Don't fear the stall with a crazy setup like that... if you build the engine and trans right you should be able to see 8k rpm shifts....
 
My 24LB injectors are a matched set and all flow between 25.2 and 26.3, and have had no problems keeping the fuel curve inline looking at the data log.
Remember this is my wife's daily driver it takes weekly trips to Orlando Fl from Melbourne Fl, so I tried to maintain some resemblance of street ability and gas mileage HA HA..... My wife wants a mid 12 car so my next step is 4:56 gears.
I would retain your B heads Just mild port work and they flow as well as ported C heads IMHO.
As for the compression these motors will tolerate pretty good squeeze I have had no issue with 11.3 to 1 with 32 deg total advance.
 
i was thinking 7000 rpm but 8000 rpm would be way too sweet, this will not be a dd just for cruises and a little driving around here and there basically just a toy

i already have the c heads and marauder intake just going to send them off to Nazty, now i'm thinking all stage 3 what the heck then a ~5000 or so stall determined by what the car wants with mini tubs so i can fit some 335 bfg rubber out back, i'm really liking the thought of doing something other than big stereo vehicles these days anyways

and since it wont even matter forget the pump gas i'll buy a drum of race fuel and keep it in my garage so max compression good fuel and meth hmmm...i like it
 
You need "cubes" go with a "Big Bore Stroker " setup. I would also up grade fuel system.
 
excellent suggestion i almost forgot about meth, with meth injection what is the compression ceiling for pump gas ?

to be honest i don't know...i'd contact snow and ask them, the highest i've seen in person was 13:1...i've also seen 38 lbs of boost go through an engine with meth injection lol.
 
Don't fear the stall with a crazy setup like that... if you build the engine and trans right you should be able to see 8k rpm shifts....

Agreed. I think the stock short block will be fine with an oil pump upgrade.


My 24LB injectors are a matched set and all flow between 25.2 and 26.3, and have had no problems keeping the fuel curve inline looking at the data log.
Remember this is my wife's daily driver it takes weekly trips to Orlando Fl from Melbourne Fl, so I tried to maintain some resemblance of street ability and gas mileage HA HA..... My wife wants a mid 12 car so my next step is 4:56 gears.
I would retain your B heads Just mild port work and they flow as well as ported C heads IMHO.
As for the compression these motors will tolerate pretty good squeeze I have had no issue with 11.3 to 1 with 32 deg total advance.

Thanks. Sounds like a good woman.

C heads even ported will help mid range more then a B head.
 
Don't fear the stall with a crazy setup like that... if you build the engine and trans right you should be able to see 8k rpm shifts....

8K would depend heavily on the valvetrain. 7K rpms should be no problem whatsoever with the right cam.

As for the compression these motors will tolerate pretty good squeeze I have had no issue with 11.3 to 1 with 32 deg total advance.

I think 12:1 with a good tune is more than plausible with premium pump gas?

You need "cubes" go with a "Big Bore Stroker " setup.

IMHO, there are more cons to stroker kits and big bores than the exorbitant cost justifies. You can't argue with displacement being the most bang for the buck though. It all depends on your personal preferences in the end.
 
i'm really liking what Mr. Naz has going on i see he makes 537 whp with a 4.6 based n/a setup in his cobra that would be a sick setup to duplicate, i'm going to talk with him tomorrow if i can get ahold of him
 
just got off the phone with Carlos and will be working out a combo by the end of the week, looks like my teksid block with a kellog crank, billet rods and diamond 12.9 pistons and all custom top half and 8500 rpm capability :)

~550 n/a whp hmmm... sounds like this old lincoln is going to surprise a few people
 
just got off the phone with Carlos and will be working out a combo by the end of the week, looks like my teksid block with a kellog crank, billet rods and diamond 12.9 pistons and all custom top half and 8500 rpm capability :)

~550 n/a whp hmmm... sounds like this old lincoln is going to surprise a few people

Nice man. With 550rwhp NA I see a big stall and 4.56s in your future. Should be a lot of fun though.
 
ya i'm definantly excited about this project, it kinda expanded a little but the more i thought about it the more fun it sounded like
 
You may run a hell of a lot faster than mid 12s. My goal is to run 12.70s at 105 with barely any mods. The key is to have the right mods. Im in less than 3000 dollars invested including the price of the car.

Its a truely budget build. Lets just put it this way. A lot of gear and the right combination makes for a nasty n/a car. Pm me if you wanna talk about it.
 
hey 1badmark Carlos' cobra weighs about 200 lbs. less than my car and with a 6 speed and 4.56's he's running low 10's trapping over 128 mph with 537 whp on a break in tune and i'm going to be a little more radical than his car so once i really get it dialed in who knows but it should run pretty good
 
Damn I need one of them motors. While you're ordering make that two. I'll send you my address for shipping. THANKS
 
Don't forget to get your sub frames all tied in. You will definitely notice the difference afterwards.

While your'e changing gears etc I would suggest you invest in IRS poly bushing kit and rear support brace kit.

I would also recheck that 4:56 gear selection to be sure that you can get enough tire under the car. That's width and circumference (diameter) to be sure you are not MPH"d out before the eyes. Your car is different from a Cobra.

I look forward to seeing more of your project as it sounds exciting.
 
^ thanks, the frame will be tied, driveshaft loop and at least a mmx driveshaft it's the IRS i'm worried about. i'm thinking of a coil over conversion and maybe a 4 link out back as this will be a straight line car only, plus the car will be mini tubbed

i know the taller the tire the better so maybe for the street i'll just use normal street tires as i'll never race anyone on the street but for those trips to the strip i'll just go with a 10.5 x ~29 slick and front runners
 
I hate to be a party pooper, but if it was that easy there would be a ton of modified Mark VIII's running 10's and 11's. I know of a few that are making between 500 and 550HP and do not run 10's, and you are going to do it NA??
Under perfect conditions perfect traction it will take 450RWHP to pull 4000LBS to a 12, and that physics. And a Mark is far from the perfect drag race package.
at 4.6L you will have to produce 2.25 HP per cubic inch, and that's asking allot.
You will need better weight transfer, a 10.5 tire wont cut it hell I cant get traction will 400HP let alone 600+ crank HP. Sub frame connectors are a must I welded mine up and it makes a big difference.
I just hope you don't plan on trying to drive it on the street, because you are going to need a hell of allot of cam, gear and converter.
 

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