I got my car back from getting new brakes and rear calipers etc, and 11 new Motorcraft lug nuts in the last 1-2 months. Needed to paint the new calipers. I bought 2 jack stands and hydraulic jack.
Went to pull the lugs Saturday night. My stock lug wrench would only fit 1 of the stock lugs. Got a 4 way, it would only fit one. I bought new 19mm, 20mm, 21mm and 13/16" deep 6pt 1/2" sockets, and a new long torque wrench with a 3" extension.
Had to use the 20mm socket on 19 stock lugs to get them off. Researched all night for new lugs. Went to 2 Walmarts, 1 Checkers, 2 O'Reilys, 2 Autozones. No one had Gorilla lugs. Since it was a Sunday early AM, no Chrysler dealership was open to get the Sebring lugs (Chrysler Sebring/Mitsubishi MB579290 manufacturer date of 4/1/97 or after).
Found 4 Dorman 611-117 lugs at 1 Autozone, and 16 more at another Autozone (after market equivalent of the Sebring MB579290).
I was concered about shank diameter and shank length.
These are soooo close in diameter that you can hardly feel any difference moving them in the wheel hole when jiggling them left and right, as compared to stock. (Shank diameter ok).
The shank length is longer on these. The stock lugs do not go through the wheel... so it does not hit the rotor and what causes the lugs to tighten is the pressure against the washer into the wheel, and then pulling the wheel against the rotor.
These new Dorman 611-117 lugs extend past the wheel. If you screw them all the way onto the bolts without the wheel on... they bottom out within a recess of the rotor at the bolts within 16+ turns on the rear rotors, and 15+ turns on the front rotors. With the wheels on, they tighten up at 15+ turns on the rear rotors, and 14+ turns on the front rotors (100 ft lbs). This means they do not hit the rotor, causing proper fitment pulling the lug washer into the wheel, and pulling the wheel against the rotor. (Shank length ok).
So these Dorman 611117 lug nuts fit and look great. They are nicer looking then the stock lug nuts, beefier looking, shinier, and solid (not a tin cap). I know people have used these before, but I have never seen an explanation about the effect it may have using the longer shank lug nut... hence my intial testing, and the findings have been given here.
The Motorcraft lug nuts (even the redesigned ones) are junk... even after a few months (they had been removed many times though for various maintenance performed by different shops).
The Dorman 611-117 lug nut says it uses a 21mm socket. I found the 13/16" fit a little more snug (use a 6pt socket, not a 12pt).
Now back to painting the rear calipers (black is done, getting ready for red).
Before/After pics with old/new lug nuts.
Went to pull the lugs Saturday night. My stock lug wrench would only fit 1 of the stock lugs. Got a 4 way, it would only fit one. I bought new 19mm, 20mm, 21mm and 13/16" deep 6pt 1/2" sockets, and a new long torque wrench with a 3" extension.
Had to use the 20mm socket on 19 stock lugs to get them off. Researched all night for new lugs. Went to 2 Walmarts, 1 Checkers, 2 O'Reilys, 2 Autozones. No one had Gorilla lugs. Since it was a Sunday early AM, no Chrysler dealership was open to get the Sebring lugs (Chrysler Sebring/Mitsubishi MB579290 manufacturer date of 4/1/97 or after).
Found 4 Dorman 611-117 lugs at 1 Autozone, and 16 more at another Autozone (after market equivalent of the Sebring MB579290).
I was concered about shank diameter and shank length.
These are soooo close in diameter that you can hardly feel any difference moving them in the wheel hole when jiggling them left and right, as compared to stock. (Shank diameter ok).
The shank length is longer on these. The stock lugs do not go through the wheel... so it does not hit the rotor and what causes the lugs to tighten is the pressure against the washer into the wheel, and then pulling the wheel against the rotor.
These new Dorman 611-117 lugs extend past the wheel. If you screw them all the way onto the bolts without the wheel on... they bottom out within a recess of the rotor at the bolts within 16+ turns on the rear rotors, and 15+ turns on the front rotors. With the wheels on, they tighten up at 15+ turns on the rear rotors, and 14+ turns on the front rotors (100 ft lbs). This means they do not hit the rotor, causing proper fitment pulling the lug washer into the wheel, and pulling the wheel against the rotor. (Shank length ok).
So these Dorman 611117 lug nuts fit and look great. They are nicer looking then the stock lug nuts, beefier looking, shinier, and solid (not a tin cap). I know people have used these before, but I have never seen an explanation about the effect it may have using the longer shank lug nut... hence my intial testing, and the findings have been given here.
The Motorcraft lug nuts (even the redesigned ones) are junk... even after a few months (they had been removed many times though for various maintenance performed by different shops).
The Dorman 611-117 lug nut says it uses a 21mm socket. I found the 13/16" fit a little more snug (use a 6pt socket, not a 12pt).
Now back to painting the rear calipers (black is done, getting ready for red).
Before/After pics with old/new lug nuts.
the one from my 00 was bent from me jumping on it one time when I had a flat on the road. I usually put a huge pipe on the iron for leverage but that wasn't in my bag of tricks that day. Lol. It's kinda funny now. I was really ticked that day. thankfully some guy with a service truck stopped and helped me. At that point of time I would have been happy to get a socket and breaker but I didn't argue !
