LS Intermittently Won't Turn Over. PATS?

triniti

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I posted this won't start issue earlier this week thinking that it may have been something faulty with the drivers seat that was causing the issue. Something was loose under the driver's seat and once I put it back in place the problem persisted. For all I know the loose wire may have triggered the start of the issue. My speakers were intermittently humming also around the same time. After scouring the newsgroups and doing more research I think that my problem is actually the PATS system due to the rapidly flashing PATS light, upon turning the key (while the problem is occurring) coupled with the inability to arm the system when it is flipping out and won't turn over. When it is not flipping out and will start, the system arms normally. The door lock and unlock all the time but the system won't arm or disarm when flipping out. Hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction to get the issue fixed, preferably without another costly trip to the dealer. Here is the details of what's going on.

My car (2000 LS v6) will either not start at all or start and then shut off without warning while the car is idling or driving. When it shuts off the engine completely dies but everything else works. Instant dead like a kill switch was flipped on or something. No engine response at all but the power was perfectly fine. Radio, windows, instrument panel, interior chime and all were just fine. In the past when it happened, it usually just won't start all of a sudden but once it starts (after multiple tries) it runs like a top as usual. There were huge time gaps between these occurrences like days, weeks or even months. Now all of a sudden one day it is not drivable and shuts off in seconds but never at the same time. I replaced the battery a few months back and starter relay a couple days ago and it still occurs.

This is a real pain the butt. What is the right way to go about troubleshooting and fixing my PATS system? There has to be some simple workaround to bypass the system so it is drivable and repairable without dealer assistance.
 
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Somebody, anybody? I know one of the gurus on here has the goods. Please enlighten me.
 
I was flipping through the service manual and I read
Symptom: The vehicle starts and runs for longer than 1 second, then stalls.
This is not a passive anti-theft system (PATS) issue. PATS never disables a running engine.
So you may have another gremlin along with PATS! :(
 
I was flipping through the service manual and I read

So you may have another gremlin along with PATS! :(

Were you flipping through the service manual on an 2000 LS v6? If not, maybe they fixed the issue on later models. If it isn't PATS related, I think it is odd that when it happens and I try to start again the PATS light flashes and the engine does nothing, like it's in kill mode. Plus the PATS won't arm until the 'problem' is gone again.

For them to say that the PATS won't shut down a running car doesn't sound right. If it is jacked up (shorting out or failing or whatever) then logically we can assume that it could shut off a running engine since it performs that kill function anyway. If it isn't PATS itself, then maybe it's the key causing the problem (which has had a crack in it for a long time) or the ignition switch (which seems a lot more loose than it used to be) meaning it will still be PATS related and can kill the car.

Out of all the 2000 LSes in this forum I can't believe I'm the only one with this weird issue.
 
Please don't pass this on to me;)

I'm trying to find out who I caught it from. They need to be quarantined indefinitely. It's a sad sad day when the specialists are clueless to what ails you. ;)
 
Those are valid points... and no it's the manual for the opposite end of the spectrum, 2006 V8! Who knows what they changed with PATS over the years :D
 
I posted this before, not sure if it was one of your posts or not. I had a starting problem, that turned out to be a relay. This car has more relays and fuses then a fu<kin carrier. I would check the relays. I would probably find out which ones (if you pull them out while the car is running) acts the same way as the problem you are having. I think you said the car shuts off, but you still have battery power. So try pulling the ones that power the computers and ignition. remember there may be more than one relay and or fuses for a single component in this car.
 
I posted this before, not sure if it was one of your posts or not. I had a starting problem, that turned out to be a relay. This car has more relays and fuses then a fu<kin carrier. I would check the relays. I would probably find out which ones (if you pull them out while the car is running) acts the same way as the problem you are having. I think you said the car shuts off, but you still have battery power. So try pulling the ones that power the computers and ignition. remember there may be more than one relay and or fuses for a single component in this car.

I looked through the manual and didn't see a relay for PATS or anything ignition related except for the starter. Only fuses. I already replaced the relay for the starter last week with the same problem. There has to be a way to bypass PATS so I can try to narrow things down.
 
CHECK THE PCM DIODE. Apparently these get loose over time.... I had the same symptoms, car would randomly not start. Drove me crazy for months. Then one day I was pulling the relays in and out and noticed the PCM Diode suddenly made a CLICK when I pushed it down. Apparently it was creeping out of it's socket over the years. All I had to do was push it back in, and voila! problem went away!!

Btw, in my car, Lincoln Continental 1999, the diode is to the left of Relay 7 (PCM Relay). This solved the mysterious "GEAR DISPLAY ERROR", CHECK TRACTION CONTROL, etc., and PATS code 16.
 
a few more things... that diode eventually failed completely. I was at a stop light and the car died. Pushing it around no longer helped. Luckily, the diode right next to it (left side) is of the same type, but for the A/C clutch. so I swapped it. Guess what? It started, and then the A/C started blowing hot air INTERMITTENTLY!
Since then, I got two NEW diodes from the dealer for $5 each, and both problems went away!

So from now on, if ANYTHING gives me INTERMITTENT problems, even if it's a TOASTER, if there's a diode in it, that will be my #1 suspect!!!
 

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