little nitrous help please

00ls-sport

00ls-sport

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i have a used holley kit(#5171) lined up at a good price. it uses the tps as a trigger, not switches. this won't present any problems in theory, right? does that mean that if i floor it from stop, it will kick in, or can i install a switch to overide it? also, i can remove the tank at will so i don't have it in the trunk unless i know i'm at the track or something? sorry for all the dumb questions, but i prefer to be informed rather than without a car or even dead. tia.
 
yep - the TPS trigger is a better setup IMHO - switches need to be re-aligned every so often. The Zex system typically only use TPS.


as far a the bottle - yes - it's like your bbq, you shutoff the valve and then unscrew the line. That is how you get it refilled.
 
not really - there is very little difference in the actual kits - jetting sizes.
 
one more question. do i have to change anything else mechanically, or can the car be adjusted via my xcal2? i rather not change the plugs as they only have about 5k miles one them, or the fuel pump cause i bet that is mucho $$$.
 
well - it's all a matter of who you ask.

Yes - technically you should go to colder plugs, and go with cooper core - not platinum, and gap them smaller (they recommend at least one step colder at 100hp).

You should always pull some timing out for N2O (they recommend 2 degrees per 100hp). This can be done with the XCal, but unless you have the 'real' tuning software from SCT (called the Pro-Racer package) you'll need your tuner to make you a new file.
 
oh yeah, i have no intentions of tuning it myself!!! will running the 32 platinums negatively effect the nitrous, or it's just a matter of personal opinions? i have access to 22c plugs, but again, labor rates suck.
 
they state that the platinum cannot handle the N20, aggressively erodes the tip (IB due to the heat) and then you end up in a bad way.

The point of going to colder plugs is to keep the heated plug itself from igniting the the mix before the spark - detonation. Same goes for the smaller gap.

The biggest issue you have with N2O is detonation - you're under WOT with the juice flowing - if something goes wrong - it goes all wrong.


you can see - colder plugs recommend for almost every application -> http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Installation Requirements.pdf
 
00ls-sport said:
oh yeah, i have no intentions of tuning it myself!!! will running the 32 platinums negatively effect the nitrous, or it's just a matter of personal opinions? i have access to 22c plugs, but again, labor rates suck.
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Running the platinum plugs takes a much bigger risk of burning things up. The plats run way hotter than the coppers so that they ignite quicker and better. That is why they are good on a N/A situation. When you step to nitrous your going to burn fast anyways so your just hurting things because your cylinder pressure will go up due to higher pressures when firing the a/f mixture. That and a few other things would contribute to higher heat, which could cause a meltdown.

I would suggest swapping to copper plugs so you dont take any chances with burning too hot.

You can configure nitrous to activate in many different ways. A TPS tap in switch to monitor WOT position is one good way to activate it, but you dont want to activate it at low rpms. That will cause wheelspin and also higher pressures/temps in the cylinders, let alone shock on the driveline. Throw a window switch in there too so that your nitrous only activates when you have the master arming switch on, the throttle wide open and within that window of rpm range. There are more complex ways of running the activation for nitrous but I will keep it simple for now.

What size shot you plan on running?
 
Also on the Xcal2 note. If you have your tuner send you your files in .LL3 format with spark timing allowed to be adjusted, then you can retard the spark yourself, on the device, without having to send it back to your tuner. If your tune file is in .XTR format then you can use Extreme Tune to bump the spark timing down a little bit, but ET is kind of cheesy IMO.

If you don't have your tune in .LL3 format already then go to www.sctflash.com and look in the support forums. I forget which exact sub-section it is, but you will find a thread the SCT staff made to convert your .XTR to .LL3 files in there. :cool:
 
ok, i will try to talk one of the techs into changing the plugs.

What size shot you plan on running?
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i'm not sure...i assume it comes with diff sizes. here is the posting:

Title says it all. My NOS system is up for sale. Holley 5171 NOS system. Made for Mustang modular motors. I had it running on my Mark VIII. Kit uses TPS sensor to trigger system rather than mini switches. Nice clean install. Holley web site lists it as a plate system, but its actually a nozzle system. Comes with your choice of nozzle color: blue, red, bronze. contact me at...
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also, will running the colder plugs have any adverse effect when the nitrous is not being used? i wouldn't think so because of the sct, but just want to make sure.
 
Quik LS said:
they will foul sooner - but it's all part of it.....
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+1.

They will have more maintenance needs, but when your running nitrous I would suggest you pull the plugs on occasion anyways to just check things over real quick.
 
00ls-sport said:
should i try to get a 100hp nozzle, or stick with the 75 shot?
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Try the 75 shot and see if your happy with that. If not, then move up to the 100 shot. Make sure you are tuned for this first. Whether you spray pre-MAF or spray post MAF and actually have a tuner make you a tune for it, I suggest you tune for the nitrous in some way. This is kinda a PITA with the Xcal2 as it takes about 10 minutes just to upload a tune. With simple dry kits a lot of people have had good results with spraying pre-MAF as long as they didn't drop too big a shot in there. I would suggest making sure your MAS is located far enough back and away from the nitrous shot so as to let it atomize/vaporize so none of the liquid droplets hit your MAS element. The MAS location would almost resemble a blowthrough type setup in a way. Just don't locate it too close to the TB or too close to the nozzle. Good luck and have fun. Post a thread once you run it a few times. I am sure others in here will have a good time hearing about another LS on the juice. :D Just to forewarn ya, spraying pre-MAF has risks involved. The safest way is post MAF with a dedicated tune and running colder copper plugs.
 
00ls-sport said:
i have a used holley kit(#5171) lined up at a good price. it uses the tps as a trigger, not switches. this won't present any problems in theory, right? does that mean that if i floor it from stop, it will kick in, or can i install a switch to overide it? also, i can remove the tank at will so i don't have it in the trunk unless i know i'm at the track or something? sorry for all the dumb questions, but i prefer to be informed rather than without a car or even dead. tia.
Click to expand...
The only thing that I have found neg. about the tps triger is if you are rolling, and you punch it, it sprayes in the mist of downshifting.
 
zexls said:
The only thing that I have found neg. about the tps triger is if you are rolling, and you punch it, it sprayes in the mist of downshifting.
Click to expand...

How bad is that for the engine/tranny?
 
zexls said:
The only thing that I have found neg. about the tps triger is if you are rolling, and you punch it, it sprayes in the mist of downshifting.
Click to expand...

this is the same for the WOT switch - remember both are only triggered at WOT - only one reads a voltage, the other is mechanically tripped
 
with a hundred shot, about how many fun 0-60's can you do before you need to refilll and how much does it cost to refill on average?
 
between $3 and $4 per pound - so 10 pound bottle = $35.

10lb bottle with 100shot - 7 1/4mile runs - leaves a couple of pounds left at the bottom of the bottle.

so about 7 x 13 secs = minute and a half = $28.
 
zexls said:
The only thing that I have found neg. about the tps triger is if you are rolling, and you punch it, it sprayes in the mist of downshifting.
Click to expand...



Thats exactly what SST can be used for, so you can prevent that.
 
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