Lincoln LS 2001 Clutch replacement

[royalT]

I have a 2001 lincoln LS, and ever since a certain someone tried starting it in 5th at the bottom of the hill, the clutch doesn't grab, but doesn't slip.

I am new to clutches, I have done everything else on the car, but I have never done a clutch and I am new to them.

I have found a stage 3, 4 puck clutch someones selling me for 90$, and I really want to buy it. Both stock and this aftermarket spec clutch is a 10 spline, 10 inch clutch.

I was wondering would it fit? Its off a 1991 mustang, would the pressure plates be different? Would I still be able to buy the clutch and but a seperate pressure plate and have it work?




I have a 2001 LS gen 1

swapped

- rims
- drilleed rotors all corners
- electric rad fan
- alternator
- battery
- belt X2
- window regulators x3
- driver side door
- re-routed belt from hydro pump, NOT DONE EASILY WITH V6. Be warned.

 

[oddball]

There were a few threads several months back where one of our members was trying to replace his clutch and discovered that flywheels aren't available, and it's dicey to resurface a used one.
Hopefully someone will chime in. I've only done one clutch, and I was just helping out.

 

[pragmatic]

I have a 2001 lincoln LS, and ever since a certain someone tried starting it in 5th at the bottom of the hill, the clutch doesn't grab, but doesn't slip.

Somewhat confused. Doesn't grab but doesn't slip? What does it do?

Not sure what clutches will work. I usually change (77 Ford Van, 91 Escort, late 80's Sentra, early 80's Celica, 87 Merkur, 77 MGB) pressure plate and clutch (leave flywheel alone). I know some who always resurface the flywheel and others who just change the clutch.

My Lincoln currently has 141,000 on the original clutch hopefully it will last as long as I own it.

 

[Right on the Mark]

Don't buy any clutch part unless specifically made for the lincoln ls. Also don't think you will want or need anything more then stock. Also don't think higher Spec level is better. Higher Spec level means a higher grab. To the average guy they call them "in or out" meaning you can't slip them they just grab as soon as released. Not for a daily driver.

 

[milehighmikey]

It sounds like the disc and or pressure plate got taken out by the starting of the engine at a high speed roll. Keep it stock, sachs has a good unit for sale at rock auto. I bought that model there last december and was not unhappy with my purchase. The flywheel resurface is always based on what you see when you open it up. If it is heat stressed or cracked, either resurface or replacement is needed. I was able to sand mine with an orbital sander and the feel has been great for the past 20K miles.

 

[royalT]

when i mean it doesn't grab but doesnt slip

- it has 0 feel whats so ever. mushy to the point that it doesn't even feel like its there. I have to look at the tacho to get it started or else ill burn it up completly, simply is NO feel.

but it doesn't slip either. according to fords test, the clutch is still good.

Could it be something else? bleed the system maybe?

- the point of engagment feels as if it has changed completly. used to engage deep and strong, now it engages shallow and soft. Near the top of the pedal stroke it engages, feels so soft, it just feels like something is wrong.

 

[Right on the Mark]

when i mean it doesn't grab but doesnt slip

- it has 0 feel whats so ever. mushy to the point that it doesn't even feel like its there. I have to look at the tacho to get it started or else ill burn it up completly, simply is NO feel.

but it doesn't slip either. according to fords test, the clutch is still good.

Could it be something else? bleed the system maybe?

- the point of engagment feels as if it has changed completly. used to engage deep and strong, now it engages shallow and soft. Near the top of the pedal stroke it engages, feels so soft, it just feels like something is wrong.

"when i mean it doesn't grab but doesnt slip"
You cannot say these 2 things at the same time. If its not slipping then that means it grabs!! Is the clutch system hyd. in LS. If so master or slave cly could be bad.

 

[milehighmikey]

It is a hydraulic system, with the slave cylinder being integrated into the throwout bearing. It seems as though the clutch materials have come apart on this clutch somehow. The more it gets driven, the more damage it could be causing, especially to the flywheel. There is a small amount of inspection hole at the 6 o-clock position of the bell housing, perhaps you could go under there and look for pieces floating around in the area. When I changed my clutch, there was actually a hole in the bell housing from the pressure plate disintegrating on an earlier clutch, most likely caused by a pressure plate strap coming loose and flying outward with centrifugal force. I bought this car at 84K miles, and this had happened before my ownership. It proves that things can go wrong on these clutches when possible. I only changed my clutch when I did because I was changing the transmission due to an unstoppable leak in the tail shaft seal area. With 160K on the car, I was not taking a chance that the clutch would be lasting much longer, but little did I know until I took it apart that the clutch was not original.

 

[royalT]

6 oclock facing the front of the car or rear?

 

[milehighmikey]

6 oclock facing the front of the car or rear?

You would see the hole in the bottom of the bell housing while looking at it from the front to back.

 

[pragmatic]

- it has 0 feel whats so ever. mushy to the point that it doesn't even feel like its there. I have to look at the tacho to get it started or else ill burn it up completly, simply is NO feel.

but it doesn't slip either. according to fords test, the clutch is still good.

Could it be something else? bleed the system maybe?

- the point of engagment feels as if it has changed completly. used to engage deep and strong, now it engages shallow and soft. Near the top of the pedal stroke it engages, feels so soft, it just feels like something is wrong.

They usually slip in higher gears first. Mechanically operated clutches (cable or linkage) will engage near the top of the pedal when worn and in need of adjustment. Hydraulic (like the Lincoln) should self adjust.

Since it is not slipping, I would suggest making sure the reservoir is full (same one as the brakes) and bleed the hydraulic system. I'm leaning toward a problem with master cylinder, possibly a plugged compensating port not allowing new fluid in to compensate for the wear caused by the improper clutch use. Have you ever changed the brake fluid (should be done every couple of years).

 

[royalT]

Thats what i am doing tonight.

I recently changed brake pads and rotors ( this week), and I noticed an excess of fluid in the res. (dirty dirty fluid) Bleeding em tonight.

 

[royalT]

Hey, so after a few days, I got around to bleeding all the brakes, then the slave cylinder.

I got lucky boys... Tons of air in my hydro line on the clutch. That and the fluid was old and rather dirty.

Did a complete flush of the brake fluid and now my clutch is back to being normal.

It was getting bad to the point where it would, no lie, feel as if half the clutch was missing when i would go to engage it.

I strongly advise a full bleed before you change your clutch, or SS.

- I did the ford test for the clutch : 4th gear, parked, let clutch out slowly -> engine stall, clutch good. Engine don't stall, TOAST.

Mine would always stall so I had a feeling there was hope in it.

Now, after changing everything, the only problem I have is a coolant leak, the culprit, those dam plastic splitters, which you would never even find under your sink.