Leaking Chrome Rim Repair

thehamm99

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Okay...

So I've got a leaky/corroded rim. I've taken the wheel to a tire shop and had the tire removed, and it is my plan to repair the wheel myself (since I've had one of these shysters do a sloppy job before, with no luck).

I've looked up several different articles on how to diy (found nothing here), and the instructions seem to go like this:

1) Have tire removed from rim (already done)
2) Use wire brush or wire wheel or brush on drill to carefully chip away the corroded/pitted chrome to leave surface smooth
3) Wipe down with mineral spirits and let dry
4) Spray the newly brushed portion with bare-metal primer and let dry

Okay, so I'm pretty good with those instructions, they all make sense...

Where does "bead sealer" come in though?

Do I apply bead sealer to the area on the rim where the tire sits?

Or does bead sealer go onto the tire after it's mounted?

(And do I need to do anything to the tire other than clean it of debris?)

And if it goes directly on the inside of the rim, how long do I need to wait for it to dry?

Any different instructions any of you experts have are more than welcome...

All help is appreciated.

Thanks.

*Edit. I included a pic of the corroded trouble spot. The tire loses about 5-6psi per day.

IMAG0117.jpg
 
I never use a bead sealer that turns into rubber I use a synthetic greese from meyers tire products.
The shop would aply this before they mount the tire.
 
So, then would you say that I should follow instructions (step 1 through step 4), and that should be sufficient?
 
i think im having the same problem as you. my left rear rim is peeling and looks corroted, but that side is fine, what worries me is my right rear rim looks fine but the tire goes low after filling it with air a few days after. i put 32 lbs in each tire, 3-5 days later that back right tire is low and i check it, its down to like 15. i am pretty sure its not the tire, gotta have that checked out.
 
I used to work in a plant that actually made OEM aluminum rims. We did not do any chrome work at all but I will say that we did corrosion testing on the rims with salt spray. I know that when you go into a tire shop and show them a chrome aluminum rim they say that it is the chrome that causes the problem but that is not entirely true.

Once the wheel starts to corrode enough to remove the chrome there is a major issue. The aluminum alloy base of the wheel has become pourus. This is not something that can really be fixed without a sealer or some sort, but please remember that it will start leaking somewhere else on the rim. If you could presure test the rims, as we used to do in the factor, from the outside in you would most likely see the rim leaking in places you could never imagine. I have seen it.

Once the rim has started leaking there is really no way to go back. Corrosion is the cause and once it starts it will never stop.
 
Normally the problem he is having is caused from wheel weights

Op don't forget that primer is not air tight you will need something to seal it
 
Okay, I followed the above instructions...

I used wire brushes on a drill to chip away some of the flaky chrome, and sandpaper in other areas until it was smooth with no ridging or flaking...had to do several areas on the rim.

I painted it with Rustoleum clean metal primer, then covered that with Rustoleum metal wheel paint.

The guy at the tire place applied whatever sealer he normally uses.

10 days later, no leaks so far.

If it holds up another couple of weeks, and I'm completely convinced that it's worked, I'll do my left front as well.

Total cost:
Tire removed/remounted : $10
Primer, paint: $10

(Already had all the other equipment).
 
I've slowed my leak in a tire that kept losing air around the rim. Was losing a pound a day. My tires are the original at 70K on my 04 Town car. I found the area when it was leaking, and positioned the car where the valve was above it. I took out the valve stem and slowly put in silicone liquid so it dripped down the inside of the bead. Seems to be a lot less leakage now. Tires dry out, and the silicone makes the tire more flexible I think. Worth a try, only takes a few minutes to do it.
 
I had the same problem with my Mark VIII. Firestone effectively glued the tire on the rim after lightly grinding the area smooth. It's a patch, not a fix as far as I know. As soon as I could I bought new rims.
 
I mount and dis-mount my own tires for all my vehicles (have for years). I use a scotch bright wheel attached to a drill and go around the whole rim removing all corrosion, dirt, stuck on rubber. Then I use the same scotch bright wheel on the bead area of the tire. Then I take a rag full of transmission fluid and go around wheel and tire before I re-mount tire. I've never had one leak after this.
 
leaky chrome LTC chrome rim repair cheap

I'm tired of filling two tires that are leaking at the rim every few weeks. I'm going to take it to my mechanic, break the bead, put on Gorilla glue in the spot thats got the leak and inflate.. Can only put on the very smallest amout as it expands and is almost impossible to remove. The stuff is a miracle for everything else I use it for. Find a shoe with a hole in the sole and fill it with the stuff, it just won't wear but I don't know if it would work on the tires.
 
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I'm tired of filling two tires that are leaking at the rim every few weeks. I'm going to take it to my mechanic, break the bead, put on Gorilla glue in the spot thats got the leak and inflate.. Can only put on the very smallest amout as it expands and is almost impossible to remove. The stuff is a miracle for everything else I use it for. Find a shoe with a hole in the sole and fill it with the stuff, it just won't wear but I don't know if it would work on the tires.

Follow what I did, first post in the thread.
I did it to 3 of my rims and never had trouble again.
 

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