KOOKS headers and 98 cobra intake swap

snake hunter

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I've got a set of gen 1 kooks headers that I want to put on my 97 Mark VIII and not sure if anything needs to be altered on them to make work on my gen 2

I'm going to do the 96-98 cobra intake swap and the kooks headers at the same time and don't want to run into any surprises that will keep the car off the road any longer than needed or have it sit at the muffler shop while I'm waiting on unexpected parts that will be needed. I found this post that I think will tell me what I need for the intake that I will list below but not sure about the headers?

**This is the info I found for the intake swap. Please check it out and make sure I'm going in the right direction

**For you guys planning on this swap for a Gen2, I just want to give you some facts about the install. So here they are:

*You WILL need 6 bolts of a different length in order to bolt down the Cobra intake;three on either side. They are 8mmX 1.25 pitch 70s. The bolts for the fuel rails and up front will be fine.

*The cruise control module in the driver's side wheel well has to be relocated closer to the engine compartment. In its original position, the cruise control cable (which also serves as throttle return) is nowhere close to reaching. I adapted a throttle return spring on mine and am basically not using the cruise control function at this point. To be able to get the cruise control cable to work on the cobra intake with the new location of the stock bracket, I believe it has to be modified or manipulated in some way. Using a throttle bracket from the Cobra may have made this part easier, but I couldn't get my hands on one. The Mark VIII throttle body has to be flipped upside-down for this part of the swap and the wires for the TPS have to be extended because the connector will not reach.

*The stock intake tube will NOT work with the Cobra intake and it's not even close. It points towards the radiator, lol. I used the 03/04 Cobra intake tube. It is shorter, and as a matter of fact a bit short of the stock airbox location so expect to be purchasing a MAF adapter, spacer, and cone to make it work even with the Cobra tube. Otherwise, an aftermarket CAI setup like JLT or others may work but you should be sure it will fit. The CAI setup I have now utilizes the panel filter and a section of the old box. It is janky in a major way, but works for now until I get the CAI setup this next weekend. I simply wasn't prepared with the above mentioned items and my ideas of how everything would fit were off a bit lol. The wires for the IAT have to be extended so the connector reaches the new location on the Cobra tube.

*The Mark VIII gaskets for the IMRCs will work fine with the Cobra intake because the port design is identical. The Mark VIII iac valve is also a direct swap.

*I have yet to tidy up the vacuum lines under the hood, so this part of the swap I can't really get into detail yet, but what I can say is that the vacuum ports on the upper lid of the Cobra intake are in all new locations compared to the stock intake so some vacuum lines and "tees" and/or "elbows" are needed. Vacuum lines need to be re-routed and extended in most cases. As long as all of your vacuum lines are being utilized on the upper lid, you're golden. The challenging part is rerouting them all and making everything look "stock" but it's not that tough if you put some thinking power into it.

* I used the stock fuel rails, but it was a very tight fit. The fuel pressure regulator on the driver's side butts up against the egr delete plate. If you are utilizing your EGR valve, you must use the Cobra rails, and in that case some splicing of the fuel lines is required and my buddy was hesitant on that. For now I am holding onto them and may use them in the future.
 
As for the headers. The Gen2's have air injection bungs on front of both headers that Gen1's don't. I also "think" EGR port on drivers header are in different spots.
 
Thanks DLF that should help alot and now I just have to round up the parts. I'm trying to get all these parts installed before I order my SCT tuner from Mark 8 muscle. Now I need to figure out what need's to change to make the headers work for my gen 2 and maybe I gather up parts or have to welded on headers.
 
Thanks DLF that should help alot and now I just have to round up the parts. I'm trying to get all these parts installed before I order my SCT tuner from Mark 8 muscle. Now I need to figure out what need's to change to make the headers work for my gen 2 and maybe I gather up parts or have to welded on headers.
I thought alot of Gen2 guys don't even run that air pump?
 
I thought alot of Gen2 guys don't even run that air pump?

I've removed mine. Two reasons: getting to the crank pulley when I do underdrives(it's smack dab in the way) and I have no catalytic converters so it serves no purpose.

snake hunter, take care of welding the bungs shut now on the headers because removing the air injection after the fact and trying to get to those bungs without removing the headers again is nearly if not completely impossible. The headers are a tight fit but drop in without any steering shaft modifications.

And +2 DLF definitely has a cleaner install than I do.
 
So the headers are good to go the way they are? I live in a county in Georgia that makes me have emissions if that matters.
 
... and you will need cats for emissions testing.

Depends if his state requires a visual inspection of emissions devices for tampering. Here in Nevada for example if a 95 or older vehicle, or 96+ heavy duty vehicle was physically missing any devices... (air injection, egr, cats, fuel restrictor, gas cap) or if they appear to be not functional (not hooked up, missing vacuum lines, no belt on the air pump, missing hoses, rounded out restrictor, cracked or missing gas cap o-ring) it will fail a emissions test for failing the visual section.

However out here if a vehicle is 96+ light duty it just has to pass a check engine light functionality test, obd2 test, and visual smoke test. None of the devices are visually inspected, and even if the tech is savvy enough to notice they aren't there they can't fail you for it being gone. Basically if the computer says it's good it has to be.

The only time you get in hot **** with a newer vehicle out here is if you have an illegal engine (jdm for example) or blatantly wrong engine in the vehicle (cross branding, additional cylinders, etc.) without proper approved engine swap paper work from the local dmv.
 
I know last year I took it to the emissions place he didn't crank up the car to check it and told me it passed with flying colors. I ask him why he didn't have to crank it and let it run on the machine and go threw the gears like he has on my truck in the past. He said you don't have to the computer tells him everything he needs so maybe I'll be okay.
 
I know last year I took it to the emissions place he didn't crank up the car to check it and told me it passed with flying colors. I ask him why he didn't have to crank it and let it run on the machine and go threw the gears like he has on my truck in the past. He said you don't have to the computer tells him everything he needs so maybe I'll be okay.

If you remove or mess with ANYTHING that causes a CEL you will not pass. To pass here in NH all they do is hook up to OBD11 port and read car computer if everything is cool. If it find CEL or that you are not OBD11 ready it will fail. OBD11 ready means car has not popped a CEL in last 75 miles. People think they can clear CEL and go for inspection. NOPE!
 
im telling you now you will not pass with the setup your planning.period.you got a lazy state employee last time.if they get under there and look your screwed before you start.
 
I always have gone to the same emissions guy for the last 10 years and he goes by the book and is a honest old guy. What parts do I need to buy to take with me to the muffler shop if anyone knows and I will buy it. Cash is not a problem I'm just unsure and don't want my car down for several days waiting on last minute parts or have to remove headers to do unexpected welding after install. Also I'd like some opinions on good performance mufflers that are quiet during normal highway traveling. My F-150 and Fairlane have loud exhaust and that's not what want on the Mark
 
Id pass test first then change. When we had emissions here I just swapped out the headers and intake setup on my 5.0 but that only took about. Two hours. You will need to use all of your current emissions equipment which means modifying headers to work with air pump and egr then have it tuned to pass if it does.you are changing all the variables the computer uses to run clean not to mention changing the whole catalytic system. A reputable speed shop should be able to rig it to pass then you'll have to retune for performance
 
Just sell me your headers :D

j/k... ok actually im not kidding

lol




lmao @ gr81's avatar... thats good stuff!!!
 
Just picked up everything needed for the intake swap from Mark 8 Muscle and hope to start this weekend if my mechanic can get around to it. I got to see the six speed car with terminator bumper and all I can say is WOW.
 
Just picked up everything needed for the intake swap from Mark 8 Muscle and hope to start this weekend if my mechanic can get around to it. I got to see the six speed car with terminator bumper and all I can say is WOW.

You're gonna love the full exhaust/headers and Cobra intake combo. :cool: Might I suggest getting a tune and also raising your shift points for optimal results with that intake. Air/Fuel ratios will also of course need to be addressed for best results. The Cobra intake breathes WAAAY better than the stocker, especially with full exhaust. I am getting a dyno in a very short time here and with my combo, I found out that my 6100 and 6300 rpm shift points were still a bit shy of getting the car down the track like I wanted it to. I was shifting at 6600-6700 rpms at the track and even with the chit tune I have it pulled very hard.

Your results may vary, but stock shift points will not get you the most out of that intake. It is a higher rpm intake.

Good luck and have fun! :D
 
since i had my new tranny done with valve body mod and i set my 1-2, and 2-3 shift pressure to race,and raised points 200 rpm i cant really tell on the tach where it shifts but it looks like around 62-6500 rpm. but it shifts (and ill use a recent quote here) "NOW". but at part throttle it will bark the tires before 6000. actually it will bark anywheres from 3500-5500 with the stock rear. i have yet to get to the dyno im really interested to know where the power curve is as well as the total power, Kirk do you think adding more fuel to the a/f ratio should be done since ive got the 80mm mass airand the new cams? since it can breathe more now and the read on the CEL says lean condition, i believe it was code 1131 i cant remember but what say you about adding more fuel?
 
since i had my new tranny done with valve body mod and i set my 1-2, and 2-3 shift pressure to race,and raised points 200 rpm i cant really tell on the tach where it shifts but it looks like around 62-6500 rpm. but it shifts (and ill use a recent quote here) "NOW". but at part throttle it will bark the tires before 6000. actually it will bark anywheres from 3500-5500 with the stock rear. i have yet to get to the dyno im really interested to know where the power curve is as well as the total power, Kirk do you think adding more fuel to the a/f ratio should be done since ive got the 80mm mass airand the new cams? since it can breathe more now and the read on the CEL says lean condition, i believe it was code 1131 i cant remember but what say you about adding more fuel?

It's hard to say without getting the car datalogged/dynoed, but I would guess yes. You're definitely adding a bit more air to the equation. CobrastarLSC who used to post here and had an intake swapped Gen2 with JLT cai, exhaust, and 4.10 gears had more fuel added on the dyno because he was running out of fuel. Since you have the addition of cams, that is probably going to bump up your curve. I know DLF has a thread on here somewhere concerning some tuning issues that he had to address when he datalogged his car after the intake swap. The bottom line here really is if you do the intake swap, get it re-tuned for optimal results.
 

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