kooks header install help

k9t8m

Rollin' Twankies
Joined
May 3, 2004
Messages
5,620
Reaction score
47
Location
Peoria, L-inoise
Im about halfway through my kooks header install and an wanting a few pointers from you guys that have already installed them with the motor in the car.

This is what I have done so far:

supported motor dropped the subframe
removed the pass side cat and exhaust manifold
installed the pass side header (except rear top manifold bolt) < need advice
drivers side manifold is loose
egr hardware is stuck, i hanvt had a go with the torch, im hoping that does the trick


I can honestly say had i known this was going to be so difficult there is no way I would have taken this project on.

Can someone give me some advice as to how to get to the rear top of pass side?

Any tricks other than heat to get the egr loose from the drivers manifold?
 
I'll take them off your hands if ya change your mind :D, anyways havent done headers on a mark but many other cars. Spray some pb blaster on the egr threads and let sit for 24hrs than apply heat but be careful the firewall pad doesnt catch.
 
All my EGR stuff needed torch for sure. Even with that I still snapped my tube in Ice car. The pass upper rear header bolt took me along time to get in and tightened.(with AC in) If you can do your own AC work its super easy from top if AC stuff is out. I was like wow that was easy.
 
Heat for sure, I cant image you have much for rust.
I must have been lucky, mine came right off.
 
It snows a ton where he is from and where i'm from RUST.

We're from minnisnowda and live in salt-liquidclorideville... Lol
The motor I took apart on the stand took heat on the egr and air injection tubes, that motor had 53k on it; in the car would be interesting but not impossible. That front bolt on the pass side would be much easier with the ac out of the way as frank mentioned.
 
We're from minnisnowda and live in salt-liquidclorideville... Lol
The motor I took apart on the stand took heat on the egr and air injection tubes, that motor had 53k on it; in the car would be interesting but not impossible. That front bolt on the pass side would be much easier with the ac out of the way as frank mentioned.

Rear bolt. Front are easy to get to. Its the AC alum hard lines and that black egg looking thing on firewall that block view.
 
Air injection is getting deleted, but the egr is not. I was going to try to find out if the egr is still available in case the heat doesnt work and it breaks.

I wont have time to work on the car again until wed night after work, so ill try heat then and see how that works.

It sounds like my best bet will be to remove the ac canister to get to the top rear pass, so ill prob do that wed too.

My next couple weekends r pretty busy so ill only get to work on the car a couple hours here and there.






Thanks for all the help everyone. If there are any tips that you guys remember about the drivers side that may help with installation let me know.
 
Rear bolt. Front are easy to get to. Its the AC alum hard lines and that black egg looking thing on firewall that block view.

That makes more sense, I was trying to remember how far that AC manifold came out before it curved up.
I don't think the egr is available anymore, take your time and work it loose. Pretty easy to ring off if you wrench on it hard.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top