It won't stay cool

deaconlew

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I have a '97 Continental, 4.6 V8. It overheats. I have been trying to find a schematic of the cooling system but can't find one. My immediate thought was thermostat or some clog in the system. I can't find where the thermostat is located 1, and 2, I can't purchase it at my local parts store (Autozone) not available. In my troubleshooting, I have determined that of the two hoses that are on the top of the engine on the right side, one of them is a "send" hose that draws water into the system and the other is a "return".
On the send I put my garden hose into it and the water seemed to circulate, being indicated by the water coming our of the pipe where the hose belonged; no clog. I reconnect the send hose to the car. I check the resevoir and it is full. I take off and it over heats. What are the possible reasons for the failure. Thanks

-deaconlew
 
The Continental cooling system is very similar to the cooling system in the Mark VIII. The single biggest overheat problem for the Mark VIII is improper fill procedure. The system MUST be filled properly at the coolant crossover tube to eliminate air pockets in the cooling system.

1. Engine off. Remove coolant reservoir cap and coolant fill plug at crossover tube.
2. Fill system thru the crossover tube until the coolant reservoir is full. Replace coolant resevoir cap.
3. Start engine and run at idle with heater set to HI. Fill coolant system at crossover tube until completely full. Replace fill plug.
4. Run engine until up to operating temperature.
5. Shut down and allow to cool.
6. Top off the coolant reservoir as required to bring the level up to the full cold level.
 
I would also check to see if the fan is turning on. I had a problem where the car would only overheat in traffic because the fan wasn't turning on. Connected 12V directly to the fan and found out it was working so it had something to do with the relay or the temperature switch.
 
I have followed the instructions for filling. IF I drive the car at or around 75 MPh it will climb slightly and not get hot. If I drive at or around 75 MPH with the A/C on it will climb to the "H."

When the engine is running, and the drain plug is off, I can see the fluid moving to the left of the engine (toward the heater core) immediately. There is some steam coming out (not much though) of the opening (drain plug). This seems to indicate that either the water is circulating before the t-stat is opening or the t-stat is tuck open. What damage/harm will this cause?

I do not understand the pressurized system. When the pressure is built up does it draw water from the resevoir and put hot water back in it to cool off? The resevoir cap is rated at 16lbs. Is that too much or not enough?

When the system is hot and I loosen the resevoir cap, it cools off (although some of the coolant has just been released).

The heater does not work. If the water is circulating, why doesn't the heater work? There is no indication that the water is leaking anywhere, the floor is not wet, there is not the distinguished odor of anti-freeze in the cabin area, nothing. Except this mystery.

IF the heads where damaged (warped) shouldn't there be oil in the water or vice versa?

Even after I fill the system, drive to work (54 miles away in Dallas traffic), when I leave for home, the resevoir is always empty.

Lew
 
Last edited:
deaconlew said:
The heater does not work. If the water is circulating, why doesn't the heater work? There is no indication that the water is leaking anywhere, the floor is not wet, there is not the distinguished odor of anti-freeze in the cabin area, nothing. Except this mystery.

You have an airlock in the heater core. Most likely the stock T-stat does not have a bleed hole. A bleed hole in the T-stat allows for much easier 'burping' of the system.

You must run the heater on max WHILE filling at the crossover tube until you deem there is warmth exiting from the heater indicating flow. This is messy... it will overflow. You may find clamping a extension hose to the neck will help.

The flow you see now is internal of the engine and not through the radiator/T-stat. The T-stat regulates the flow through the radiator.

IMHO, you might consider taking it to a reputable dealer for a coolant flush and fill and a new T-stat and hoses. This will force them to evacuate the system and start anew.
 
driller said:
You have an airlock in the heater core. Most likely the stock T-stat does not have a bleed hole. A bleed hole in the T-stat allows for much easier 'burping' of the system.

You must run the heater on max WHILE filling at the crossover tube until you deem there is warmth exiting from the heater indicating flow. This is messy... it will overflow. You may find clamping a extension hose to the neck will help.

The flow you see now is internal of the engine and not through the radiator/T-stat. The T-stat regulates the flow through the radiator.

IMHO, you might consider taking it to a reputable dealer for a coolant flush and fill and a new T-stat and hoses. This will force them to evacuate the system and start anew.

Thanks for all the info. It has been determined that the head gasket is blown. :slam

Since I will be taking the engine apart what are my options for heads, or should I post in the drive train forum? :feedback

-Lew
 
deaconlew said:
Thanks for all the info. It has been determined that the head gasket is blown. :slam

Since I will be taking the engine apart what are my options for heads, or should I post in the drive train forum? :feedback

-Lew

I would take it to the drivetrain forum with a new thread.

BTW, you will pay big time... but if it were me, I would simply have the stocks heads agressively ported and polished. Good luck.
 

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