IRS Sub-Frame Bolt Removal

DLF

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That is a good idea, was the hole big enough for a grinder to get in there and cut the head off? I know I will be running into this problem when I get enough courage to do this someday soon.

You can drill whatever size hole you want. ;) I drilled 2" holes, which were more than big enough for what I did.

Yeah, I suppose that you could get a dremel in there, but then you'd need to replace both the nut and the bolt, which is discontinued.
 

Roadboss

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Doug
With all those neat projects you get into you should get setup with a local outfit that can Cadmium plate your parts (including the old ones like above). It's not overly expensive, and the results are superior (rust protection, appearance, and functionality of fastener). Thanks for sharing a great how to on a nasty problem.
 

Marcus

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There are a few of the bolts still available at various dealers, even though they're discontinued. Confirmed with Max today. $52 for a bag of 2! :eek: N805747-S100. Not even a part number listed for nuts though.

I'm heading to Jeremi's tomorrow to tackle this. Not looking forward to it. BTW, you got a source for the plugs you intend to use?
 

Marcus

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BTW, Are you reusing the stock rubber bushings or are you installing your delrin ones? I didn't see it mentioned but maybe I missed it.
 

DLF

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There are a few of the bolts still available at various dealers, even though they're discontinued. Confirmed with Max today. $52 for a bag of 2! :eek: N805747-S100. Not even a part number listed for nuts though.

I'm heading to Jeremi's tomorrow to tackle this. Not looking forward to it. BTW, you got a source for the plugs you intend to use?

BTW, Are you reusing the stock rubber bushings or are you installing your delrin ones? I didn't see it mentioned but maybe I missed it.

Stock rubber in this car.

I ordered these plugs and got them today:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

They fit a bit loose, so they're held in with Black Silicone.

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HPIM2982.jpg
 
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chicken

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i had the same issue on a old t bird i was working on years ago, i used the taurus recall kit, (for when the subframe bolts would break ask any ford parts guy thats been around for 10 years he will know) it had 2 nice long bolts, 2 good nutplates, and even the big rubber plugs
 

cammerfe

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FWIW, although I've never done this particular job, I've had similar fastener replacement situations in the past. One good example is the bolts that hold a R&P steering in place on Fox-body cars. Buying the bolts from the dealer is ridiculous in that they cost about $25 each. I latched onto the idea of using stainless steel all-thread, with the nylock nuts at both ends. Here in the Detroit Metro area there are enough 'bolt stores' around that it's no trick to find hardened all-thread and nuts. Not only does this take care of the corrosion problem, but a three-foot section of the all-thread is significantly cheaper than two bolts and the nuts from the dealer.

KS
 

chris2523

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i had the same issue on a old t bird i was working on years ago, i used the taurus recall kit, (for when the subframe bolts would break ask any ford parts guy thats been around for 10 years he will know) it had 2 nice long bolts, 2 good nutplates, and even the big rubber plugs

you can actually buy those recall kits from RCM Automotive.
very cool kit.

http://www.rcmautomotive.com/id22.html

shov6frontsubframemountrecallkit.jpg


24.99- 1989-95 FORD subframe mount recall kit
Includes:
(2) subframe bolts
(2) HD improved captive nuts
(2) HD plate washers (not used with our HD bushings above)
(2) hole plugs (to plug top access holes for replacing captive nuts)
Detailed instructions
Designed for rear subframe mounts, but hardware can be used at front mounts also
Made in USA (OEM Ford)
 

Thx_1138a

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DLF,
In post #10 the first picture shows a sawzall making short work of a stuck bolt. I did the same thing while liberating an IRS from a Mark VIII (by hacksaw).

Where do I get replacement bushings and sleeves for the ones I cut up?

Can I buy these at the Ford dealer, parts stores, or is it another trip to the junkyard to try and get an undamaged one ??

Jim
 

driller

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Can I buy these at the Ford dealer, parts stores, or is it another trip to the junkyard to try and get an undamaged one ??

Jim

I have these part numbers saved on my lists...

Moog IRS bushings
(4) B7A4662A Spacer
(2) E9SZ5D006A Front
(2) E9SZ5D006B Rear
 

DLF

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DLF,
In post #10 the first picture shows a sawzall making short work of a stuck bolt. I did the same thing while liberating an IRS from a Mark VIII (by hacksaw).

Where do I get replacement bushings and sleeves for the ones I cut up?

Can I buy these at the Ford dealer, parts stores, or is it another trip to the junkyard to try and get an undamaged one ??

Jim

Obsolete. :(

I have these part numbers saved on my lists...

Moog IRS bushings
(4) B7A4662A Spacer
(2) E9SZ5D006A Front
(2) E9SZ5D006B Rear

Ford p/n's, not Moog.

The stock sub-frame mounts consist of three part numbers, all of which are obsolete:

E9SZ-5D006-A (bushing front-2 required)
E9SZ-5D006-B (bushing rear-2 required)
E9SZ-5D001-A (upper retainer-4 required)

The bolts (N805747S100) are also obsolete.

B7A4662A comes up as a pinion crush sleeve? :confused:
 

driller

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Obsolete. :(



Ford p/n's, not Moog.

The stock sub-frame mounts consist of three part numbers, all of which are obsolete:

E9SZ-5D006-A (bushing front-2 required)
E9SZ-5D006-B (bushing rear-2 required)
E9SZ-5D001-A (upper retainer-4 required)

The bolts (N805747S100) are also obsolete.

B7A4662A comes up as a pinion crush sleeve? :confused:

I guess I can throw that list away! :shifty:
 

Marcus

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As I stated earlier in the thread, the bolts (N805747-S100) may be obsolete, but they're still available. I confirmed with Max just a couple of weeks ago. They're just expensive as hell (retail $100 for 4). The size is M12X1.75X129.5 and grade 10.9 which is available elsewhere though.
 

Thx_1138a

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All,

I used the search engine :)eek: a NEWBie :eek:) and found a lot of references to strut bushings; very little about rear bushings. I also found out that MN12 Performance closed their doors. I don't need the bolts, but the inverted pie-plate {E9SZ-5D001-A (upper retainer-4 required)} and the rubber part (more correctly the steel insert) will definitely need replaced on at least one corner. But that led me to another search discovery....

DLF, you're holding out on me - You seem to be the guy that MAKES replacements. I'm actually surprised and impressed that you didn't use that opportunity to drum up a little business. The pics I found of your bushings appear to show that they replace the bushing itself and the upper retainer. Yes/No?? Sooooo, what does a set of those run?

What about all the other rubber bushings in the IRS assembly ??? Are they obsolete too? I guess that would be upper and lower control arms (both ends), sway bar mounts (not end links) and the differential mounts. Did I miss any?

Sorry for the long post. IRS is a new ballgame to me.

Thanks,
Jim
 

DLF

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All,

I used the search engine :)eek: a NEWBie :eek:) and found a lot of references to strut bushings; very little about rear bushings. I also found out that MN12 Performance closed their doors. I don't need the bolts, but the inverted pie-plate {E9SZ-5D001-A (upper retainer-4 required)} and the rubber part (more correctly the steel insert) will definitely need replaced on at least one corner. But that led me to another search discovery....

DLF, you're holding out on me - You seem to be the guy that MAKES replacements. I'm actually surprised and impressed that you didn't use that opportunity to drum up a little business. The pics I found of your bushings appear to show that they replace the bushing itself and the upper retainer. Yes/No?? Sooooo, what does a set of those run?

What about all the other rubber bushings in the IRS assembly ??? Are they obsolete too? I guess that would be upper and lower control arms (both ends), sway bar mounts (not end links) and the differential mounts. Did I miss any?

Sorry for the long post. IRS is a new ballgame to me.

Thanks,
Jim

MN12 Performance has been gone for quite a while now. :rolleyes:

The Stock Ford IRS bushing and the steel insert are fused together, it's a single assembly, they're not separate parts.

I MADE performance replacements, but I'm not going to make any more unless a few people get together and pre-pay, they're just too hard and expensive to make, just to have them sit around in boxes. And I wouldn't recommend them for use in a daily driver.

Mark VIII LCA bushings aren't available, however, I make a Delrin Bushing Kit.

While the upper Knuckle bushings are available, I don't believe that the two lower bushings are. There are Poly bushings kits available for the Knuckles, but I wouldn't recommend them, they don't last. Again, I make a Delrin Bushing Kit.

The inner UCA bushings are available (Moog K8562). Poly replacements for the forward diff mounts are available and recommended (Energy Suspension 4.1126).

I also make sway bar mount kits that use ES bushings.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=62344

You can click the links under my signature for more info.

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HPIM1331s.jpg
 

40thtbird

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I have a 1995 Thunderbird So I got the assembly apart but I had to cut the bolt in order to drop it down, but now I can't find replacement parts! Ford has discontinued the bushings, bolts everything. Anyone know of a place to get these parts or anywhere they custom manufacture? The original Ford numbers are E9SZ5D006A for the front insulators & E9SZ5DOO6B for the rear insulators & B7A4662A for the bushings
 

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