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All the other speakers work sides rear 2
Yeah - me too - if you find a solution, post it up. I've been hunting for weeks.
amp probably died...
wish it were that simple - tried another working (stock lincoln) amp - no dice. My current theory is that the remote turn on signal isn't coming from the stock head unit...
Well, that's easy enough to measure and confirm or rule out. How about the subs themselves? They are fairly well known to fail. Note that with the factory amp, if one sub fails (or is unplugged), it will barely drive the remaining sub.
yeah - it seems as though I have continuity in the wire between the dash and trunk for remote turn on - that's a tough reach with a meter! but it did show continuity most of the time in my rigged up test! There's no real way to test the output of the head unit AFAIK other than the system self test - no codes thrown. both subs thump with a 1.5 volt cell, so they "simple tested" ok - one of the connectors is a little janky (wire tied on - the PO had some sort of aftermarket system in) - will check the wiring on that connector again. Thanks for the tip, Joegr
honestly, after testing that one connector tonight if that fails, I'm probably just going to replace the head, maybe the speakers and add a powered sub and be done with it....stereos are cheap enough these days.
You are over complicating it. Turn the radio on. Measure the voltage between the amp turn-on signal (at the sub amp) and ground. If I remember correctly, it will be a little over 7 volts. If it's less than 6 volts, it's the problem.
it's zero volts back at the sub amp harness on that pin, joe....that's absolutely the problem - the question is why? - lack of continuity in the wire? seems not, or something in the head unit...seems so. If I jump the constant power to the turn on, I get a thump....that's good, but it wants 7, not 12+ volts....could put a resistor in, but that's gonna leave the amp on all the time, so not a great workaround. It's as if there's a setting in the head unit that is switched to 'sub amp off'....
This is the factory head unit that we are talking about? Do you have center console speakers? If so, do they work? If "yes" to both, then you could route the turn-on signal to the center amp to the sub amp as well. If you jump constant power (via a resistor) to the turn-on pin on the amp, you will run the battery down. You could jump switched power (one of the accessory circuits) via a resistor to the turn-on pin.
Yes, and yes - that's an idea...easy to try too...
Any solution yet
been busy - haven't tried anything - how about you?
I'm pretty sure I'm using a 12v>5v converter for the turn on signal (from an aftermarket radio) and the amp definitely turns on
naw ,, i miss my rear speakers in the back working, my car sounds like ass crack right now
How are the acoustics?
Work fine. Jus gonna get a sub and wire them to that it's 55 here In Iowa
Ended up putting a new head unit in - connected up the 2 subwoofers with the Metra harness - the front ambient ones work just fine as they did before. Still nothing back at the harness under the rear deck other than 12v constant power. There has to be something disconnected or cut somewhere on this car - Gave up fiddling with it and put in a cheap Bazooka BTA850FH which worked out just fine - it's no powerhouse sub, but 100% perfectly adequate for my purposes. Took less than an hour to install, and sounds great.