Help Needed: Detonation OBDII codes !

[Crownvic]

Hi folks,


The code readout on my 99 Continental shows these error codes: P0325 / P1000 / P1131


My mechanic says to just drive it this way because its probably a defective sensor and the parts cost too much and serve no real purpose other than enriching the dealership. But passengers freak out with the engine light lit up and I want to make sure it won't hurt the engine. From what I've learned, the Marauders which have an almost identical engine suffer the most damage from detonation issues leading to blown cylinders.


Thanks for your advice. Searching online I found the following:


P1000 is not actually a trouble code. It just means that the Readiness code has not been set yet or in other words, the engine computer hasn't completed testing certain emission control components. If there is no other problems with the car emission system, the code P1000 will disappear after driving for some time (the drive cycle must include idling, stop and go traffic, acceleration and steady cruising).


P0325 OBD-II Trouble Code means a knock sensor tells the engine computer when one or more of your engine's cylinders are "knocking", that is, exploding the air/fuel mixture in a way that delivers less power and can be damaging to the engine if prolonged. The computer uses this information to tune the engine so that it doesn't knock. If your knock sensor wasn't operating properly, so that it was always indicating a knock, the engine computer's response may have been to change the ignition timing on your engine. Knock sensors generally bolt into or thread into the engine block. This P0325 code may show up intermittently or the Service Engine light may be lit constantly.


P1131 means a Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1


Do you know if there's an easy fix rather than visiting the dealership and coming out half a grand lighter? Could it be a vacuum leak? Some here have tried sea foam for that, but I don't know what that is or how they used it.


TIA.


Vic

 

[1bad4.6l]

Your mechanic is a moron.

 

[Crownvic]

Needing a Repair Strategy: 1st try this, 2nd try that, etc.

Your mechanic is a moron.

Hi 1bad,


I wouldn't say that. It's more like I am. He maybe said something else and I was too slow or clueless to catch on. I think he said it was due to a bad switch in the manifold, as these have a tendency to go on these cars after the 100k mark, and that it isn't worth spending $300 bucks on the part. He cleared the codes and it worked a few days before lighting back up.


Thanks if you've got something to suggest other than changing mechanics: I'm figuring on trying to fix it myself rather than pay lord knows how many hours of their precious diagnostics time plus more cash on new parts which probably don't need changing.


TIA


Vic

 

[1bad4.6l]

 

[Crownvic]

End of thread

OK, I'll resume. It was last fall. The car was in winter storage inside a car jacket. This is why I don't remember exactly what he said, other than it wasn't urgent, but he was overloaded with work and couldn't deal with it. I unzipped the car, it drove a hundred miles fine, and then the light went on. I'll take it to the local performance shop, but it's going to cost a bundle. I'm done with the dealership. The Lincoln dealers' sales guys are as good people get, but their shop works harder at milking service customers than at fixing cars. Funny, its usually the other way around.


So I thank you for your kind reply. From what I've understood from your comments is that it is either a vacuum leak, or an airflow sensor, or a catalytic converter feedback?


And thanks for the kind greeting, which is always appreciated. Cheers,


Vic