Going in Limp home mode home but no apparent codes related to it...

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DaveLS

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Hey everybody, I own a 2004 Lincoln ls and in the past days my car went into the limp home mode 2-3 times which was enough to piss me off heavy. I also noticed that every time I've went into that limp home mode it was after 9 o'clock pm when the temperature is lower and it happened almost just as soon as I started my car and pulled off. ( I don't know if it could make a difference. ) So my friend came threw yesterday with his scanner to see what is causing the limp home mode to go on. Three codes appeared:

p2136 - Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited Power. I've red a little bit on this codes and it seems to be related to the transmission and therefore not likely the be related to my problem. (I am not an expert in mechanics but that's my opinion.)

p0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2. The definition pretty much say what the problem all about. Still not the cause of my problem with the limp home mode going on in my opinion.

c1236 - Speed Wheel Left Rear Input Signal Missing. I had the abs/traction control light going on and off for more than a week but had no major issues with that.

SO, with all this being said, I don't have a clue what could cause the limp home mode to go on and that's why I am asking you guys if you would have a clue of what could cause this. Thanks for your help !!
 
Wait, you've got the codes right there.

P2136 - ETC failsafe - this is the "limp home mode." It's not at all related to the transmission!
C1236 - Note that the ETC uses info from the ABS wheel speed sensors. It's actually possible that this is what is causing failsafe.

The most common cause for ETC failsafe is marginal COPs (ignition coils). Not coincidentally, the most common cause for catalytic converter problems on the LS is also marginal coils. Note that eventually, the catalytic converters can/will clog and that will stop the engine from running.

I strongly advise you to replace all your COPs (with OEM) and all you spark plugs - now. You should also long into that wheel sensor.
 
I thought about that but the engine is made in a way that I need to take off the head of the engine to replace coils/spark plugs ( I know that's not the name but you can see what I am talking about ) and I don't have much money right now got to pay for my college fees and some other bullish... The code is p2106 and not p2136 I don't know if both are the same I am not an expert. Joegr, is there an alternative of taking of all head of the engine ( I've red it takes hours...) or perhaps trying something else before replacing the coils.. Thanks bud !
 
joegr said:
Wait, you've got the codes right there.

P2136 - ETC failsafe - this is the "limp home mode." It's not at all related to the transmission!
.
Click to expand...

My mistake Joegr the code that appeared was p2106 and not p2136. Actually after reading on etc failsafe I thought that was the code that was going to be showed but it didn't.
 
More or less the same.
Will you have the money for the $1,600 catalytic converters (doesn't include installation).

It's the top half of the intake manifold that has to come off (I am assuming you have the V6, since this isn't required for the V8).
 
joegr said:
More or less the same.
Will you have the money for the $1,600 catalytic converters (doesn't include installation).

It's the top half of the intake manifold that has to come off (I am assuming you have the V6, since this isn't required for the V8).
Click to expand...



Yes it's the v6 and no I don't have 1600$. I saw a magnaflow cat back, in another post, for the v8 at 500$. Is there that much of a difference between the price of a v8 to a v6??
 
DaveLS said:
Yes it's the v6 and no I don't have 1600$. I saw a magnaflow cat back, in another post, for the v8 at 500$. Is there that much of a difference between the price of a v8 to a v6??
Click to expand...

One of us doesn't understand.
My understanding is that the "cat back" does not include the catalytic converters. You would be replacing your mufflers and plumbing that has no problems. You would still need to replace the catalytic converters. Is this not correct?
 
You can say I don't understand its not a big deal. Car mecanic is not my department... Would I be better off being catalytic converters from a ford dealership or online? If online, do you have a website you know have good prices for good parts?
 
http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/
and
http://www.tascaparts.com/
are two good places.
You are getting ahead of yourself. You will just destroy the new catalytic converters if the ignition problems have not been corrected first. Were it me, I would replace all the coils and plugs first. You may find that your cats still have a few miles left before they must be replaced.

And, I really am uncertain about the cat back question. I don't dabble in exhaust alterations. If anything, I'd like for it to be a little quieter.
 
Should I start by fixing my abs code ( c1236)?. Because like you said its possible that was the cause of the etc failsafe and if it is I would save a lot of labor and parts money.
 
DaveLS said:
Should I start by fixing my abs code ( c1236)?.Because like you said its possible that was the cause of the etc failsafe and if it is I would save a lot of labor and parts money.
Click to expand...

I guess you could, but wheels speed sensors do not affect the catalytic converters... so if you are having misfires you could cause more damage to stuff and the price of repair will sky rocket.

I would do coils plugs and the wheel speed sensor all at the same time... while yes, the maintenance of this car can be very expensive, not fixing stuff right and in a timely manner can cause someone to have to file for bankruptcy!

joegr said:
My understanding is that the "cat back" does not include the catalytic converters.
Click to expand...
this is absolutely correct, "cat back" exhaust systems only replace everything after the converters. they bolt right up to the cats (or the piping flange just after) and have new pipes back to the new mufflers and then new exhaust tips.


(not directed at Joe) our exhaust systems come in three main pieces (like most modern cars) there are the headers > catalytic converters > and mufflers sections.a lot of times because of their size, the cat back section might have another set of flanges to separate the mufflers from the longer center section to be able to move it around a little more. and a lot of these cars can also get "axle back" systems
 
DaveLS said:
You can say I don't understand its not a big deal. Car mecanic is not my department... Would I be better off being catalytic converters from a ford dealership or online? If online, do you have a website you know have good prices for good parts?
Click to expand...

If you're not confident doing basic maintenance or pretty good mechanically I would not attempt this yourself. I'm pretty good turning wrenches and my best time is 3 hours; that's after 3 coil/plug changes.
 
DaveLS said:
Hey Joegr I was wondering if you could help me on this one. If I order everything on this link ( 2 parts) : http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-part...v6-gas-engine/ignition-cat/ignition-coil-scat
am I good for the whole ignition coils replacement( I already have my sparkplugs ) or I need other parts like ignition coil wire which is not displayed on the link I just put up. Thanks bud.
Click to expand...

You only needs the coils, they come with boots.
You will need some dielectric grease (often also known as brake caliper grease).

Since you have a V6, there are also some gaskets that you should probably get, and I would replace the PCV valve and some of that plumbing while I had the top half of the manifold off.
 
Usually the garage should have this dieletric grease right?

So I only need to buy the direct ignition coils, the coil boot should already be included in the direct ignition coils.

What part should I change in your opinion? If you could do a little quick list would be great!
 
Search on here for the typical V6 issues with intake manifold gaskets and o-rings, and with the V6 PCV system.
 
Hey buddy just recieved the parts I needed and I was wondering since I am removing the battery ground cable, TPS and some other ``electronic`` parts, Do I need to update (reboot) my PCM once I am finished or I don't need to do so? I am asking you this because I red some threads on people changing they're TPS and afterwards they needed to update (reboot) they're PCM.
 
updating and rebooting a computer are completely different things.

as long as those "other electronic parts" are not any of the major computers and just sensors, it should be plug and play...






also it is "their" as in people having possession of a TPS, not they are...
 
Just for the record...
Turning the key off and back on is a "warm" reboot. Happens every time you use the car.
Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery cable is a "cold" reboot. This is almost never required.
 
1LoudLS said:
also it is "their" as in people having possession of a TPS, not they are...
Click to expand...

As you could have seen i'm from Quebec therefore I'm french. This explain some of my typing mistakes.

Thanks a lot to both of you guys for the help and tips. I'll keep y'all updated when I'm finished doing the work. Hope it will resolve my problem !
 
Some good news and 1 bad news... Everything worked out fine got my IM off and change plugs/coils, IM gaskets, o-rings, etc.. successfully. Here's the thing tho, when I was putting back my IM back on I was tightening my IM bolts a lot when I heard a loud nose. I think I snapped one of my IM bolts... Afterwards I check if the bolt was loose but still seemed really tight. Should I be concerned about what I think is a snapped IM bolt or it's not a big deal?? I stopped the installation process to ask you guys the question in case I needed to take the IM off again for X reason.

I also asked myself if it would been possible that I over tighten the bolt and by doing so the bolt would a went too deep and perhaps went threw one of the engine composant underneath...

Thanks in advance for the help guys!
 
You are supposed to tighten them to a particular torque value (use a torque wrench) and tighten them in a particular sequence. Otherwise, you may damage the either or both halves of the manifold.
I can look up the details (torque and sequence) this evening.
 
joegr said:
You are supposed to tighten them to a particular torque value (use a torque wrench) and tighten them in a particular sequence. Otherwise, you may damage the either or both halves of the manifold.
I can look up the details (torque and sequence) this evening.
Click to expand...

Yes I have put the bolts in the sequence that the manual illustrated but for the torque I don't have a torque wrench so I just tighten them a lot... If I wanna look at the bolt I think I might have overtorqued should I remove all 6 of them or it is not necessary?
 
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