Getting the ol' LS Ready for the Big Trip

regiment1

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Since we're moving back to Denver from Atlanta in a few weeks, I've decided to get the ol' LS ('00, V8, 118k) in shape for the drive.

Last summer and fall:
- alternator
- aluminum t-stat housing

So far this spring:
- new sparks and Visteon COPs ($180 for the set)
- 120k transmission service
- rear differential service

Tomorrow
- new sport shocks
- new motor mounts

Wouldn't it be great if, after all this, the car drove as well as it did when we first bought it?

All told I'll probably be close to $3,500 in work in the last year. But it's still cheaper than a car payment!
 
Since we're moving back to Denver from Atlanta in a few weeks, I've decided to get the ol' LS ('00, V8, 118k) in shape for the drive.

Last summer and fall:
- alternator
- aluminum t-stat housing

So far this spring:
- new sparks and Visteon COPs ($180 for the set)
- 120k transmission service
- rear differential service

Tomorrow
- new sport shocks
- new motor mounts

Wouldn't it be great if, after all this, the car drove as well as it did when we first bought it?

All told I'll probably be close to $3,500 in work in the last year. But it's still cheaper than a car payment!

very nice,

I recently replaced my tie rods, made a huge difference in the "feel" of the car, specially at highway speeds... for $20 ea. may want to look into it.
 
Not a bad suggestion.

I forgot to mention the lower ball joints were also replaced. One shop recommend the tie rods be replaced, another recommended the UCA be replaced. They both recommended the ball joints which took a lot of slop out of the steering.
 
very nice,

I recently replaced my tie rods, made a huge difference in the "feel" of the car, specially at highway speeds... for $20 ea. may want to look into it.

tierod ends are only 20 bucks, sweet I need those
 
yep, master..something from oreilly's ... they had Moogs for around $50 IIRC..
 
master craft? I think that is their brand. How long ago did you replace them?
 
correct... Driverside was tougher.. took some work to get the threaded tie rod to break loose. I sprayed some penetrating oil on the pass side the night before and it was off and on in 5 min... VERY EASY

If you count the times you rotate the locking nut on the back. you can install the new one back to its original spot without needing an alignment. some may disagree with that, and i know it wont be perfect... but good enough for me :D
 
Dangit! I replaced my outer tie rods a couple of weeks ago and bought some from Autozone, approximately $60 a side. I always forget about O'Reilly's. I replaced both knuckles/ball joints and outer tie rod ends and the steering is defiantly different than before. I thought it was due to the lowering springs but I guess the new stuff helped out too.
The rear upper control arms are super easy, I replaced mine with my suspension redo but the fronts look a little more involved.

I had to use a torch on my outer tie rods to loosen them. Thats after a night of soaking in penetrating oil.
 
I had to use a torch on my outer tie rods to loosen them. Thats after a night of soaking in penetrating oil.

your right, i did have to heat up the drivers side with a torch to break loose... Pass side was butter though...
 
Well, the new shocks and engine mounts are in.

The car rides almost as good as new. I can't believe how sloppy things had gotten!

The car seems quieter at idle and, strangely, shifts a little firmer. I can see the quieter idle from the engine mounts, but am a bit surprised at the shifting.
 
Hey, this is getting to be like a build log.

Here's everything that's been done now:

Last summer and fall:
- alternator
- aluminum t-stat housing

So far this spring:
- new sparks and Visteon COPs ($180 for the set)
- 120k transmission service
- rear differential service
- new sport shocks
- new motor mounts
- new passenger front hub
- new front rotors
- new rear rotors
- new rear brake pads

Holy cow, I forgot how well this car could drive.
 

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