Gen 1 (00-02) Cooling Fan Removal Instructions-- LOTS OF PICTURES!!!

Lincoln LS

  1. Kid_Lyrics

    Kid_Lyrics Well-Known LVC Member

    Messages:
    383
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2016
    Location:
    Norfolk
    Hello All,

    I've removed this Hydraulic Cooling Fan enough times to write a step-by-step with clear and precise pictures.

    I told myself, that the next time that I removeit for whatever reason, that I'm doing it regardless of how much longer it would takeme.

    So, here ya go.

    For anyone who needs it.

    I hope it makes it to a sticky : )!!


    This write-up includes two different methods. They are specified in the write itself.

    Thanks.... ENJOY!!!










    ---------------------------------------
    Removing and Replacing the Hydraulic Cooling Fan and Fan Pump on a 2000-2002 Lincoln LS 3.9L V8


    Disclaimer / Warning:
    1. You may disconnect the battery at your leisure. These instructions do not include a battery disconnect.
    2. You will lose coolant (antifreeze). Make sure to have extra
    3. You will lose Hydraulic fluid (ATF Mercon V). Make sure to have extra
    4. Be knowledgeable with the cooling flush procedure. You may want to proceed with it after finishing.




    1. Open Hood
    2. Remove Engine Cover

    1.jpg


    3. Loosen Screws that secures the intake box
    3.jpg

    4. Disconnect connectors for the MAF and Intake sensor

    5. Loosen Screw that secures the intake to the throttle body
    5.jpg

    6. Remove all three hoses connected to the intake tube
    6.0.jpg
    6.1.jpg

    7. Remove Intake
    7.jpg

    8. Locate the two metal shroud spacers and remove all 6 bolts with an 8mm socket
    8.0.jpg
    8.1.jpg


    9. Be sure to place the bolts back in the holes to avoid losing them
    9.1.jpg
    9.2.jpg

    10. Locate the AC Condenser(ACC) / Use a 12mm Socket to remove the nut securing the lines to the ACC
    10.0.jpg
    10.1.jpg


    11. Place the nut back on the ACC

    12. Locate the bracket securing the ACC and remove the bolt with an 8mm socket
    12.0.jpg
    12.1.jpg
    12.2.jpg

    13. Remove the bracket and ACC (set aside)
    13.jpg


    -- Coolant loss in the next few steps
    14.0.jpg


    14. Remove the connector on the Thermostat Housing (TH) by removing it from the metal tab
    14.jpg

    15. Remove the Auxilary Cooling Pump(ACP) hose connected to the TH. (Manuever backwards and up to the left)
    15.0.jpg
    15.1.jpg
    15.2.jpg
    15.3.jpg
    15.4.jpg

    16. Disconnect the electical connector on the top of the fan shroud
    16.0.jpg
    16.1.jpg

    17. Disconnect the Radiator Cooling Outlet Tube Hose from the Radiator. (Manuever backwards and up to the left)
    17.0.jpg
    17.1.jpg
    17.2.jpg


    -- Coolant loss complete

    18.Locate and remove two 10mm bolts securing the Auxilary Pump to the fan shroud
    18.0.jpg
    18.1.jpg
    18.2.jpg
    18.3.jpg

    19. Remove AP from the shroud. A screwdriver or flat tool may be needed to budge the rubber from the plastic setting.
    19.0.jpg
    19.1.jpg

    20. Locate and remove the two 8mm bolts securing the shroud to the radiator.
    20.0.jpg
    20.1.jpg
    20.2.jpg

    The fan should now be lose enough to pull more than half-way up from the car.


    Warning: Do not pull too far, the hose and pump are still connected!!!

    20.3.jpg
    20.4.jpg
    20.5.jpg
    20.6.jpg







    --- Your situation may vary in the next few steps


    21. Locate the Cooling Fan Pump(CFP) on the rear of the fan shroud.
    21.jpg

    22. Locate and loosen the 19mm nut to remove the Hydrualic Cooling Pump(HCP) Line
    22.jpg

    ---------If you can not lossen the 19mm nut skip to steps 26 - 30 --------

    23. Locate and remove the 10mm bolt securing the HCP line to the shroud
    23.jpg

    -- Hydraulic Fluid Loss

    24. Disconnect the CFP hydralic fluid line
    24.0.jpg
    24.1.jpg
    24.2.jpg


    -- Hydraulic Fluid Loss Complete

    25. Remove Fan and shroud from the vehicle. To install, Reverse all Steps



    ------Warning: These steps are only if you can not remove your HCP line from the CFP and you are sure that your line is not clogged---------------

    26. Locate the Cooling Fan Pump(CFP) on the rear of the fan shroud.
    21.jpg



    27. Locate and remove the 10mm bolt securing the HCP line to the shroud
    23.jpg


    -- Hydraulic Fluid Loss



    28. Disconnect the CFP hydralic fluid line
    29. Use a 12mm socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the CFP together
    29.0.jpg
    29.1.jpg

    30. Seperate the two halves of the CFP
    30.0.jpg
    30.1.jpg

    -- Hydraulic Fluid Loss Complete

    31. Remove the Fan and shroud from the vehicle. To install, reverse all Steps




    ----------If you want to remove the fan blades from the shroud

    32. Locate the three 8mm bolts on the front of the fan and remove
    32.0.jpg
    32.1.jpg


    33. Locate the 13mm bolt and turn counter clockwise to loosen and remove
    33.0.jpg
    33.1.jpg


    34. Remove the Fan, Shroud, and Blades from the vehicle. to install, reverse all steps

    30.2.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 3
    • oddball

      oddball Dedicated LVC Member

      Messages:
      1,237
      Likes Received:
      49
      Joined:
      Aug 18, 2010
      Location:
      Dallas, TX
      The part on the fan shroud is the cooling fan motor - not pump. IIRC, it's a vane motor, so pulling it apart should be done very carefully. Vanes on used parts need to be reinstalled in the same orientation they are removed, and that's hard to do if they've fallen to the ground.

      The silver canister on the top of the shroud is the A/C receiver/driver - not the condenser. This will vent the A/C. The receiver/drier must be replaced if it is vented. The A/C system also needs to be recharged. You also should install a new receiver/drier immediately before charging. Removing the receiver/drier should not be necessary. Makes it a little easier, but it can be pushed out of the way and managed.

      The full coolant bleed procedure absolutely must be performed since the cooling system is opened.
       
      • Like Like x 1
      • Kid_Lyrics

        Kid_Lyrics Well-Known LVC Member

        Messages:
        383
        Likes Received:
        8
        Joined:
        Jan 30, 2016
        Location:
        Norfolk
        Thanks odd!! Ill correct the terms!
         
      • Telco

        Telco Dedicated LVC Member

        Messages:
        2,895
        Likes Received:
        126
        Joined:
        Jun 2, 2012
        Location:
        2003 Lincoln LS V8
        If you're cracking the system open, replace all AC seals you can reach too. You can get a box of them, multiple sizes, from the parts store for about 10 bucks. This will save you from an AC leak down the road, and is very simple to do now. Pay close attention to how tight the hose nuts are tightened down when you loosen them so you'll know how tight to get them when you put them back on. As always, with hollow tubes, you will want to use tube wrenches, and give it a good, sharp snap on the wrench when you loosen them. It's intuitive to go slow when you do this but when you try to loosen hollow pipes slowly you can bend and twist the hose without breaking the nuts loose. And, make sure to hold both sides, not just one side or even a sharp snap will bend the hoses.

        Excellent work though, nothing I like seeing more than a hydraulic cooling fan biting the dust. Can't stand those messy, noisy things.
         
      • RigsLS

        RigsLS Dedicated LVC Member

        Messages:
        7,761
        Likes Received:
        516
        Joined:
        Mar 10, 2012
        I usually drain my coolant by means of utilizing the radiator drain valve at the bottom of the radiator.


        like so:

        coolflush-drain.jpg


        Unless I missed a step I understood hoses were just removed and coolant spilled out? <shrugs>

        coolflush-drain.jpg
         
      • Kid_Lyrics

        Kid_Lyrics Well-Known LVC Member

        Messages:
        383
        Likes Received:
        8
        Joined:
        Jan 30, 2016
        Location:
        Norfolk
        Yes they were. People are free to modify it as they please. I don't think it's a perfect way but it's definitely a way that works.

        _-_ IG: KID_LYRICS _-_
         
      • RigsLS

        RigsLS Dedicated LVC Member

        Messages:
        7,761
        Likes Received:
        516
        Joined:
        Mar 10, 2012
        Yeah understood, all roads lead to Rome, what's a little coolant on the ground and some refrigerants ejected into the environment. I mean, who cares right? F*ck the environment as per this logic.


        Bud, I'm terribly sorry, please don't have a cow or what have you BUT ... we try and make attempts at capturing these nasty automotive fluids as apposed to just dumping them.

        Perhaps not everyone I'm sure BUT ... the political correct method would be to drain the coolant down to a level (as needed) by using the valve on the bottom of the rad as provided, into a bucket. (I understood you had water so mute) ... and we really should go to a garage open wallet and let them extract and capture the Air Conditioning Refrigerants, known as a purge, only then do we go back home and crack lines open.


        On that note: I'm such a bastard myself ... I burn my used motor oil in my back yard firepit, throw it on a good fire and watch it burn like mad until the morning hours. No angel wings here on that one! F*ck 'em! Benefits of living country side away from the big cities <grins evilly>
         
      • 1LoudLS

        1LoudLS Dedicated LVC Member

        Messages:
        9,901
        Likes Received:
        350
        Joined:
        Mar 31, 2008
        Location:
        Ann Arbor
        nice, good detail.
         
      • oddball

        oddball Dedicated LVC Member

        Messages:
        1,237
        Likes Received:
        49
        Joined:
        Aug 18, 2010
        Location:
        Dallas, TX
        Fun fact: draining the rad won't help all that much because of the convoluted hose routing. Antifreeze will still spill out.

        Good point that venting R134a went illegal in 2013. I hadn't caught that. Man, can't do anything anymore.
         
      • RigsLS

        RigsLS Dedicated LVC Member

        Messages:
        7,761
        Likes Received:
        516
        Joined:
        Mar 10, 2012
        Oh I don't know about that, I've drained it down on my 01 and had only some coming from the lines as I disassembled everything. Sure beats just removing hoses with a full system the way I figure it. Particular the upper hose would be emptied. Smaller lines to DCCV and Aux flow pump would of course still hold some, yes.
         
      • HMass1

        HMass1 LVC Member

        Messages:
        15
        Likes Received:
        1
        Joined:
        Dec 30, 2015
        Location:
        Springfield
        Great how to!!! Question though lol When reinstalling everything, did u need to release air from the HCP? If so, how?
         

      Share This Page

      1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
        By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.