Filling - bleeding

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KennyKaraoke

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Followed procedure exactly as written.

After 8 minutes, still no coolant coming out of the heater bleed.
Nothing is leaking anywhere. Plastic parts replaced, new t-stat, new degas bottle.
After 15 minutes, gave it some gas and finally got a steady stream out of the air bleed.
By then it was up to 194°. It stayed really steady for while at 185° until I revved the engine a bit.

I'm gonna let it cool completely and re-do. But any thoughts? Isn't that bit warm if the t-stat is 183°?

Any tips on issues others have run into bleeding appreciated.
Thanks!
 
Why did you put a colder thermostat in?
 
so you were having a long warm up time, as in it takes a long time for the engine to warm up?


because if that is the case, you just did the opposite of helping...

lets think about this for a minute... the T-stat will remain closed until the engine (technically the water in the engine) reaches a certain temperature, then it begins to open until it has got hot enough to be fully opened allowing the cooling system to start cooling the engine down...

now since the T-stat that is in the car will start to open in cooler water, and will be fully open even sooner with cooler water than before, which means that the water will start flowing through the rest of the cooling system sooner meaning that the cooling system will be keeping the engine even cooler making it take even longer to reach full temp...
 
Failing open? If the t-stat fails closed, then you overheat.
Started another thread a while back and read in yet another thread that the t-stat fails open thus coolant always flowing and not allowing the engine to warm properly. I didn't see any issue with warming time after replacing and the temp stayed steady at 185° after the t-stat opened, and warmed a bit more after adding rpm's.
My issue after repair is no coolant out of of the heater bleed until rpm's added to process. Which is correct according to yet another thread but not according to the bleed instructions.
I did have some coolant coming out of the radiator petcock, so I think the o-ring is shot. Can air get in through the drain?
 
So, I just re-did the bleed and it went fine, had to give it some gas to get the air out initially, closed the bleed, 5 minute idle, opened and it bled a small amount of air, then did the 2,000 rpm til heater ran hot, engine steady at 194°.

Ordering new petcock right now.

Guess I'll go through the process again once the new part arrives.

But I did have another question in there, what is the correct operating temperature?
I've become a bit paranoid about temperatures between the LS cooling issues here and monitoring the temps on my Envoy since replacing the radiator.
 
1LoudLS said:
if water can leak out, then air can definitely leak in, hell air will leak in before water will start leaking out!
Click to expand...

This probably happened as well. I cleaned the drain off really good before starting the bleed. Checked occasionally, nothing. By the time the engine warmed, coolant was dripping out. Could have been my initial issue. Anyway new petcock arrives Monday.
 
Correct operating temperature (if you would put the correct thermostat in) is about 200 degrees (195 to 205).
 
joegr said:
Correct operating temperature (if you would put the correct thermostat in) is about 200 degrees (195 to 205).
Click to expand...

Where was you able to find the operating temperature. I've dug online and read through the ford service manuals and can't find anything. I monitor mine daily and it runs 207 to 211 all the time. In traffic Ive seen it go to 218. Do you happen to know at what temp the "idiot hand" actually moves. It just stays a hair below the middle.
 
Somewhere close to 230, I think. Should be a 190 degree thermostat. Colder is not better.
 
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