JC1994
Dedicated LVC Member
I am a little nervous about giving my engine a thorough cleaning. I am worried about ruining sensors. In the past I have lightly washed it with no problems. anybody had problems doing this to their's? Thanks, JC...
Engine Washing question....
- Thread starter JC1994
- Start date
formerknown
Dedicated LVC Member
I use the spray at the carwash. Never had any trouble.
MonsterMark
Dedicated LVC Member
I at least cover the alternator and coil packs.
B
bigdog1279
Guest
i don,t think i would say wash it
i would take a air compressor with a air gun and blow it out then a New soft paint brush and
wipe the rest then maybe in some playes with a very very litly damp rag wipe down but woudln,t run a hose a a spray over the engine might get water in something that might not be sealed or might be cracked
i would take a air compressor with a air gun and blow it out then a New soft paint brush and
wipe the rest then maybe in some playes with a very very litly damp rag wipe down but woudln,t run a hose a a spray over the engine might get water in something that might not be sealed or might be cracked
JC1994
Dedicated LVC Member
Well I went and washed it. mostly just dust.engine looks like new, but of course something had to happen, :Bang when I started it up the oil light went off for about 15 seconds then slowly came back on to full brightness.I think water got to the sender, what do you guys think?
Faust
LVC Member
I washed mine a while back, bought 4 cans of carb/choke cleaner at the store and started spraying it down, then hit it with a hose. But I had a thick ass layer of grease on it. Note: try not to hit your battery, distributer, or carb...if you have a carb, which I don't think Mark VIIIs have, I just have my archaic 2bbl carb...
Lincolnpimpin
Well-Known LVC Member
At work we always spray off the engines with a power washer and get close on them if dirty but most of them are newer vehicles 2000 up either way we spray it off.
CobraConti
Well-Known LVC Member
I buy a can of engine degreaser and use that. I cover the distributers with a Ziplock bag. Then i use a pressure washer and when i spray i don't purposely don't try to spray the alternator, battery, or distributor. Never had a problem!
MsM8tress
Dedicated LVC Member
Good q! I was just goona go get himm detailed - anything there need to check and make sure they do or don't do?
Thanks
Debi
Thanks
Debi
94m5
Dmaup's Daddy
unless the engine is really dirty.....just go pick up a bottle of simple green. Spray the engine down with low pressure, spray the green stuff, and after sitting a while spray it back off.
Make sure you don't let it dry on there,(it has the possibility of discoloring aluminum.)
Make sure you don't let it dry on there,(it has the possibility of discoloring aluminum.)
JoeyLincolnMK8
Dedicated LVC Member
degreaser works for me!
rrudd2
Well-Known LVC Member
I followed the instructions here....
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article79.html
I did my wife's 97 Plymouth Grand Voyager last weekend. It was a dusty mess, with some grease and sludge around and below oil fill hole on the valve cover.
Unfortunately, I didn't take any "before" pictures, but here is are some "after" pictures.
http://www.markviii.org/~rrudd2/ve1.jpg
http://www.markviii.org/~rrudd2/ve2.jpg
http://www.markviii.org/~rrudd2/ve3.jpg
I don't think I'll do my Mark quite this way. It's a 97, and I wouldn't want water getting down below the COP assembly. When I bought it, the dealership had detailed the engine, and water caused a short in the #4 cylinder's assembly.
I'm planning on finding an inexpensive steamer, and using that instead of a garden hose. Otherwise, I'll follow the same procedure.
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article79.html
I did my wife's 97 Plymouth Grand Voyager last weekend. It was a dusty mess, with some grease and sludge around and below oil fill hole on the valve cover.
Unfortunately, I didn't take any "before" pictures, but here is are some "after" pictures.
http://www.markviii.org/~rrudd2/ve1.jpg
http://www.markviii.org/~rrudd2/ve2.jpg
http://www.markviii.org/~rrudd2/ve3.jpg
I don't think I'll do my Mark quite this way. It's a 97, and I wouldn't want water getting down below the COP assembly. When I bought it, the dealership had detailed the engine, and water caused a short in the #4 cylinder's assembly.
I'm planning on finding an inexpensive steamer, and using that instead of a garden hose. Otherwise, I'll follow the same procedure.
JC1994
Dedicated LVC Member
Jeez!! I think I know what to clean an engine with,my first job was detailing cars, what I was wondering is if anybody ruined any sensors washing their engine. my oil light stays on now since I washed the engine,goes off when you first start it,then after about 15 seconds it comes back on. I think water fried the oil sender. what do you guys think?
JC1994
Dedicated LVC Member
Well it must have dried out. the oil light is working normally now. :Beer
triskelion
New LVC Member
I washed my engine earlier with pressure washer (set at light pressure only). It was jst a quick spray wash, not even more than 5 secs. Now my engine became cranky. I ran engine for abt 20 mins. Still cranky periodically, like running fine for 10~15 secs, then bcomes cranky for say 3 secs, then fine, then cranky... Please help ! What could had happened ? Any possible parts damaged ? In your case JC1994, how long did it take to dry out the water ?
Thnx.
Thnx.
JC1994
Dedicated LVC Member
overnight.
2001LS8Sport
Dedicated LVC Member
Pull the coil covers and coils and blow them out. Do that immediately after washing before you start the vehicle and you shouldn't have any problems. Washing won't hurt the alternator. I would also try and do it with a cool engine.
Frogman
Dedicated LVC Member
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I've always washed my cars' engines while they were running.
LuxFord
Active LVC Member
iv washed mine 4-5times on high pressure....never had any problames? i never coverd anything coil packs should'nt mess up, the plug caps seal pretty well. about the only thing to worry about is getting it in the airbox and throttle body. i get everything but once i get done i park and dry it off abit. they also say dont use a steamer because the steam can get in very tite places where normal high preaser hoses cant go because the heat can expand things and also the steamers make very small micro beads of water and let it go places you dont want it to. BUT thats just what iv heard.
HOT ROD LINCOLN MARK 7
LVC Member
Spray That Motor Down Don't Worry
I have been washing car motors at the quarter car wash for 35 years with fantastic results .Get her out on the highway after washing and wind it up and dry it off.
HOT ROD LINCOLN MARK 7
I have been washing car motors at the quarter car wash for 35 years with fantastic results .Get her out on the highway after washing and wind it up and dry it off.
HOT ROD LINCOLN MARK 7
Detailed Image
Dedicated LVC Member
Here is my routine for detailing the engine. I know it seems a little intimidating at first, but its relatively simple.
1. When doing an engine detail we recommend the engine be a little warm, so turn on the engine for about 1 – 2 minutes and then turn it off. If the vehicle has been driven or is hot from previous driving it may be too warm for an engine detail.
2. When the engine is at a safe temperature you can start the process. Cover any exposed electrical components (usually there are a few electrical plugs you can cover) and anything else you do not want water in with aluminum foil. Cover any exposed air filters and intakes so they don’t flood with water.
3. Spray the engine with a light mist of water. Spray degreaser over areas with grease build-ups and other heavy deposits. Avoid spraying metals and other mechanical pieces. We recommend a 3:1 dilution of Poorboy's World Bio APC. Start spraying it low or deep in the engine and work your way up towards more easily accessible areas. Let it sit for approximately 1 - 3 minutes. If you use a stronger degreaser you may want to rinse it sooner.
4. Spray down everything to remove all the degreaser and dirt and grime with a light mist from a hose. You don't want to use high-pressure water or tons of water if avoidable. Some areas may need to be wiped down with a rag or with a brush to break up heavy deposits. The debris should be loose now and fall off easily, don't rely on pressure from the hose to break up the debris.
5. Now I spot treat any areas that didn't get clean and the metals. I'll use an old rag and spray some degreaser on it and clean up any areas I see that need a light touch up. Don't forget to clean the hood that has been flipped up.
6. Make sure you have removed the tin foil and all other products used in the detail from the engine bay. Start the engine and let is run for at least 30 seconds to help dry some of the water. Be careful touching the vehicle after because it can get hot fast. Then finish drying anything that may need it.
7. Now I recommend treating all the (non-mechanical) vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces with a protectant such as the 303 Aerospace Protectant. Apply this to a cloth and wipe down anything that’s rubber, vinyl and plastic that’s non-mechanical. This will help prevent premature fading and keep the surface looking great. The 303 Protectant has a low gloss matte finish that looks great and helps prevent dust build up. Additionally if you have any exposed metal you can polish them now. We really like the deep polishing power of the P21S Finish Restorer. You can also apply a sealant to any painted areas in the engine bay or the under side of the hood.
8. Step back and admire a clean and sharp looking engine bay.
Let me know if you have any questions or if you'd like any further explanations.
Greg @ Detailed Image
1. When doing an engine detail we recommend the engine be a little warm, so turn on the engine for about 1 – 2 minutes and then turn it off. If the vehicle has been driven or is hot from previous driving it may be too warm for an engine detail.
2. When the engine is at a safe temperature you can start the process. Cover any exposed electrical components (usually there are a few electrical plugs you can cover) and anything else you do not want water in with aluminum foil. Cover any exposed air filters and intakes so they don’t flood with water.
3. Spray the engine with a light mist of water. Spray degreaser over areas with grease build-ups and other heavy deposits. Avoid spraying metals and other mechanical pieces. We recommend a 3:1 dilution of Poorboy's World Bio APC. Start spraying it low or deep in the engine and work your way up towards more easily accessible areas. Let it sit for approximately 1 - 3 minutes. If you use a stronger degreaser you may want to rinse it sooner.
4. Spray down everything to remove all the degreaser and dirt and grime with a light mist from a hose. You don't want to use high-pressure water or tons of water if avoidable. Some areas may need to be wiped down with a rag or with a brush to break up heavy deposits. The debris should be loose now and fall off easily, don't rely on pressure from the hose to break up the debris.
5. Now I spot treat any areas that didn't get clean and the metals. I'll use an old rag and spray some degreaser on it and clean up any areas I see that need a light touch up. Don't forget to clean the hood that has been flipped up.
6. Make sure you have removed the tin foil and all other products used in the detail from the engine bay. Start the engine and let is run for at least 30 seconds to help dry some of the water. Be careful touching the vehicle after because it can get hot fast. Then finish drying anything that may need it.
7. Now I recommend treating all the (non-mechanical) vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces with a protectant such as the 303 Aerospace Protectant. Apply this to a cloth and wipe down anything that’s rubber, vinyl and plastic that’s non-mechanical. This will help prevent premature fading and keep the surface looking great. The 303 Protectant has a low gloss matte finish that looks great and helps prevent dust build up. Additionally if you have any exposed metal you can polish them now. We really like the deep polishing power of the P21S Finish Restorer. You can also apply a sealant to any painted areas in the engine bay or the under side of the hood.
8. Step back and admire a clean and sharp looking engine bay.
Let me know if you have any questions or if you'd like any further explanations.
Greg @ Detailed Image
95Pred8r
Active LVC Member
I tried the link in rrud2's post and it didn't work for me. I'm assuming the link was the same one I checked out last summer and then tried myself. Amazing results!
To get ther without the link, follow these simple directions.
1 Go to lincolnsonline.com
2 Click on Tech
3 Click on Clean and Shine Your Engine Compartment
4 Follow the directions and enjoy the new look under your hood
I personally did not cover anything, I just used a little discretion with my aim. I was thrilled with the results. If I'm showing the car, I still use this procedure and touch up afterwards.
To get ther without the link, follow these simple directions.
1 Go to lincolnsonline.com
2 Click on Tech
3 Click on Clean and Shine Your Engine Compartment
4 Follow the directions and enjoy the new look under your hood
I personally did not cover anything, I just used a little discretion with my aim. I was thrilled with the results. If I'm showing the car, I still use this procedure and touch up afterwards.
I had a bad experience one before with an expensive DME getting water in it after a wash.
SInce then? I play it safe. a bucket of soapy water and a LOT of rags. All done by hand. Takes me maybe 20 minutes at MOST to clean, then wipe down by rag. I finish it up with armor all on the plastics and hoses.
SInce then? I play it safe. a bucket of soapy water and a LOT of rags. All done by hand. Takes me maybe 20 minutes at MOST to clean, then wipe down by rag. I finish it up with armor all on the plastics and hoses.
MERIJONS97LSC
Dedicated LVC Member
dRock95MarkVIII
Well-Known LVC Member
I use low pressure warm water, normal car wash shampoo on most surfaces, mild degreaser on very dirty parts, and a bunch of assorted brushes with all that to get in all the nooks and crannies. For dressing, I normally use Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #40
I use Klasse All-In-One on all the painted surfaces (ie underside of hood, firewall, jambs, etc.), and the front timing cover after it is nice and clean to help repel dirt and prevent any corrosion or oxidation of the aluminum. It's acrylic formulation lasts much longer than a carnuba wax in these harsh areas.
I cover the alt in a plastic bag, not foil. I've seen someone use foil before and their alt's main postive connection had a loose boot, it shorted to the foil and caused a nice little spark show. Plastic is much safter, and works just as well. I also cover the coil packs with plastic bags, and remove any shields to clean underneath. I'll cover the air intake if it's exposed. On COP cars, I take extra care to stuff rags around them to prevent moisture in the plug wells causing a misfire. High pressure air is useful for blowing the water away from these areas once finished washing.
My Mark's engine bay looks pretty nice overall:
But it doesn't hold a candle to my Marquis:
It's virtually spotless, and I really pride myself on keeping it that way. As I tell everyone who asks me how I keep it like that on the panther platform forum I frequent, regular cleaning is the key. It gets a wipe down with the wheel/tire wash mitt and bucket every time I wash the car, and it really helps to keep the dirt and grime under control between the major details.
I use Klasse All-In-One on all the painted surfaces (ie underside of hood, firewall, jambs, etc.), and the front timing cover after it is nice and clean to help repel dirt and prevent any corrosion or oxidation of the aluminum. It's acrylic formulation lasts much longer than a carnuba wax in these harsh areas.
I cover the alt in a plastic bag, not foil. I've seen someone use foil before and their alt's main postive connection had a loose boot, it shorted to the foil and caused a nice little spark show. Plastic is much safter, and works just as well. I also cover the coil packs with plastic bags, and remove any shields to clean underneath. I'll cover the air intake if it's exposed. On COP cars, I take extra care to stuff rags around them to prevent moisture in the plug wells causing a misfire. High pressure air is useful for blowing the water away from these areas once finished washing.
My Mark's engine bay looks pretty nice overall:
But it doesn't hold a candle to my Marquis:
It's virtually spotless, and I really pride myself on keeping it that way. As I tell everyone who asks me how I keep it like that on the panther platform forum I frequent, regular cleaning is the key. It gets a wipe down with the wheel/tire wash mitt and bucket every time I wash the car, and it really helps to keep the dirt and grime under control between the major details.