Engine started "choking" getting on the highway

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LowLincoln

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I had posted this in the "what did you do today" thread a few days ago but maybe I can get more opinions here.




On Wednesday, I was doing my usual drive from work to home. Merging onto the highway, my car decided to, out of nowhere, puke out on as if it were starving for gas. It started backfiring/sputtering. I couldn't go past 1 - 2 inches on the accelerator or the engine would bog down to very low RPM's (but not actually die).

First thing that came to mind was the fuel pump was on its way. I just couldn't hear it because of the highway noise (I had pulled over on the shoulder by this time). Decided to shut down and start the engine back up. All perfect again. No hesitation, full acceleration is there, as smooth as can be. WTF was that!

Well, today is Friday and it hasn't happened again since the one time. I've probably put in about 50-60 miles. I will be driving about 1000 miles next week driving allover FL and now I have a bad gut feeling this will happen again.


So some ideas:
1) MAF may have snapped and gave bogus readings to the ECM
2) ECM itself is starting to go bad
3) TPS may have been involved, giving inaccurate readings to the ECM.
4) Crank sensor had a hiccup, missed a beat and threw the ECM way off.

But none of this explains how everything was back to normal after fully turning off the ignition and then restarting the car on the side of the highway.


Opinions? :confused:
edit: I never got a CEL, probably because it didn't happen long enough to register
 
I know it is not the same but my wifes GP GTP was doing the same thing and threw a code for MAF sensor but goes back to driving normal. I have one on order but if you get the same thing again try unplugging the MAF and driving if the bog or puke does not happen then you found your problem or the PCM is starting to puke out.
 
Yeah, good idea. I'll do that next time it wants to puke out. So far it hasn't happen. Went for a little drive today as well and no symptoms / CEL's. I just hope it's something simple like the MAF so I can disconnect it and run in limp mode. If it's a bad TPS or crank sensor, those could leave me stranded.
 
For the heck of it try cleaning the maf. The cleaner is about $6.
 
if i have less then a half tank of gas and accelerate aggressively, or turn right aggressively, this exact thing happens.
i usually wait it out, car comes back in 10-15 seconds. or a restart and fuel pump prime brings it back too.
 
sounds like fuel pump is getting hot and gets weak. mine does same thing when gas level is below 1/3 tank.
 
I can definitely say that my tank was full when this happened, and car was not fully warm. My work is just a couple of minutes from the highway :(
 
My tank was full when mine died too, it lacked all fun
 
Tomorrow I'm starting my 260 mile drive to Jacksonville for a work project and will remain there a few days. I'm just hoping I will make it there! I'm worried to death...

Then another possible 700-mile trip going to Miami and bounce back up to Tampa... It's going to be busy.
 
have you checked the exhaust. get a vaccum gauge and read the instructions for it for such a simple and inexpensive tool it helps . maybe old school but does the job. and it will check the fuel pump pressure too. jd
 
Worn COP boots will do the same. Replaced mine when it did a similar thing and never had another problem.
 
It did it again after filling up the tank in Orlando. Fixed itself like the first time, I turned off the ignition and then restarted the car at a stop light. All was fine for the rest of the 140 miles!

Looks like Sapperfire wins. But what is causing that in the tank? Why is everything so perfect after restarting the car?
 
Magnetico said:
It did it again after filling up the tank in Orlando. Fixed itself like the first time, I turned off the ignition and then restarted the car at a stop light. All was fine for the rest of the 140 miles!

Looks like Sapperfire wins. But what is causing that in the tank? Why is everything so perfect after restarting the car?
Click to expand...

Do a search and see just how many other people have suffered the same intermittent power loss with bad boots. It may or may not be, but it is a common gen II problem that causes the same symptoms.
 
Is it just coincidence then both times I filled up the car, shortly down the road, the engine bogs down and dies on me? I don't see how the COP boots tie into this...

edit: I'm not trying to sound hard headed .. just can't see the connection...
 
Magnetico said:
Is it just coincidence then both times I filled up the car, shortly down the road, the engine bogs down and dies on me? I don't see how the COP boots tie into this...

edit: I'm not trying to sound hard headed .. just can't see the connection...
Click to expand...

Could be complete coincidence. If I had the chance to replace a set of boots versus dropping the tank, I would probably replace the boots first but that's just me. It is a cheap thing to rule out in a line of potential suspects.
Good luck with it either way it turns out.
 
Magnetico said:
I had posted this in the "what did you do today" thread a few days ago but maybe I can get more opinions here.




On Wednesday, I was doing my usual drive from work to home. Merging onto the highway, my car decided to, out of nowhere, puke out on as if it were starving for gas. It started backfiring/sputtering. I couldn't go past 1 - 2 inches on the accelerator or the engine would bog down to very low RPM's (but not actually die).

First thing that came to mind was the fuel pump was on its way. I just couldn't hear it because of the highway noise (I had pulled over on the shoulder by this time). Decided to shut down and start the engine back up. All perfect again. No hesitation, full acceleration is there, as smooth as can be. WTF was that!

Well, today is Friday and it hasn't happened again since the one time. I've probably put in about 50-60 miles. I will be driving about 1000 miles next week driving allover FL and now I have a bad gut feeling this will happen again.


So some ideas:
1) MAF may have snapped and gave bogus readings to the ECM
2) ECM itself is starting to go bad
3) TPS may have been involved, giving inaccurate readings to the ECM.
4) Crank sensor had a hiccup, missed a beat and threw the ECM way off.

But none of this explains how everything was back to normal after fully turning off the ignition and then restarting the car on the side of the highway.


Opinions? :confused:
edit: I never got a CEL, probably because it didn't happen long enough to register
Click to expand...

I would change the FUEL filter. That is one thing you don't mention having changed. Its located behind the passenger front tire which you will have to pull. Then the back side of the inner fender liner.
 
Yeah, I haven't gotten to the fuel filter yet but I don't believe there's anything wrong with the fuel system. I'm starting to lean more on the mass air (a little pun there).

Here's a quick video of it cutting out while I am on the side of the highway:
http://youtu.be/hpaOFuSfeds?hd=1

The first two attempts at cranking are without actually turning off the ignition at all. Both those times, it didn't want to stay on, likely from an extreme lean condition. The 3rd attempt, I turn off the ignition, then start the car and bam, everything is perfect again.

FYI - when the car is misbehaving, I can smell the cats burning because it's running incredibly lean.

Tonight I am going to test the TPS, and drive around with teh mass air disconnected to see how things go. The symptoms are coming around more often now, so it will be easier to diagnose.
 
Why don't you just get an OBD11 code reader that shows live data and watch what your TPS and MAF and other things are doing live??????
 
Magnetico said:
Is it just coincidence then both times I filled up the car, shortly down the road, the engine bogs down and dies on me? I don't see how the COP boots tie into this...

edit: I'm not trying to sound hard headed .. just can't see the connection...
Click to expand...

Heat soak maybe?
It would be nice if you had a fuel pressure gauge mounted on the rail, you would know for sure if its the pump.
Could also be something simple like your battery power and ground cable. Have you ever replaced/upgraded them?
I had a couple of stumble issues very similar to your video, shortly offer that the alt died.. or so I thought.
I went through 3 alt and 2 batteries in 8 months, the car sat for 6 months of that over the winter.
I had upgraded the power cable coming off the alt to a 4ga when I put the first alt on the car, this spring when I got the car out I checked the voltage; it started out at 14.4 and slowly dropped to below 12.2.. that's when the car would start to run rough.
This is when I put the new battery in, I rechecked and it was doing the same thing. I started to lean over the car and my hand touched the neg battery cable and damn near burnt my fingers.
I upgraded my cables to 1/0 ga and didn't have a issue the few times I drove the car before tearing thecar apart for paint.
 
Right on the Mark said:
Why don't you just get an OBD11 code reader that shows live data and watch what your TPS and MAF and other things are doing live??????
Click to expand...

The thing is, it wasn't doing it often. We're talking once a week, but in the last week it's been doing it almost every day now. I still don't have a CEL yet, but hopefully there's a code stored in memory now.

Regarding a scanner that reads live data, well not sure what parts stores will lend that out. Most are just the simple hand-helds with basic options.


97MarkJA said:
Heat soak maybe?
It would be nice if you had a fuel pressure gauge mounted on the rail, you would know for sure if its the pump.
Could also be something simple like your battery power and ground cable. Have you ever replaced/upgraded them?
I had a couple of stumble issues very similar to your video, shortly offer that the alt died.. or so I thought.
I went through 3 alt and 2 batteries in 8 months, the car sat for 6 months of that over the winter.
I had upgraded the power cable coming off the alt to a 4ga when I put the first alt on the car, this spring when I got the car out I checked the voltage; it started out at 14.4 and slowly dropped to below 12.2.. that's when the car would start to run rough.
This is when I put the new battery in, I rechecked and it was doing the same thing. I started to lean over the car and my hand touched the neg battery cable and damn near burnt my fingers.
I upgraded my cables to 1/0 ga and didn't have a issue the few times I drove the car before tearing thecar apart for paint.
Click to expand...

I like the voltage check idea. I've only had this alternator on my car for about 2.5 months now, about the same time this symptom started appearing. Cheap friggin Vato Zone alternators! And now that you mention battery cables, the positive terminal is getting some calcium buildup
 
Put a meter on the battery and let it run for a while.
I cut open the factory ground cable and the copper was black a good foot from each end.
I think the voltage light comes on at 11.6 or so, by then its too late.
If the voltage drops while the car is running it could be one of three things; bad battery, bad alt, bad cables. If its bad cables usually the ground will take the abuse, resistance builds heat.
It can cause issues like the fuel pump running hot, coills burning up boots, etc..
As voltage decreases amperage increases.
Check it out, if nothing else you rule it out and have piece of mind. It's not one of those things you have to through a part at to see if it fixes the issue.
 
I just haven't been able to leave work earlier to reach the NAPA store in time to use their code scanner (other parts stores are farther from home).

But, I've made a crucial mistake in my description of the problem. What is actually happening is that the engine is being flooded with fuel, thus causing it to cut out at idle unless I keep my foot on the accel halfway or so. White smoke started pouring out before the plugs got soaked and engine cut out.

Weird! So a restart it runs normally again.

Hopefully Saturday I can really run the codes and fix this!
 
COPS and fuel filter are not expensive,however any time I had a bad COP I got a CEL.
If you take your car to Advance auto,p no fee and they will run a alternator check on it.
Also have a CEL READER they will check for free too.
 
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