Electric fan conversion using the original shroud

[HALFGIG]

THIS CONVERSION IS ON A 2001 V8 3.9 LS​

I bought a Flex-a-Lite series 160 fan for the conversion. The fan is 16", 3000 CFM and draws only 19.5 amps. This fan in size is identical to a cheaper model 168. The difference is the 160 has a controller unit included with it.

This fan fits perfectly inside the ORIGINAL SHROUD on the top and bottom. There is approximately 2" of space on the left and right sides. I've included a link to the pictures on photobucket at the bottom of this post. I apologize for not getting the pics in order the way I wanted to. The following is a list of the work performed for this conversion.

• Measured and cut out most of the plastic framing from the original shroud
• Applied duct tape to the left over framing to use as a dam
• Reamed out the 4 mounting holes (slightly) on the fan with a 1/4" bit
• Set the fan in place and drilled the 4 holes in the shroud
• I used 2- 1/4" x 1 1/2" and 2- 1/4" x 5" bolts w/ nylon locknuts, washers
• Cut a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" hole on the top of the shroud for access to the wiring, thermocouple and the temperature adjustment
• I used a can of Spray Foam to fill in the gaps everywhere around the fan except where the controller is. This is what the duct tape was used for
• Removed the duct tape
• Mounted the Fan and Shroud and ran the wiring
• I hooked up the fan motor wire to and open blade inside the fuse box under the hood
• I added a circuit to the #6 position of the fuse box. That circuit is a key on circuit. It is also the Transmission Solenoid circuit. I choose this as the (lesser of a problem) keyed on circuit
• I cut out a lot of the protruding plastic from the inside of the fuse box lid to make room for the wiring. The ground wire is just above the fuse box on a body bolt.

The add a circuit is just a mini fuse with an added fuse and wire that plugs into the original fuse location.

The project went very well and it works like a charm. I did close up a couple of large gaps around the shroud that were there from day one. I may add some more pics or info later (when it stops raining---Seattle).

Here is the link for the pics: http://s1126.photobucket.com/albums/l602/lincolnls/

 

[tireman]

let me get this right

the circuit is always on? or does it turn on via the heat probe? looks like a nice job to me. Several others have had some success converting to an electric fan setup. I was wonder why you didn't get an electric fan from a wrecked car and install it.

 

[HALFGIG]

The fan runs on temperature. There is an adjustment for the thermocouple circuit to have the fan turn on as early as 160 degrees. You can adjust that as you wish. Part #2 of your question. I got a great deal on this fan plus I believe it only draws half the Amps of the Gen 2 fan. The Flex a Lite 160 draws 19.5 amps and pushes 3000 cfm. I'm happy with the setup.

 

[oddball]

Gen II fan pulls 43 amps at full tilt. I also suspect it's quite a bit more than 3000 cfm.

My only hesitation with these small aftermarket fans is airflow in hot climates. This is still a very nice swap.

 

[HALFGIG]

It would be nice to know the volume of the oem fan. Anybody??? I do live in the Seattle area and our weather so far this year has been the coolest in 100 years.

 

[cammerfe]

Had it suggested in casual conversation that pulling a fan/shroud assy. from a Taurus, in a boneyard is a good, inexpensive solution to the replacement problem. I'll be doing it later this summer.

Nice job of the mod!

KS

 

[Frank T]

Halfgig, you did this on a 2001 model , my question is do you actually think this setup will move more air than the hydraulic fan , I may have missed something on an earlier thread by you on overheating problems , so what drove you to this mod , I am just trying to obtain as much info on this as possible , I have owned my 2001 since new and has been a good car so far , except for the norm window reg's , some coil pacs and valve cover gaskets Frank

 

[MMAFIGHTER121]

Would this really reduce a significant amount of drag on the engine? Or is it more of something to do as a replacement alternative? I just past 100k on my 2000 LS and haven't had any issues with it yet, but I'm all for reducing engine drag. I know the whole "the power has to come from somewhere and thusly makes your alternator work harder" argument, but some difficult systems see gains, especially if this is such a low amp fan.

 

[joegr]

Would this really reduce a significant amount of drag on the engine? Or is it more of something to do as a replacement alternative? I just past 100k on my 2000 LS and haven't had any issues with it yet, but I'm all for reducing engine drag. I know the whole "the power has to come from somewhere and thusly makes your alternator work harder" argument, but some difficult systems see gains, especially if this is such a low amp fan.

Engine fans (mechanical, hydraulic, or electric) put a noticeable load on the engine. However, both hydraulic and electric fans have the advantage that at cruising speed either are turned off because the natural airflow at speed is enough.

There would be a drag advantage to switching from a non-clutched mechanical fan to an electric fan. I don't think there's any drag advantage to switching the hydraulic one to electric since the hydraulic one is mostly switched off (via the control solenoid valve on the pump) at speed.

 

[cammerfe]

+1 on Joe's comment. However, the hydraulic system is a horrendously expensive thing to have to work on, and going to the electric version will take about twenty pounds off the front of the car.

I, too, have never had a minute's trouble with the hydraulic fan on my '02, but I'll replace it this summer because I've got 148K miles on the clock with mine. And the space at the front of the engine on the passenger side where the fan pump now sets, is the place that's going to be the place for a Barnes dry-sump pump.

KS

 

[112 LS]

I have my 01's fan out right now, I'm still on the fence about converting. In order to get my hydro fan working again I'd need a pump/pulley & $ensor which does suck, but I'd feel good about having it stock as it was engineered to be.

but then again I've heard the reason for the rare hydro pump in the first place is to lighten the load on the LS alternator, which seems odd to me. Can anyone confirm this?

 

[cammerfe]

I believe the Gen II alternator has a higher capacity to help the electric fan along.

KS

 

[112 LS]

Right I've heard the same.

it would have been cheaper for everyone all around if ford used a better alt.

 

[HALFGIG]

Hello Frank T

There are several reasons why I took this route. Engine drag, weight, cost of (new) replacement parts, never having to take off that damned pump again, simple wiring. I believe at idle the electric fan will put out much more air than the stock fan simply due to low engine rpm and the hydraulic fans lack of energy transfer to it at idle. The maximum rpm for the stock fan is 2300 as says the shop manual. Does anyone know how fast the engine needs to run in order to achieve that? I’m not sure of the gear/pulley ratio, plus you need to factor in the loss of energy to the pump and motor from the fluid. The Flex-A-Lite model 160 fan runs at 2450 rpm’s.

I would argue that the cfm is close to one another at mid rpm with the electric fan pushing more at lower rpm and the stock fan pushing more at high rpm. Both of the fans blades are 4 ¾” in length from the center piece to the edge. There is the 2” difference in diameter between the two fans. I wish I would have weighed the blades. The stock blade is 3 lbs. 5oz. I’m guessing from the feel of the other that it is less than a pound. I would say that the stock blade is 4-5 times as heavy.

I’ve tracked engine temperatures with a piece of equipment while driving and at idle. The temperature ranges between 198-214. It has never climbed past 214. It appears to cool effectively between thermostat cycles. There is a temperature adjustment for the model 160 fan that allows you to set the temp at which the fan starts. I have mine set at approx. 33%. The higher the set point the hotter your radiator temperature before the fan turns on. I forgot to mention the temperature probe in the initial write up. I’ve included a pic below. I drilled a ¼” hole in the shroud close to the return line of the radiator in order to push the temp probe through the fins. You can see the probe wire going into the hole and the tip of the probe through the radiator.
As far as overheating I don’t see a problem. However I do live in a cooler climate and use a lubricant additive which reduces engine temp. I’ll tell you more about that if you ask. It would be nice to figure out the stock fans cfm at variable rpm’s. I’m confident in this setup as a comparison to the oem specs.

I called a parts house and got their facts on gen1 and gen2 alternators. Gen1- 110 amps / Gen2- 160 amps.

Hey 112LS I do have the parts you need. I have a full setup from the 2001 and everything except the shroud from the 2002. PM me if interested. I will sell pretty cheap.

 

[MMAFIGHTER121]

Now that you've done the switch and given a bit of a drive does the engine feels like it revs up easier at all?

 

[HALFGIG]

Now that you've done the switch and given a bit of a drive does the engine feels like it revs up easier at all?

I wish I had an answer for you but I bought the car with a broken timing chain and I did the mod while putting it back together. Sorry. At idle you can feel some drag as the fan turns on.

 

[HALFGIG]

I made a mistake on my first post. I used 5/16" bolts instead of 1/4". The length is the same. I also cut off the excess bolt material that was sticking out passed the nut. There is a hose that sits very close to one of the nuts on the shroud. If you do this mod you may want to put a plastic cap on it as I have.

 

[Timer]

So what did you do with the pump and tank? Just leave them and loop the fluid lines?

 

[HALFGIG]

I removed both of them. I believe I read on here that someone has left the pump on there and just connected the suction and discharge lines together. That would keep the pump lubricated as long as there was fluid in the system

I may put mine back on if necessary. The belt turns 180 degrees from the alternator without the power steering pump on there. Pretty tight turn. I have concerns about it but I'm letting the mileage be the test. So far I have 4000 miles on it and there are no signs of excessive wear.

The belt length that I used is 100 5/8".

 

[Timer]

Sorry to ask so many questions, but, did you route the belt using the idler the belt used to go under-between the water pump and fan pump, or did you route the belt straight from the alternator to the water pump? It looks like it wont make it straight to the water pump from the alternator on mine and would have to go over the top-not under- the idler... I already put electric fans on but I really want the pump, lines, and fluid cooler off asap

 

[HALFGIG]

I routed it from the Alternator over the top of the Idler to the Water Pump. There is very little clearance but it works. This is a GEN 1. I'm not sure if the GEN 2's are the same or not.

I would like to find an Idler that size (or a little bit smaller) with the ribs on it. Right now the ribs ride on the flat Idler. If I throw a belt with low miles I'll post it. So far it all looks fine approx >4000 miles

 

[Timer]

Cool, Thanks for the help and great info!

 

[87GN]

I removed both of them. I believe I read on here that someone has left the pump on there and just connected the suction and discharge lines together. That would keep the pump lubricated as long as there was fluid in the system

I may put mine back on if necessary. The belt turns 180 degrees from the alternator without the power steering pump on there. Pretty tight turn. I have concerns about it but I'm letting the mileage be the test. So far I have 4000 miles on it and there are no signs of excessive wear.

The belt length that I used is 100 5/8".

You wouldn't happen to have part # for that belt would ya?

 

[oddball]

Just hit up any auto shop and ask for a 6 rib 100 5/8" belt. They'll let you know what they have that's close to that length. Mine ended up being 100 1/8".

 

[HALFGIG]

I removed both of them. I believe I read on here that someone has left the pump on there and just connected the suction and discharge lines together. That would keep the pump lubricated as long as there was fluid in the system

I may put mine back on if necessary. The belt turns 180 degrees from the alternator without the power steering pump on there. Pretty tight turn. I have concerns about it but I'm letting the mileage be the test. So far I have 4000 miles on it and there are no signs of excessive wear.

The belt length that I used is 100 5/8".

OOPS! I meant "The belt turns 180 degrees from the alternator without the FAN pump on there.