Drag race front brakes.

Right on the Mark

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Ok I'm going to have to make a disclaimer here because this is my car and I work on it how I please. This write up does not imply that this is the only way to do this or the best way.Just way I did it. That said,on we go.

I hated putting the stock front brakes back on Red with the cast iron calipers. They also drag alot when trying to spin the wheels. I priced out Mustang drag brake setups and price was around 750 dollars that was a NO-GO. The non vented rotor kit also has max car weight of 3000 lbs so no way I could run that kit. The vented rotor kit I could run but 700+ dollars. I really just wanted alum calipers. Hmmm 2000 Mustang GT PBR's are alum. The GT rotor is also 10.9 dia compared to mk8 11.5.

I picked up these from local yard for 60 dollars. Big plus told him I need pads to come with them. They are Wagner Thermoquiets half life. Also he included lines because I needed the 3/8-24 banjo bolts that these calipers use. He would not sell me the used GT rotors. Bummer. But me being cheap went upstairs and found the original rotors I took off Red in 2007. They where like brand new. So not a penny spent on rotors. Here are the rotors being turned down to GT dia.
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Now to get the rotors on the rotary table I had to make the 3 piece fixture. Here are all pieces laid out.
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Here are all pieces bolted to rotary table.
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The rotor vents didn't line up with the 0 on table so I had to insert bar and indicate the rotor vent with table on 0. Now clamp rotary table down.
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All centerdrills.
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All drilled
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All mounted and looking good.
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Everything worked mint at track no problems.
 
Mini brake kit.

I like the idea of a lighter mark viii, especially rotational mass, however a cobra brake swap weighs about the same as the stock parts, but brake much better and it can be bought and installed a lot more reasonably compared to other brake kits.

If your car was a full blown drag car only and not a street car this would make perfect sense, but if weight loss is what you are after, you would be better suited in losing the weight in other areas of the car IMHO.

You get an A for effort.
 
Looks great! Do you know though about where those calipers hit the spindle when the pads wear down? The caliper just needs to be ground down a bit in one spot.
 
Looks great! Do you know though about where those calipers hit the spindle when the pads wear down? The caliper just needs to be ground down a bit in one spot.

What do you think? LOL I forgot to mention that in the write up. I had to machine the pass caliper where the line bolts on too.
 
I figured you knew, but wouldn't hurt to ask.

Yeah it's good to have that info out there. I had to trim the tin backing plate tiny bit on bottom too.Also need to use the mk8 caliper bracket mounting bolts and NOT the Mustang ones. I forgot to take pics of that stuff. I don't think anyone would be going to smaller brakes on a Mk8 though anyway.
 
Very nice do we get some pretty and post weights.
Also I would recommend braking all the corners off your new holes if you haven't done so.
 
Very nice do we get some pretty and post weights.
Also I would recommend braking all the corners off your new holes if you haven't done so.

Really? LOL It's funny if I don't list every machining step someone mentions it. LOL I am not going to list every single operation. The holes have a .022 chamfer on them.
 
Really? LOL It's funny if I don't list every machining step someone mentions it. LOL I am not going to list every single operation. The holes have a .022 chamfer on them.
I was not criticizing or saying your skipping a step
But I was taught the use of a corner rounding end mill is the way to go to prevent cracks
 
Why yes they do the holes are a cylinder not a sphere.
So the surface perpendicular to the cylinder creates a corner with the cylinder and a corner collects heat and will crack easy.

I was kidding, I knew what ya meant
 
I was not criticizing or saying your skipping a step
But I was taught the use of a corner rounding end mill is the way to go to prevent cracks

I know it just cracks me up. When I drill centerdrills I make them .420 dia. Then when drilled with a .375 drill it leave a chamfer. Then I only have to chamfer the other side. If you look at the first drilled pic you can see the chamfers.
 
But how ya gonna chamfer the inside of the bore?

I don't do a lot of racing, but this just seems really really dangerous

If it works good, if its for weight reduction.. taking the floor mats out would be more weight off.
 
But how ya gonna chamfer the inside of the bore?

I don't do a lot of racing, but this just seems really really dangerous

If it works good, if its for weight reduction.. taking the floor mats out would be more weight off.

Ok I'm going to have to make a disclaimer here because this is my car and I work on it how I please. This write up does not imply that this is the only way to do this or the best way.Just way I did it. That said,on we go.
 
I wasn't trying to give you crap man, I think you do amazing work. I wish I had a quarter of the knowledge you had. As for the thing about grinding the caliper for clearance on the spindle, the t-bird guys like to do this upgrade a lot. Before I did the cobra swap, I had a set of GT calipers on hand and was about to do that swap. Glad you got it fixed up, I love seeing your write ups.
 

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