Dead battery, no trunk access.. HELP !!

LS6_5SPD

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I left my parking lights on overnight. Now the battery is DEAD !! My car doesnt have the original trunk cause it was hit years back and now it has another one, so my key wont open it, and the back seats wont fold down other than from inside the trunk. Now Im stuck, even tho is 5spd I think pushing it and try to start it is pointless as the battery is completely dead !! plus I cant unlock the steering wheel..
I spoke with cammerfe and he told me to look under the car for a connection so I can use jump cables but I cant figure it out.

PLEASE GUYS HELP ME !! Its a 2000.
 
Pull the passenger wheel. Take off the wheel well liner that's on the firewall side. You'll see a positive terminal. I've heard you can use this, but I do not know for sure. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO UNTIL SOMEONE CHIMES IN WITH A CONFIRMATION THAT IT'S OKAY.

What about those chargers that plug into the cigarette lighter?
 
The safe and easy thing is to plug one of those chargers into the power port. After a while, you should have enough power to pop the trunk. (Leave the doors closed while charging.)
 
There is no steering wheel/ignition interlock. All Lincoln LS are 5 speeds, I'm sure you meant manual. You can get a screw driver in the back seat latch, it just takes a little time and effort. There is a positive spot behind the wheel fender cover for a point to jump. You can put 12v to the back of trunk switch to open the trunk, this is the best bet.
 
... You can put 12v to the back of trunk switch to open the trunk, this is the best bet.

That may or may not work for gen I. The trunk release button on the gen II does not go to the trunk release solenoid. It goes to an electronic module that tells the REM (Rear Electronics Module) to activate the solenoid. Applying power to the input of an electronic module when that module is not powered is likely to cause damage to the module.
 
That may or may not work for gen I. The trunk release button on the gen II does not go to the trunk release solenoid. It goes to an electronic module that tells the REM (Rear Electronics Module) to activate the solenoid. Applying power to the input of an electronic module when that module is not powered is likely to cause damage to the module.

There might be enough power to pop the trunk by just touching together the two wires from the back of the switch.
 
pektel u always monitoring the forum huh !! dang prett much all of my threads first reply r yours lol !!
Ok, 2 day ago, my lighter fuse went off.. I replaced it.. couldnt make it work again. Idk what the heck happend, plus my LS doesnt have the lighter under the rear vents..
Can I get to that power port from underneath the car or I have to take off the wheel well anyhow?

gcwimmer yeah !! I meant manual so u guys know its a V6
Ima go downstairs and see if I can get the seats down so I can get into the trunk and pull the cord with the fluorescent handle. If I can do that I'll b set !!

joegr thanks dude !!
 
Don't say that I didn't try to warn you...

How would completing the circuit by by passing the switch do damage? This is what happens when you push the trunk release button.

I got this from your post February 22, 2010. Maybe the difference is in the generations or if there is power or not.

"Under the dash, behind the trunk unlock button are two wires. Disconnect then from the button and use an unbent paperclip to short the two wires together. The trunk will open."
 
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makes sense !! Ima go down now with all the options and post in a little bit.. thank u guys
 
How would completing the circuit by by passing the switch do damage? This is what happens when you push the trunk release button.

I got this from your post February 22, 2010. Maybe the difference is in the generations or if there is power or not.

"Under the dash, behind the trunk unlock button are two wires. Disconnect then from the button and use an unbent paperclip to short the two wires together. The trunk will open."

You will burn out the Driver's door module.

In a previous post, I advised that you could short the two pins on the switch to complete the circuit. I most certainly did not advise anyone to connect 12V to the back of the switch.

Here's the ten mile view of the circuit.

The switch connects to the driver's door module. It gives a logic level input to one of the IO pins of the driver's door module processor. If the processor is powered, then it sends a command via the communications bus to the REM. The REM receives the command (if it is powered) and it supplies power to the solenoid coil of the trunk release solenoid.

If you apply power to the back of the switch, it won't power the solenoid. It will burn out the processor of the driver's door module.
 
makes sense !! Ima go down now with all the options and post in a little bit.. thank u guys

Don't hit the release switch with power, it will burn out the DDM. I don't know GCwimmer's qualifications, but I am an electrical engineer. (Disclaimer: I have designed some automotive stuff, but not on the LS.)

The gen II has two power ports and one cigarette lighter socket. Not all of these are on the same fuse. How about the gen I. Does it have a power port in the center console like the gen II?
 
I still believe the best solution is to put power to the stud behind the splash shield in the passenger side front wheel well.

KS
 
I still believe the best solution is to put power to the stud behind the splash shield in the passenger side front wheel well.

KS

It's certainly sounding simpler now that we know the front power port fuse is blown.
 
There might be enough power to pop the trunk by just touching together the two wires from the back of the switch.

this would be the same as just pushing the button as simple switches dont consume power, since he can not open the trunk by just pushing the button, then this wont work.
 
this would be the same as just pushing the button as simple switches dont consume power, since he can not open the trunk by just pushing the button, then this wont work.

My confusion is that he started by saying to apply a 12V power source to the back of the switch. That would damage the DDM.

Shorting the wires at the back of the switch wouldn't do damage, but it wouldn't work anymore than pressing the button would.

The post were I advised (and it did work) shorting the contacts out with a paper clip was because the person involved had the switch locked and didn't have a key to unlock it.
 
Ok.. I definitely want to find the power thing under the car for future need. Is it accesable from underneath the car or I need to remove the wheel cover anyways?

Again, one of the seats wasn't locked to I had access to the trunk already, in fact I'm driving lol

I didn't have to use the trunk button thank God but it'll b great to have an acurate answer whether it is doable or it will mess something up.

Thank for repling guys !!
 
um.... possibly use the key in the trunk lock? unless i missed somthing about it not being there, ;)

ooops just read that u couldn't, sorry
 
My confusion is that he started by saying to apply a 12V power source to the back of the switch. That would damage the DDM.

Shorting the wires at the back of the switch wouldn't do damage, but it wouldn't work anymore than pressing the button would.

The post were I advised (and it did work) shorting the contacts out with a paper clip was because the person involved had the switch locked and didn't have a key to unlock it.

My memory of how to use/by pass the trunk release button was incomplete. Good to know about putting power to the 1st gen switch, would not want to make thing even more difficult. Should have done an original search before posting.

No I am not an Electrical Engineer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. :shifty:
 
My memory of how to use/by pass the trunk release button was incomplete. Good to know about putting power to the 1st gen switch, would not want to make thing even more difficult. Should have done an original search before posting.

No I am not an Electrical Engineer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. :shifty:

That's okay. I got a little carried away. I don't like the thought of damage being done to an LS.
 
Ok.. I definitely want to find the power thing under the car for future need. Is it accesable from underneath the car or I need to remove the wheel cover anyways?

Again, one of the seats wasn't locked to I had access to the trunk already, in fact I'm driving lol

I didn't have to use the trunk button thank God but it'll b great to have an acurate answer whether it is doable or it will mess something up.

Thank for repling guys !!

You'd have to take the cover off. You could always rig up a jump point under the hood like some GM cars have.

I'd check into having the trunk rekeyed or getting a key to fit it.
 
what you have to do is get a huge 2 story tall alluminum pipe and plug it into your cigarate lighter. need to push the car to a corner and give yourself enough room to reach 88 mph now at 12noon next saturday there will be a thunderstorm that will hit the corner of your house. you will need to get some metal cables from the corner of your house and have it cross the street now this part is critical. you need to some how push the car to 88mph by noon exact that will allow you to hit the metal cable with your alluminum rod at the same time lightning will strike your house this will produce the needed 1.21 gigawatts you will need to to charge up your car. but as a result you will need to change out your coils after you charge up your car.
 
That's okay. I got a little carried away. I don't like the thought of damage being done to an LS.
:Beer:Beer

what you have to do is get a huge 2 story tall alluminum pipe and plug it into your cigarate lighter. need to push the car to a corner and give yourself enough room to reach 88 mph now at 12noon next saturday there will be a thunderstorm that will hit the corner of your house. you will need to get some metal cables from the corner of your house and have it cross the street now this part is critical. you need to some how push the car to 88mph by noon exact that will allow you to hit the metal cable with your alluminum rod at the same time lightning will strike your house this will produce the needed 1.21 gigawatts you will need to to charge up your car. but as a result you will need to change out your coils after you charge up your car.

What year I am going to ?? :p


Can I order the trunk key thing that'll work with my current key, or I need to replace all.. trunk, ignition, door, glove box.. ?? I whish the dude who replaced the trunk lid would've kept the original one from the messed lid.. :(
 
...Can I order the trunk key thing that'll work with my current key, or I need to replace all.. trunk, ignition, door, glove box.. ?? I whish the dude who replaced the trunk lid would've kept the original one from the messed lid.. :(

It's probably possible. Ask Max if he can order one pre-keyed based on your VIN. It may also be possible to get a locksmith to rekey your existing trunk lock to work with your key.
 

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