Data Distance Error

damn.....this entire forum never has an answer for technical questions, the only thing that I ever see get a response is "4.10 gears, yada, yada, yada"......

does anyone know of any other lincoln forums where you can get a response to your technical questions? I can't believe the lack of info on this site with almost 4500 members
 
Anti-Lock Control and Module Assembly
Removal

Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).

Remove radiator upper sight shield.

Remove engine air cleaner outlet (ACL)(9600) and air cleaner outlet tube (9B659).

Remove battery acid shield.

Disconnect 28-pin connector attaching anti-lock brake control module (2B373) to wire harness.

Remove two tubes from inlet ports of the pump motor (2C256) and four (ABS/Traction Control) tubes from outlet ports of brake pressure control valve block (2C266). Plug each port to prevent brake fluid from spilling on paint and wiring.

Loosen 13mm nuts retaining the anti-lock control and module assembly to the mounting bracket. Tip the rear of the anti-lock control and module assembly up and pull rearward to slide the forward mounting pin out of the retaining grommets. Remove anti-lock control and module assembly from vehicle.






Item Part Number Description
1 — Rear Mounting Stud
2 2C266 Brake Pressure Control Valve Block
3 — Brake Tubes
4 2C219 Anti-Lock Brake Module
5 2C256 Pump Motor
6 — Inlet Ports (Part of 2C256)

Installation

Insert anti-lock control and module assembly mounting pin into front grommet on mounting bracket. Make sure anti-lock control and module assembly is fully seated in bracket. Install rear retaining nuts. Tighten to 16-24 Nm (12-18 il-ft).

Connect four tubes to outlet ports on side of brake pressure control valve block (2C266) and two tubes to inlet ports on top of pump motor (2C256). Tighten tube fittings to 14-24 Nm (10-18 lb-ft).

Connect 28-pin connector to anti-lock brake control module (2B373). Tighten bolt to 4.8 Nm (42 lb-in).

Install battery shield.

Install engine air cleaner (ACL)(9600) and air cleaner outlet tube (9B659).

Connect battery ground cable (14301).

Install radiator sight shield.

Bleed brake system. Refer to Section 06-06 .


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
its under the air cleaner and battery
sorry ive been busy working on my lincoln
 
jrhartman said:
damn.....this entire forum never has an answer for technical questions, the only thing that I ever see get a response is "4.10 gears, yada, yada, yada"......

does anyone know of any other lincoln forums where you can get a response to your technical questions? I can't believe the lack of info on this site with almost 4500 members
Click to expand...


:rolleyes:

We're sorry we didn't jump to attention when your highness posted, sir. We will know better from now on. We'll drop EVERYTHING, jump into our Technical Reference Books, and get you your information. Because, God fobid, you do some searching of your own.

Here is a nice service that I have been using for years. I'ts only 24 bucks the first year, then 14 thereafter.

www.alldatadiy.com

That way, you don't have to listen to our "4.10 gear" talk.

Oh, and you should put some 4.55's on that Conti.

:wave: :Beer :woowoo2:
 
Come on guys, he loves his car and freaks out when something happens. His join date says he is new to us and this is the reaction he gets? When I started looking at the "other" boards years ago I had problems with search functions and getting answers I understood. The continental forum isn't quite as active so he took the time to find similar info on the mark viii forums, you got to admit that is trying!

BTW, does the conti abs require cycling the abs pump when bleeding? That was not mentioned.
 
Fair enough, benchmark.

I don't disagree with what you said. At least he did try...

I do however disagree with his attitude in the 2nd post. IMHO, he came across like he thought he was ENTITLED to an answer to his question. It just irks me when you have someone who jumps on a forum, demands an answer to his/her question, and then is not heard from again, until another problem arises. I see that he has indeed posted in a couple of other threads, which is good and all.

But the whole snide remark(s) in post number 2 did not need to be said. I hate to see a fellow lincoln owner to go another forum, but if he's not happy here, maybe he should join another lincoln forum... We'll miss him, sure... Till we get our sopes sighted in again.

/rant
 
aristo: I sincerely appreciate that information.

FWIW: I have searched this forum and found nothing useful with respect to the ABS PUMP, for some reason this search function search for "ABS" or "PUMP" not "ABS" AND "PUMP" so it pulled up threads about PS pumps, water pumps, etc.

I just picked up this car and I would like to get the speedometer working, so obviously after waiting 3 days without any type response, I was getting irked. Normally on a forum of this size you get a response with the information you need within a day at the most. I moderate two forums that are about 2k members strong so I was shocked at the lack of responses that I had seen re: technical questions. IMHO, of course

I have heard that the pump does require cycling while bleeding, is there a thread on here that tells you that procedure.
 
Hydraulic System Bleeding
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for service or replacement, air may enter the system causing a spongy pedal action. Bleed the hydraulic system after it has been properly connected to make sure that all air is expelled.


Brake Master Cylinder Bleeding

When a new brake master cylinder (2140) has been installed or the brake system has been emptied or partially emptied, fluid may not flow from the bleeder screws during normal bleeding. It may be necessary to prime the system using the following procedure:

CAUTION: Brake fluid is harmful to painted and plastic surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled onto a painted or plastic surface, immediately wash it with water.

Use a tubing wrench to remove the brake tubes from the master cylinder.

Install short brake tubes in the brake master cylinder and position them so that they point back into the reservoir and the ends of the pipes are submerged in brake fluid.

Fill the reservoir with new High Performance DOT-3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AB or DOT-3 equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A.

Cover the reservoir with a clean shop towel.

Pump the brakes until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out of both brake tubes.

Remove the short brake tubes and reinstall the ones from the vehicle.

Bleed each brake tube at the brake master cylinder using the following procedure:

Have an assistant pump the brake pedal (2455) 10 times and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the front brake tube fitting with a tubing wrench until a stream of brake fluid comes out. Have your assistant maintain pressure on the brake pedal until the brake tube fitting is tightened again.
Repeat this operation until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out from around the tubing fitting.
Repeat this bleeding operation at the rear brake tube fitting.
If any of the brake tubes or calipers have been removed, it may be helpful to prime the system by gravity bleeding it. This should be done after the brake master cylinder is primed and bled.

To prime the brake system:

Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478) with new High Performance DOT-3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AB or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A.
Loosen both rear caliper bleeder screws and leave them open until clear brake fluid flows out. Do not let the brake master cylinder reservoir run dry. Check it often.
Tighten the bleeder screws.
One at a time, loosen the front caliper bleeder screws. Leave the bleeder screws open until clear fluid flows out. Do not let the brake master cylinder reservoir run dry. Check it often.
Tighten the bleeder screws to 7-13 Nm (61-120 lb-in).
After the brake master cylinder has been primed, the tubes bled at the brake master cylinder and the brake system primed, normal brake system bleeding can resume at each wheel.
Manual Bleeding

The primary and secondary (diagonal split) hydraulic brake systems are individual systems and are bled separately. Bleed the longest tube first on the individual system being serviced. During the complete bleeding operation, do not allow the brake master cylinder reservoir to run dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoirs filled with High Performance DOT-3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AB or DOT-3 equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A. Never reuse brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system or has been allowed to stand in an open container for an extended period of time.

To bleed the brake system, position a suitable box wrench on the bleeder fitting on the brake wheel cylinder. Attach a rubber drain tube to the bleeder fitting. The end of the tube should fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.

Submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid and loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three-quarters of a turn.

Have an assistant push the brake pedal down slowly through its full travel. Close the bleeder fitting, then return the brake pedal to full release position. Repeat this operation until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder tube.

When the fluid is completely free of air bubbles, secure the bleeder fitting and remove the bleeder tube.

Repeat this procedure for the opposite diagonal system. Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir after each system is bled and install the master cylinder reservoir cap and gasket. Make sure the diaphragm-type gasket is properly positioned in the master cylinder reservoir cap. When the bleeding operation is completed, the fluid level should be at the MAX line to 4.0 mm (0.16 inch) below MAX line.

After disc brake service, make sure that the disc brake pistons are returned to their normal positions and the shoe and lining assemblies are properly seated. This is accomplished by applying the brake pedal several times until normal pedal travel is established.

Check pedal feel. If brake pedal feels spongy, repeat bleed procedure.


Pressure Bleeding

For pressure bleeding, use a bladder-type bleeder tank only, such as Rotunda Brake Bleeder 104-00064 or equivalent.

Bleed the longest tubes first. The bleeder tank should contain enough new brake fluid to complete the bleeding operation. Use High Performance DOT-3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AB or DOT-3 equivalent fluid meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A. Never reuse brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system. The tank should be charged with approximately 69-206 kPa (10-30 psi) of air pressure.

CAUTION: Never exceed 344 kPa (50 psi) pressure to prevent system damage.

Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir cap. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid. Install the pressure bleeder adapter tool to the brake master cylinder and attach the bleeder tank hose to the fitting on the adapter. Master cylinder pressure bleeder adapter tools can be obtained from various manufacturers. Follow the instructions of the manufacturer to install the adapter.

Clean all dirt from the master cylinder reservoir cap.

If the rear disc brake calipers (2552) are to be bled, use a suitable box wrench on the bleeder fitting at the RH rear disc brake caliper. Attach a bleeder tube snugly around the bleeder fitting.

Open the valve on the bleeder tank to admit pressurized brake fluid into the brake master cylinder reservoir.

Submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid and loosen the bleeder fitting.

When air bubbles cease to appear in the fluid at the submerged end of the bleeder tube, close the bleeder fitting. Remove the tube. Replace rubber dust cap on bleeder screw.

Attach a bleeder tube and repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6 at the LHrear disc brake caliper.

On front brakes, repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6 starting at the RH disc brake caliper (2B120) and ending at the LH disc brake caliper.

When the bleeding operation is completed, close the bleeder tank valve and remove the tank hose from the adapter fitting.

After disc brake service, make sure disc brake pistons are returned to their normal positions and the shoe and lining assemblies are properly seated. This is accomplished by applying the brake pedal several times until normal pedal travel is established.

Remove the pressure bleeder adapter tool from brake master cylinder. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to between MAX line and 4.0 mm (0.16 inch) below MAX line. Install the brake master cylinder reservoir cap.


Anti-Lock Brake System Bleeding

Anytime service is performed on the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) valve block or pump and motor assembly, a special bleed procedure must be followed to make sure no air is trapped in the ABS control and modulator assembly. If this procedure is not done, the customer could experience a spongy pedal after ABS actuation.

Using Rotunda New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent:

Connect Rotunda New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent to the serial data link connector (DLC) below instrument panel as though retrieving codes.

Make sure ignition switch is in the RUN position.

Follow instructions on the NGS screen. Choose correct vehicle and model year, go to Diagnostic Data Link menu item, choose ABS Module, choose Function Tests and choose Service Bleed.

The NGS will prompt you to depress the brake pedal. Make sure you push hard on the brake pedal. You will need to hold down the brake pedal for approximately five seconds while the NGS opens the outlet valves in the brake pressure control valve block. When the outlet valves are opened, you should immediately feel the pedal drop. Make sure you push the pedal All the way to the floor (very important). The NGS will then instruct you to release the brake pedal. After you release the brake pedal, the NGS will run the ABS hydraulic pump motor for approximately 15 seconds.

Repeat Step 5 to make sure all air is flushed from the ABS unit. Upon completion, the NGS will display Test/Function Successful.

Bleed entire system using a manual or pressure bleed procedure as described.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------
only a very few of us have an NGS so you will need to give me a bit to inquire around for an alternate procedure.
john
 
SPECIFICATIONS
LUBRICANT/ADHESIVE/CLEANER SPECIFICATIONS Description Part Number Ford Specification
High Performance DOT-3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AB ESA-M6C25-A



TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Description Nm Lb-Ft Lb-In
Brake Master Cylinder Mounting Nuts 21-29 16-21 —
Power Brake Booster to Dash Panel Nuts 26-34 19-25 —
Brake Hose Connection to Caliper 40-54 30-40 —
Hydraulic Tube Connections—All a 16-20 12-14 —
Brake Tubes to Master Cylinder 16-20 12-14 —
Brake Pedal-to-Upper Cowl Panel Reinforcement Bolts 26-34 19-25 —
Bleeder Screws 7-13 — 61-120
Outlet Brake Tube Nut 14-24 10-17 —
Inlet Brake Tube Nut 14-24 10-17 —
Lug Nuts 115-142 85-104 —
Front Brake Hose Bracket Attachments 12-15 — 107-132
Brake Pressure Control Valve 12-15 — 107-132
Front Brake Hose to Front Side Reinforcement Bolt 12-15 — 107-132
Front Brake Hose to Hose Bracket Bolt 12-15 — 107-132
Brake Tube Retainer Bolt 6-8 — 54-70
Rear Wheel Brake Hose to Side Rail Reinforcement Bolt 12-15 — 107-132

a All hydraulic lines must be tightened to the specific torque value and be free of fluid leakage
 
its possible,but they are very exspensive(2000.00 new).but with an NGS you can do all services and diagnostics that the dealers do.
john
 
so if you don't have the $2000 scanner, which I can't imagine many people do, am I correct in assuming that the ABS pump cannot be replaced outside of a dealership? If if is possible do DIY, how?
 
ive heard it is possible,but i do have an NGS(700.00 ON ebay) i have been asking around for you but havent gotten a good responce yet.when i do ill let you know.
john
 
one thing i heard is that the only place to get abs done right is at the dealership somthing about million dollar aqupment that mechanics cant aford to buy for every car out there
so there for abs
go bad
ther go
dealership
 
bigdog1279 said:
one thing i heard is that the only place to get abs done right is at the dealership somthing about million dollar aqupment that mechanics cant aford to buy for every car out there
so there for abs
go bad
ther go
dealership
Click to expand...
dog you hear alot of things to keep you going back to dealerships.ive just finished putting in all new timing chains gears tensioners and oil pump in my 96 in car,but you are not supposed to be able to in car its supposed to be that the engine must be dropped out and is a 2000+ repair.well thats wrong it does take patience and time,but it really isnt a hard repair at all.
and just so you know it was all hand tools except i did use an electric impact to remove the harmonic balancer which it is claimed must be removed by dropping the engine 2 inches.again wrong if i had used the ford puller yes i would have,but i used a generic puller ive had for years that was able to miss the frame.my total cost has been 600 dollars but i also changed the alternator water pump power steering pump tensioner and pulley plus all hoses and belt.
john
 
When I had my pump assembly replaced with a junkyard part, I found a local shop that could properly bleed the system. Ask around, you can probably find a shop that can cycle the pump when bleeding.
 
97benchmark said:
When I had my pump assembly replaced with a junkyard part, I found a local shop that could properly bleed the system. Ask around, you can probably find a shop that can cycle the pump when bleeding.
Click to expand...

Did you drive the car at all between replacement and getting the system bled properly? If so can you describe how it was?

I picked up a replacement pump/assembly from another '97 Continental for $100 from a local yard. It should only take me about 45 minutes or so to get the pump installed. I am hoping that the car will be somewhat driveable so I can get it somewhere to get it bled properly.

Any experiences that you had with this would most certainly be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
 
cool that good im very happy that you got you pump in there
please let me know how it works if you break goes all the way to the ground when you realy need it to work
i dont understand maybe a small shop was saying they could do it there i know tensiners can be replaces at anyshop i have had them replaces without having to have the engine pulled i know that i had it done last winter
but the pump i have been not to small shops to big shops i even when to a chrysler dealship with my father when taking the
Prowler into the dealship for this week
befor the stor yeah dad is rich that dam bastard lol love him but dosnt shar mouch money he has a 98 or is 99 prowler i think
not shure on the year
but i when in there and even asked them if they could do it they sed they cant
so please explain how come the dealship and all the biger shops
like NTB
TireKingdom
you can find those also online by ading .com at the end of them
and goodyear shops sed they could not do it properly
so im just curious hey great im very happy if it worked for you man
i just no i dont wana take the chance plus i got a dealer that willing to do it real cheap and i get to bring my own junkyard part in couse that part is discontinued anyways so cool :)
 
bigdog1279 said:
cool that good im very happy that you got you pump in there
please let me know how it works if you break goes all the way to the ground when you realy need it to work
i dont understand maybe a small shop was saying they could do it there i know tensiners can be replaces at anyshop i have had them replaces without having to have the engine pulled i know that i had it done last winter
but the pump i have been not to small shops to big shops i even when to a chrysler dealship with my father when taking the
Prowler into the dealship for this week
befor the stor yeah dad is rich that dam bastard lol love him but dosnt shar mouch money he has a 98 or is 99 prowler i think
not shure on the year
but i when in there and even asked them if they could do it they sed they cant
so please explain how come the dealship and all the biger shops
like NTB
TireKingdom
you can find those also online by ading .com at the end of them
and goodyear shops sed they could not do it properly
so im just curious hey great im very happy if it worked for you man
i just no i dont wana take the chance plus i got a dealer that willing to do it real cheap and i get to bring my own junkyard part in couse that part is discontinued anyways so cool :)
Click to expand...


I have a buddy that has a Snap-on scanner that should be able to do the job, provided I can get the car to his shop once I get the pump installed.
 
If the junkyard pump was not drained then normal manual bleeding is good enough to get you to a shop. Just be careful. You may have a spongy pedal or there could be a trapped air pocket that could suddenly move to the wrong place and result in a very spongy pedal to almost no brakes at all. Even if your brakes seem fine after you install the pump, it is critical to cycle the abs pump during bleeding to get rid of the "hidden air pockets" that lurk in the deep dark bowels of the pump assembly. During abs activation they can enter the normal part of the system and if its enough air you will loose most braking ability suddenly.
 
jrhartman said:
I have a buddy that has a Snap-on scanner that should be able to do the job, provided I can get the car to his shop once I get the pump installed.
Click to expand...
will you email me or pm me ones you get it done id like to know how it worked out for you thanks
 
benchmark: I installed the "new" pump and I am going to do the standard "bleeding" tomorrow to see how that goes. The car still registers the "data distance error" and there is no odometer so I am assuming the speedo still doesn't work either. Did you car immediate register the ODO or did it not register anything until after the ABS Pump was bled properly.

I am going to be mightily pissed if I get the ABS pump cycled correctly and the speedo/ODO still don't work
 
jrhartman said:
benchmark: I installed the "new" pump and I am going to do the standard "bleeding" tomorrow to see how that goes. The car still registers the "data distance error" and there is no odometer so I am assuming the speedo still doesn't work either. Did you car immediate register the ODO or did it not register anything until after the ABS Pump was bled properly.

I am going to be mightily pissed if I get the ABS pump cycled correctly and the speedo/ODO still don't work
Click to expand...

i hope it works for you,but i still have suspicions that it isnt the answer.if no go let me know and ill scratch my head harder for you.
john
 
Yes, it worked after pump replacement. The problem with mine was electrical (corroded plug terminal at pump). The error is because the computer cant get data from the wheel sensor (mark viii) which tells the computer wheel rotation. From that the computer does the math for abs, trac control, mpg, trip meter, speedo and odometer. I don't remember your previous posts so a few questions. Did you get any codes? Have you checked wheel sensors ohm ratings (approx. 1300 ohms)? Clean the connections at the wheel sensors even if they look clean and use dielectric grease on them. I don't know what wheel contis get their data from so check the toothed rings at each wheel for damage and make sure each sensor is seated. It is a small wire to these sensors so check for damage to wire. Marks have a place in trunk that likes to wear through the wire. See if contis do. Do you have a message center? Does it give any errors? Do you have traction control (works thru abs pump and wheel sensors)? Did it work? Remember, the pump is only part of the abs assembly. Did you get the assembly (electrical and hydraulic) or just the pump itself?
Keep us posted!
 
i dont have traction COntrol
and i had it tested at the dealer when i was having waranty work done to another car they told me it was the pump
um ABS light is on on dash nothing on Message senter
 
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