coil on plug

D

droobie

LVC Member
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Boaz, Kentucky, United States
98 mark VIII LSC
think i had one of my coils starting to go out
think i should replace them all
is there any aftermarket source that far outperform the factory set up ?
 
Yes, Modular Depot has the GMS coil kit in stock for the 4V... I just have their Connecter kit (new boots and "wires"). The full kit with coils goes for over $400...
 
95LSC32V said:
Yes, Modular Depot has the GMS coil kit in stock for the 4V... I just have their Connecter kit (new boots and "wires"). The full kit with coils goes for over $400...
Click to expand...


What are the benefits to using this system?

Found this on the MFG site

•Direct OEM replacement, exceeds OEM specifications, OBD-II computer safe
•Increase power to the spark plug up to 400% over stock
•Adds up to 15HP (normally aspirated) & 35HP (s/c, turbo, & nitrous)
•0 Ohm resistance, no RFI / EMI interference thanks to patented protector ring
•Patented design works with all fuel injection systems, street cars and race cars
•Solid stainless connector cable with stainless snap lock spark plug connectors
•Optional 60,000 volt coils provide 40,000 more volts than factory coils, ideal for supercharged, turbo and nitrous applications where spark blowout from weak factory coils is common
•Improves mileage and throttle response
•Includes all necessary hardware
•Installs in approximately 1-hour using basic hand tools
 
i'm in the market for wires and plugs... am i better off going with something like this in a "kit"?
 
if you can do the work yourself so youre not paying labor just replace the 1 failing coil.


for the record: upgraded coils dont do anything unless youre either past the ability of the stock coils (doubt it) or your stock coils are in piss poor shape. (if this is the case youll see the same improvement from stock coils as you do from upgraded aftermarket coils)


what im sayng is dont expect to buy coils and gain 15HP
 
no, im just trying to replace worn parts to keep up with my tune... cuz right now im running rich after installing the walboro, because my old pump and filter were in bad shape. so im assuming i'm getting the correct fuel but now my spark the issue. because it wasnt running rich before the fuel pump. or its 02 sensors, but it wasnt the case before the fuel pump install. no sulfer semll at wot pre fuel pump and filter.
 
Nothing aftermarket is better than the oem coils. The motoblue silicone connectors are much better. I would isolate the bad coil and replace it. Then I would pull all 8 and check the boots, odds are your valve covers are prolly leaking and the oil took out the boots. If that is the case replace the valve cover gaskets, and then replace the boots.
 
The O/E coil p/N is a 4L7Z-12029-AA retails for 74.04 and LVC is $43.32 and includes the boot.
 
I've seen some pretty bad "experinces" with the GMS coils over on Modular Depot.... there is a current thread running over there.
 
mrzeee said:
LVC is $43.32 and includes the boot.
Click to expand...

That is a good price MAX. Way better than HorrorZONE.

You will find that once 1 coil goes, the rest will surely follow. Never at the same time. Some will go months longer.

How many miles on the car?

Over 100,000? Replace them all and be done with it.

Or torture yourself slowly replacing one at a time whenever the car develops a miss. Keep the old ones as extra spares.

Make sure you put a new spark plug in at the same time. DUH.

OEM are fine. Why take a chance unless you are blown?

IMHO.
 
Yeah... just replace the faulty coil... I've been doing a lot of research on these coils... there's not much difference between the OEM's replacements and the performance ones... the only reason I could see wanting to go the performance route is for the nicer connectors and silicone boots... but even then it's not really worth the extra cost since the OEM's work fine... maybe if you had NOS or a supercharger maybe... but from what everyone says the OEM's are just as good still
 
Stockers are the $hit. Dont waste yourt money go stock.

Again cars run 7's at 200 mph with 2500 hp with STOCK coils.
 
So guys, what's all entailed in replacing the valve cover gaskets, the ford repair manual shows removing the intake manifold and replacing the lower manifold gasket when doing so. As far as I can tell, I'm going to need the following:

Lower intake manifold gasket
Valve cover gaskets
RTV silicone (for sealing the two spots where engine front cover meets cylinder head)


what else???
 
Well, I've replaced the number 4 COP twice now, I noticed a very little amount of oil down there but not a whole lot. The car has 110,000 on the odometer now and just thought I might go ahead and replace them in the next few months.

The first time I replaced the COP it was from autozone, being as they're the only ones that stocked it and ,being my daily driver, I needed it. That one lasted six months and I had to replace it again, once again, replaced with another autozone. This one has lasted longer, but still waiting for it to fail.

I have saved both COP's thinking that it might just be the boots, but haven't gotten around to ordering the new boots yet.

What are your guys thoughts on replacing just the boot vs. replacing the whole COP?
 
You are going to need a F3LY-6584-A r/s gasket for $14.89 LVC and a F3LY-6584-B l/s gasket for $19.04 LVC and 8 s/plug seals F5LY-6C527-A for $3.46 each LVCtotal parts $61.61 LVC cost that is for the 96.
The 97 is F7LZ-6584-AA and BA which are $12.68 each and the same seals for $3.46 each. The boots for the cop are F7LZ-12A402-AA and are $14.99 each LVC price, for the 28.00 diff I would do the coil and boot as a set.
 
If you want to do it cheap just use Permatex Ultra Black on the plug seals (donut gaskets) have done that many times with great success, total cost $5.00.
 
Geno

So you're saying get the valve cover gaskets plus the plug seals and apply the permatex ultra black to the new plug seals.

Or are you saying get new valve cover gaskets and use the permatex on the old plug seals.
 
I think that the permatex is an emergency type of solution. You are best to do it correctly the first time....whether you get the seals from me or anywhere...it is a lot easier to do right once then several times when more problems arise. IMHO
 
Oh sure Max

Always trying to make a sale. Just messing with you, I'd rather do it right the first time so I don't have to mess with it again. I was just curious as to what Geno was trying to say. I didn't know if he suggested adding the permatex to the new seals for a better seal or if it was just a temporary fix.

Thanks
 
No No No I don't mean on the NEW stuff, you NEVER need any RTV for a new install just some gorilla snot. You can safely and FOREVER do the Permmatex on the OLD plug seals and it will last FORVER or damn near, works fine have done it MANY times.
 
Also for COP's the boost in 90% of the cases the boots are the cause. You can try just wrapping ALL the boots with real good electrical tape and it it works then your set for about $1.00.
 
So what do you do with that permmatex?... just goop it on carefully?... I have oil seapage from my one valve gasket... do you guys have any nifty ways of slowing it down?... I tried a gasket expander or whatnot... it helped for a little while... but any other crap we can do to help it out thanks :D
 
MatthewDavid said:
So what do you do with that permmatex?... just goop it on carefully?... I have oil seapage from my one valve gasket... do you guys have any nifty ways of slowing it down?... I tried a gasket expander or whatnot... it helped for a little while... but any other crap we can do to help it out thanks :D
Click to expand...

If your having a valve cover gasket leak 75% of the time the valve cover is warped.

I did it 3 times on the Wifes car with 175k and then I finally found out it was the valve cover being warped.

the Permatex I use on the donuts. I clean them thoroughly with 2+2 until they are literally squeaky clean then in the splits or crack of the gasket I get the RTV in the cracks as best you can then I use a thin film on both sides, let dry for 24 hours then re install.
 
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