Car will not crank... ideas?

[2000sport]

I've been having an intermittent no-start issue on the LS for about a month now.

When I go to crank it, it does nothing. PATS light is solid for a few seconds then turns off (when key is in RUN position).

I can feel the under-hood relays clicking, and have swapped the blower, PCM, and starter relays several times, to no avail.

Usually, in this situation, I can try a few times, and then wait 5 minutes or so and it will start.

But this morning, it did it at home and then again when I stopped to get gas, only after 45 minutes, I could not get it to start.

I have not yet tried another key, as I cannot find it. If it starts later tonight, its getting driven straight to the dealer.

In the meantime... any ideas?

2000 LS V6

 

[joegr]

Check the heavy connections at the starter and starter solenoid, under the car. If they are not loose/corroded, then you probably need a new starter. A quick check with a voltmeter would absolutely confirm this.

 

[2000sport]

I will check the starter motor connections, although I should have added that I cannot hear the fuel pump kick on either when it fails to crank.

 

[joegr]

I will check the starter motor connections, although I should have added that I cannot hear the fuel pump kick on either when it fails to crank.

Have you checked the relays and relay sockets in the trunk. (However, problems there should make the PATS light flash.)

 

[2000sport]

Not yet, since the PATS light has been solid.

 

[2000sport]

Joe, I figured I'd update this in case others have similar issues.

I've been driving my winter beater, now that I have it up and running, and had put the LS away for the winter.

I went to move it out of the garage the other day, and it didnt want to start again... Checked the battery, and the eye was once again red (this battery is a month old).

I lifted the car and noticed some corrosion on the main power terminal on the solenoid, and on the small wire going from the solenoid to the starter. I removed the starter to have it tested, and cleaned the connections.

Starter passed testing, although so did battery - but I had the battery replaced anyways.

New battery, starter reinstalled, starts fine. Warmed the car up during a spirited drive, came back home, and shut it off/restarted several times to be sure, but all seems good now.

I'm having the alternator tested tomorrow to see if it is failing, causing the batteries to go to **** so quickly.

I went through the entire Ford battery drain diagnostic (DMM on the battery, start pulling fuses, etc) and when the car was "asleep" drain was always within spec. So I do not believe I have something draining the battery - I think the alternator is not properly charging the battery.

Will update as soon as I get the alternator bench tested.

 

[oddball]

I, for one, am not convinced that bench testers accurately reproduce driving conditions for the LS. It's a good idea to keep a voltmeter with a cigarette lighter plug handy and just watch the voltage. If it stays below 14V when idling, then the alternator may be failing.

 

[2000sport]

I'm updating this thread, because after I posted this, the same problem has returned several times. Removing and cleaning the wires going to the starter has always given me several (3-4) months without issue. So I'm assuming that is still the problem.

I'm guessing that the plating has completely corroded off of the terminals attached to the wires, so corrosion builds up quickly after cleaning.

Ford no longer makes the wiring harness that goes to the starter, so I'm going to pull a section of wiring from a donor car and see if that finally does the trick.

If all else fails, I will break down and buy a new starter.

 

[Telco]

I'm guessing that the plating has completely corroded off of the terminals attached to the wires, so corrosion builds up quickly after cleaning.

Ford no longer makes the wiring harness that goes to the starter, so I'm going to pull a section of wiring from a donor car and see if that finally does the trick.

On the battery cable, you can make your own with 2GA welding cable. You can get the correct terminals from the welding shop, as well as a tool for attaching the terminals, and the parts store sells the correct battery mount. You may need to modify the terminals to make them fit correctly. I've used this method on several vehicles and it works well. I used 0GA on a 1996 Tahoe which was overkill, but I was able to crank the engine with the headlights on, and the headlights would not dim at all like they will with the factory cabling. Welding cable is far more flexible than battery cable and is designed to live in a far more harsh environment than battery cable is. I prefer to add cable loom on top of it for added impact protection. And, you can spray a little battery corrosion protection gunk on the terminals on both sides.

If you do this, might as well run a new wire to the alternator as well. In fact, the alternator to battery feed may stop off at the starter since the battery is in the trunk. This will give you a better charge to the battery since there will be less wire resistance.

 

[2000sport]

I was actually considering making my own harness for awhile, but since my LS is in need of a d/s center support bearing, which of course is no longer manufactured, I've been driving my bmw instead. But I had to put a starter motor in the bimmer over the weekend and managed to destroy one of the knock sensors, and am waitin for the new one to arrive before putting it all back together, and decided to drive the LS today. Drove it 3-4 times and then went to start it, and bam - there it is again. So as soon as the bimmer is out of my garage, the LS is going under the knife. Maybe I will breakdown and just buy a used driveshaft instead of waiting for the never ending production delays on this stupid CSB.