Brembo's on The Mark

mlschultz

mlschultz

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Here is a list of items/part numbers being used to convert my Mark VIII hubs over to Mustang 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern, and also what is needed to convert the fronts over to a Brembo 4 piston big brake setup.

Please note that you will need 18" rims to clear the Brembo's. Even then, check with your rim manufacturer to make sure that your 18's will clear them. I had to have my rims custom made to clear the Brembo's. I will post pictures of the install in 2 weeks.


M2300X Ford Racing/Brembo 13in 2000 Cobra R Front Brake Kit

136-2261002 Baer Eradispeed Extreme Plus 2 piece Front Brake Rotors for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra

DP31031C EBC Brake Pads for 2000 Cobra R/Brembo Brakes

9904HABA Front Hub and Bearing Assembly for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra

136-2262001 Baer Eradispeed Extreme Plus 2 piece Rear brake rotors for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra

YR3Z1109AA Rear Hub for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra IRS

E9DZ1215A Rear Wheel Bearing for 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra IRS

BR57B Rear brake pads for 1994-1998 Lincoln Mark VIII

Big Ed's Caliper Relocation Kit

Classic Tube SS Brake Line Kit



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are you doing the work on the rears or having a shop do it because the rears require ALOT of grinding on the knuckle and caliper bracket and many test fits.

Also THREAD LOCK they have a tendency to walk out on ya.

And HOPE TO GOD that your axle isn't seized in the hub on the passenger side. If you cant get it out with a simple hub puller, start looking for a new axle and knuckle. gen1 and gen2 will work.

the fronts took no time to do, the rears took MONTH's off of my life. Here are some pictures to help you.

http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n285/phreaknes/lincoln/brakes/
 
No, I am having all the work done by Aric Carrion with Injected Engineering. Here is a link to more info regarding my build, that they have completed so far:

http://www.injectedengineering.com/listing.php?listingid=15&pageid=76

I have had the entire rear already rebuilt, except for the new brakes and hubs being done now. I have brand new Raxle SC T-Bird half shaft axles installed, along with some extra diff bracing, 410's and T-Lock. Guess from your experience, I made the right choice to have Aric do this install :)


markmodsraxles002.jpg



themarksc1005-1.jpg



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markmods410s003.jpg
 
Just and FYI, the 1998 Mustang Cobra 17x8's are supposed to clear the brembo calipers. Also 1995 Mustand Cobra R 17x9's will clear.
 
The SC half shafts are holding their own so far helping me get low 1.8 60' times at the drag strip on 255 drag radials on stock rims with 401rwhp.

I am having the sway bar modified to tuck 285/35/18 Toyo tires inside the rear wheel wells, and will be using at least a 285 drag tire at the track with anywhere between 400 and 500rwhp when the motor is stroked and forged in the next month or two. That will be the real test for the axles. If they snap, which I doubt, Injected Engineering can have a set made to withstand whatever amount of hp so that will never happen again.

About the rims... the message is, to check and make sure the rims will work with the Brembo's before you buy them. My first rim choice, custom made Forgeline 18's, would not clear the Brembo's. The Forgeline engineers tried everything to make them work from the measurements that Aric at Injected Engineering provided to them, but the numbers were not there to fit without interference. I had to go with my second pick - Boze 18's mounted on 255/40's in the front and 285/35's in the rear.
 
Dropped the Mark off at Injected Engineering today :) Aric is going to start the transformation after he is done tuning a car. Here are some pictures of one of the Boze rear rims with the correct bolt pattern, and the Classic Tube SS brake lines. Tyler was kind enough to weigh the rear rim for me, and it came in at 24 1/2 pounds. All goes well, it might be done this week :)





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I will be very disappointed if I can't squat like that anymore. I have gone to great lengths to have the custom made 18x10 wheels and tires fit inside the wheel well, and to keep the Mark lowered. No 4x4 look for this Mark. :)

Once the hubs, brakes, rims and tires are on the car, it is going to be taken to Joey Bell - Bell Chassis Works, to modify the rear sway bar, and make sure it will have the same stance it has now, along with the squat :)

That is the plan anyways... :)
 
mlschultz said:
I will be very disappointed if I can't squat like that anymore. I have gone to great lengths to have the custom made 18x10 wheels and tires fit inside the wheel well, and to keep the Mark lowered. No 4x4 look for this Mark. :)

Once the hubs, brakes, rims and tires are on the car, it is going to be taken to Joey Bell - Bell Chassis Works, to modify the rear sway bar, and make sure it will have the same stance it has now, along with the squat :)

That is the plan anyways... :)
Click to expand...

Hah. Well I truly wish you luck, I'll smile if you post and say you don't rub..

mlschultz said:
I am having the sway bar modified to tuck 285/35/18 Toyo tires inside the rear wheel wells,
Click to expand...

BFG 275's with perfectly ideal offset and backspacing on 18x9's cut it real close after the rear lips and bumper cover are modified on mine.... And I have the addco 1 3/8? (if I remember correctly) and the swaybar was the least of my worries, but in order to clear your quarters with a 1" wider wheel you'll have to dip into it. I'm thinking you'll rub on the inside, where the shock mounts, if you haven't modified it.. I think you might rub pretty bad actually. :cool: You might be able to heat it up and sink it in some though. When I'm low a piece of construction paper won't clear on either side. It'll be interesting to see your results.
 
There was no guessing with these rims. Everything was measured on the car, and the specs were then given to Boze to build the rims to Aric's spec's.

Boze screwed up the first set of rims by drilling the Mark VIII bolt pattern in them. At over $4k a set, there was no way I was going to have them use spacers and re-drill them for the Mustang bolt pattern. They had to start over and make a new set.

Before Aric shipped the first set of rims back to Boze, he mounted them (without tires) on the Mark. The offset is perfect, and the rim just hits the sway bar when snugged up just as he wanted them to. They might have to roll the fenders - at a last resort, but the goal here was to keep everything inside without body work. On the stock rims, I measure 22 1/2" from the bottom of the rim to the top of the wheel well.

Joey Bell is the man when it comes to custom chassis fab work. He will make it all work. :)
 
The rims look great but I hate to be the bearer of bad news... They are only ~9" wide rims. Rim widths are measured from the inside edges where the bead sits. My 8.5" rims measure 9.5" edge to edge...
What size tire are you putting on them?
 
I agree they are 9", and that is how they were ordered. For wheel well fitment discussion, I called them 10", because that is what they actually measure. This is the widest rim I could use with that particular wheel center section and still have a tiny lip.

Originally, they were 10" (11" measured), but Boze came back and said there would be a lip on the fronts, and no lip on the rear. In fact, these are two piece rims that are usually bolted together with the bolts pointed inboard, but the centers are pushed so close to the edge they had to weld them instead. These are one of a kind rims. Boze has never made a set of rims for a Mark VIII before mine. Sorry if I confused anyone. :)

The tires are:


Front: Toyo Proxes T1R 255/40ZR18

Rear: Toyo Proxes T1R 285/35ZR18


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mlschultz said:
Before Aric shipped the first set of rims back to Boze, he mounted them (without tires) on the Mark. The offset is perfect, and the rim just hits the sway bar when snugged up just as he wanted them to. They might have to roll the fenders - at a last resort, but the goal here was to keep everything inside without body work. On the stock rims, I measure 22 1/2" from the bottom of the rim to the top of the wheel well.

Joey Bell is the man when it comes to custom chassis fab work. He will make it all work. :)
Click to expand...


If a 9" wheel's hitting the swaybar already you can't have perfect offset. .. I have the larger swaybar and never hit, and don't have any clearance inside, with perfect camber, and a 275mm tire. I'm sure I sound an ass but really I'm not trying to. ..
 
We are good. Rather than go back and forth about what will and won't fit - all that measurement stuff has already been decided, I will post a bunch of pictures in the next couple days of the rims and tires on the car. :)

We are waiting for the front SS lines from Classic Tube to arrive. I was told they have the correct fitting on them for the Brembo calipers. Should be here tomorrow. I should have some pictures of the progress by Friday or Saturday.
 
If Thomas doesn't have the hook up on stainless lines anymore I might have to get some contact info from you for some stainless lines, see if they have fittings for cobra calipers.

Hopefully your stuff comes together. Even squatting you might not be so low that you rub. Seeing brembo calipers on a mark will definately be interesting.
 
haha. Looks good! I have to say you have some balls. Hopefully the clearance works out once the weight of the car is on the suspension. Keep us posted..
 
Thanks Guys :) All the props though, need to go out to Aric Carrion with Injected Engineering. He is the one that made this build reality. I just paid the bills...

BTW, lol, He said anyone doubting all this stuff won't fit on the Mark owes him a bottle of Crown Royal :p

www.injectedengineering.com
 
Mmm those progress pics look good :)
Let us know how you like the T1Rs. You may find they chunk if you do any track use, but they are great on the road. That will look mean with the 285s on the rear :gr_devil:
I wish I had the cash to do the Brembos and rotors on mine, the stocker look so tiny with the 20's on it, and I'm the extra stopping power will be a huge bonus.
Good luck and keep us posted :)
 
mlschultz,
When you converted to 5x4.5 did you keep the same OEM wheel offset or did you use the offset of a mustang? What is your front wheel offset? I have a Wilwood kit for a 97 mustang and wondering if I need to convert the hubs and get new wheels? or drill the rotors for 5x4.25? Just wondering about wheel clearance issues before I drill those expensive hats!
One more question, Are the mustang hubs identical to the marks? With the only exception being the bolt pattern? Thanks, Tom
 
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