Brake Warning Light

Trippen Out

Trippen Out

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Hey what does the brake light on the dash indicate? i know it means something is not right but what could cause the light to go on. under normal braking everything is fine no light at all. however, if i hit the brakes kinda hard the dash light lights up. what should i look at when considering fixing it?
 
jamie97lsc said:
the fluid level would be the first place to start lol!
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ht

lmao...
right?

Gone are the days of lifting the hood
at the first sign of trouble or warning light.. let;s see what the internet says is wrong with my car

haha

+2 for low fluid..

even if you open it up and see fluid, if the light is flickering under heavy braking...the fluid is low
 
fluid lvl is fine. already checked that. thanks for assuming im a complete tard. god i love you guys

so if the fluid lvl is fine. do ya think i might need to bleed the system ?
 
add some fluid like i said, and dont be a tard.
I'll bet it'll hold 4-6 ounces and that will make all the difference in the world.

I knew you were gonna come back and say "the fluid is fine" which is why I said what did..just because you can see fluid doesnt mean its not full and will slosh around under aggressive driving or braking
 
Trippen Out said:
do ya think i might need to bleed the system ?thanks for assuming im a complete tard.
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if your only indication of a problem or needing to bleed your brakes is a warning light burning under heavy braking then our "ASSUMPTION" as you put it might not have been that far off.

and, remember it was you that brought "tard to the conversation".

the only assumption I actually made is that your brakes function normally and properly except that when you hit the brakes hard the brake light comes on.

if that is the case, no i dont think you need to bleed your brakes, and yes I THINK you need to pour some fluid in the resevouir
 
the res is filled to the top. thats why i say it was fine. im not denying the tardation ive been told more then once ive smoked my self stupid. i was just wondering if the light might be tides to the abs system or something else.
 
Did you check the parking brake to see if it's all the way up?

Also, if you unplug the switch at the brake fluid tank ,and the light goes out, you might have a bad float switch. Mine went bad on my red Mark.
 
billcu said:
Did you check the parking brake to see if it's all the way up?

Also, if you unplug the switch at the brake fluid tank ,and the light goes out, you might have a bad float switch. Mine went bad on my red Mark.
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This happened to me a few months ago. I needed front brakes and I changed them and the light was still on. I finally put my foot all the way down and the light went off. I had a real blonde moment. And yes my fluid was filled
 
Abbens said:
This happened to me a few months ago. I needed front brakes and I changed them and the light was still on. I finally put my foot all the way down and the light went off. I had a real blonde moment. And yes my fluid was filled
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a friend of my suggested checking the pads he said something about an srs system that might be trying to indcate the pads are worn.

billcu said:
Did you check the parking brake to see if it's all the way up?

Also, if you unplug the switch at the brake fluid tank ,and the light goes out, you might have a bad float switch. Mine went bad on my red Mark.
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yea parking break is fine. light doesnt stay on steady so im thinking maybe not a bad float.

jrherald420 said:
Im betting low blinker fluid........:D :D
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no thats good i remember having to find a metric crescent wrench in order to refill them after i rotated the air in my tires
 
if your brakes work fine then put a sticker over the stupid light maybe its broke!
 
mark82nv said:
if your brakes work fine then put a sticker over the stupid light maybe its broke!
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im sorry i dont believe in doing something like that. if the light is broke. which i doubt it is then i would fix the light instead of ignoring the warning systems. i see people say hide the light or take the bulb out all the time. i think they should have their nuts wacked off, becuase enough stupid people already had the chance to breed and its not helping the gene pool
 
The only thing connected to the red brake indicator is the brake fluid level switch, the parking brake switch, and the ignition switch, (oh, and the daytime running module, but I don't think you have those there.) These are the areas to look at, the fluid switch being the most tempremental as the guys are so nicely trying to point out ;)
The check anitlock brakes indicator is connected to the antilock brake conrtol module, so should have codes set if that one comes on...
 
Well, Im 600 mles from my car and am without the books, but I have ideas to trace the source! :D (wish I was with my car, I'd go play)

Now, I'm thinking that if all was well and one of the connectors (brake fluid sensor or park brake switch) were disconnected, the red warning light would come on. (or off? Anway, something will happen)

So, onto my theory:

If he were to disconnect the fluid level sensor connector, then bridge it's pins, that would turn the light off (or on?), if, that was the source of the problem.

Same deal with park brake switch.

Anyway, something should happen if either problem connector was bridged, yes?

So, basically, whichever connector you bridge that solves the light, the problem is in that area - likely fluid level senor or maladjusted or faulty park brake switch. (mine was a badly adjusted park brake switch that with the slightest touch of the park brake pedal, would turn the light on and off)

Make sense?
 
mark82nv said:
if your brakes work fine then put a sticker over the stupid light maybe its broke!
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Hate to admit this but after hunting the problem for two years and never finding it (lean code bank 2) I gave up and electrical taped over the spot. :D
leaving-1.gif

93' Blue on blue said:
Well, Im 600 mles from my car and am without the books, but I have ideas to trace the source! :D (wish I was with my car, I'd go play)

Now, I'm thinking that if all was well and one of the connectors (brake fluid sensor or park brake switch) were disconnected, the red warning light would come on. (or off? Anway, something will happen)

So, onto my theory:

If he were to disconnect the fluid level sensor connector, then bridge it's pins, that would turn the light off (or on?), if, that was the source of the problem.

Same deal with park brake switch.

Anyway, something should happen if either problem connector was bridged, yes?

So, basically, whichever connector you bridge that solves the light, the problem is in that area - likely fluid level senor or maladjusted or faulty park brake switch. (mines was a badly adjusted park brake switch that with the slightest touch of the park brake pedal, would turn the light on and off)

Make sense?
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If you short the pins together that would be the same as the sensor reading a full resivoir in the brake system. I had a faulty sensor and thats how I diagnosed it, forgot all about that.
 
OK, cool - couldn't remember what was what. (of course, if things did work the other way around (light off when connector unplugged) diagnosis wouldn't even warrant a wire bridge)

So, if he bridges across the 2 pins of either connector, that should turn the light off IF it's a problem with either sensor thingy. (assuming the obvious stuff is ok)
 
E brake, parking brake, that thing on the floor! Lol.

So:

1. Get in and start car - light is on.

2. Check E brake is off and fluid is full

3. Unplug fluid sensor connector and bridge across it's 2 pins with thin wire - No change? Plug back in and move to E brake switch. Light went off? Problem with sensor / float.
 
if it wasnt for us inbreeders you guys wouldnt have to pleasure of watching us on the jerry springer show and know that no matter how pathetic your lives can be that there is somone out there that is soo stupid and inbred that they will come on a show and admit they cheated on there cousin with their sister and that they all got pregnant but arent sure who or what the father is! long live the trailer park boys!
 
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