anyone remove the rear subframe (k frame) from their LS?

[Kirk Washer]

Just wondering if anyone here has removed the read subframe (k frame) from their lincoln LS?

How hard was it?

 

[milehighmikey]

I've done mine 3 times. If you have a lift, it is not too bad. It does require some thought, however. You need to drop the exhaust from the cats back, then remove the heat shield and drive shaft, pull the calipers and suspend them free of the sub frame, and disconnect your e brake cables or whatever setup you have, then you will need to remove the 4 long bolts for mounting the sub frame to the car body. They can be difficult, if you live in a rust belt state. Be prepared for some heavy weight when this is ready yo come down. If you work from the ground and not a lift, you may need a transmission jack to accept the weight, as the differential and axles add a lot of weight to the assembly. I left my control arms on and I believe that I disconnected the shocks from the lower control arms. Once safely supported on the floor, I was able to remove all other parts. I did this because I had three failures of the body mount bushings. I was able to replace the bushings through a jaguar S type part retailer, since they sell the bushings, unlike Ford, who only had a complete rear sub frame as a maintenance philosophy, nothing smaller. The old bushings were able to be burned out of the sub frame. They burn around 20 minutes and make a heck of a mess since they flow out liquified rubber when they burn. Make sure if you do this, you do this outdoors. I think that the old bushings could be pressed out instead of burning.

 

[DeviLSh]

Thanks for the write up Mikey,

When I did my rear sway bushings I lowered the rear frame adhering to the OEM repair manual, and 3 out of 4 bolts came out easy as butter. (Florida car, one winter here in Chicago). However - the 4th bolt was very stubborn. I was able to get it about 10-12 full turns before it started to seize up. Turning (more like slapping a bit at a time) with a breaker bar. I was so afriad I was going to snap the bolt I stopped, as I had enough room with the other three being out to access my sway bar brackets. The bolt went back in, but it was at a similar level of difficulty.

I dont know if these were dirty threads, corroded, or if this bolt was cross threaded at some point on install or repair before I had the car.

I plan on eventually lowering my frame when I upgrade to the mk8 IRS Diff swap - but I am at a loss on how to get this thing out when I get to that point. If I damage the threads on the body of the car, I am not sure if that can be repaired. (shrug)

 

[cammerfe]

Several years ago I put a Volare front suspension into my '63 F-100 ICB truck. It, too, was held in place with big bolts. So that I'd never have trouble with corrosion I used lengths of stainless steel 'all-thread' and 'nylock' nuts instead of bolts.

If you break the corroded bolt on your LS, a 'hot-wrench' is your friend. And if the threads in the body are damaged, you can simply weld-in a new nut.

KS

 

[jasond]

I've done mine 3 times. If you have a lift, it is not too bad. It does require some thought, however. You need to drop the exhaust from the cats back, then remove the heat shield and drive shaft, pull the calipers and suspend them free of the sub frame, and disconnect your e brake cables or whatever setup you have, then you will need to remove the 4 long bolts for mounting the sub frame to the car body. They can be difficult, if you live in a rust belt state. Be prepared for some heavy weight when this is ready yo come down. If you work from the ground and not a lift, you may need a transmission jack to accept the weight, as the differential and axles add a lot of weight to the assembly. I left my control arms on and I believe that I disconnected the shocks from the lower control arms. Once safely supported on the floor, I was able to remove all other parts. I did this because I had three failures of the body mount bushings. I was able to replace the bushings through a jaguar S type part retailer, since they sell the bushings, unlike Ford, who only had a complete rear sub frame as a maintenance philosophy, nothing smaller. The old bushings were able to be burned out of the sub frame. They burn around 20 minutes and make a heck of a mess since they flow out liquified rubber when they burn. Make sure if you do this, you do this outdoors. I think that the old bushings could be pressed out instead of burning.

Mike -- are all four of the bushings the same? It looks like I am going to have to replace these bushings on my '02.

 

[milehighmikey]

Mike -- are all four of the bushings the same? It looks like I am going to have to replace these bushings on my '02.

No, the front two are the same and the rear two are the same, but they are different from one another. I have yet to see a rear bushing go bad, though. All 3 of my failed bushings were the front left one on the rear sub-frame.

 

[DeviLSh]

Here is what I have for F&R subframe bushings in the rear of the car:

XR818140
XR818141

I will also be purchasing a set for when my rear Kframe goes back on. I had mine pressed out already. Let me know if you find them anywhere cheaper.

FWIW I also attempted to cross reference these against XK upgraded POLY units available from SuperPro/Powerflex (common jag aftermarket brands) And it does not look like they are shared with the DEW98 cars. The oem units are fairly stiff though, so there may not be much to gain with an upgrade, other than potential dynamic alignment change at the limit in the rear with OEM bushings. As well as potential failure as demonstrated by Mike above.