Hey all, I got a few questions about the car and some things I noticed about it. First off- If you are driving say 45mph and the car is in 4th, and you PUNCH it does your car go 4-2 or 4-3-2. Mine does 4-3-2 and it gets rather annoying. Also, any time I am going 40mph or above and I punch it it will only drop down to 2nd gear. But if I get it to say 37-38 mph and hit it it will drop into 1st and take off like a bat out of hell and shift around 50-55mph. Will a chip change these shift "oddeties"? And when I hit it above 40 and it drops to 2nd it seems to bog- Like it wants to go but can't. It gets better after I get to 55 or so. Someone said a higher stall TQ converter would solve that, but I can't see spending $600+ for a TC on a 99% street car. I was also told 3.73s would help tremendously. Any suggestions or input is greatly appreciated.
Annoying Shifts
- Thread starter WackyWRZ
- Start date
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
A chip will definitely change the shift for the better. I believe a 4-2 shift is normal but I've read it is not good for the 4R70W.
You can also change a lot by disengaging O/D(4th) in certain situations. Even before the chip, my '93 was a different animal with O/D disengaged. Of course living in hilly rural terrain like I do, it is not the same for everyone and your experience with O/D may differ.
The real deal is a change to 4.10s. You will be up into the power band so much more with 4.10 gears that O/D will seem like a true 4th gear rather than a coasting/cruising gear. You may consider 3.73s especially if yours is a daily driver.
The 'bogging' shifts are dealt with more installing a shift kit or J-mod. Do not neglect a transmission cooler or the 1-2 accumulator upgrade as well as fresh Mercon V transmission fluid.
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/index.html
http://www.baumannengineering.com/
My '93 has the 1-2 accumulator upgrade, transmission cooler, LMS performance chip, Mercon V and 4.10s with traction lock. The difference from what it was stock to now is like night and day. I intend to install a shift kit and maybe one day a stall converter.
You can also change a lot by disengaging O/D(4th) in certain situations. Even before the chip, my '93 was a different animal with O/D disengaged. Of course living in hilly rural terrain like I do, it is not the same for everyone and your experience with O/D may differ.
The real deal is a change to 4.10s. You will be up into the power band so much more with 4.10 gears that O/D will seem like a true 4th gear rather than a coasting/cruising gear. You may consider 3.73s especially if yours is a daily driver.
The 'bogging' shifts are dealt with more installing a shift kit or J-mod. Do not neglect a transmission cooler or the 1-2 accumulator upgrade as well as fresh Mercon V transmission fluid.
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/index.html
http://www.baumannengineering.com/
My '93 has the 1-2 accumulator upgrade, transmission cooler, LMS performance chip, Mercon V and 4.10s with traction lock. The difference from what it was stock to now is like night and day. I intend to install a shift kit and maybe one day a stall converter.
It does have a TransGO kit, but its not the kit that makes for firmer shifts, its the "improvement" kit that helps make the trans last longer, and I believe even is supposed to soften up the shifts. I bought the TransGO to put in it, bit found the kit was already in the car when I bought it. I do know all the 1-2, 2-3, etc... was done in the kit, and by reading the instructions again, I see it makes the 4-3-2 instead. Maybe it will be undone when I do the JMOD. It also has fresh fluid and filter (reg merc, but still).
4.10s are a far option as I don't want to get into the D/S vibration issuses, and yes it is a daily driver. I have had it up to 110 MPH (stock tires, gears) with no noticable vibration.
The bogging I am refering to is not shift related, but engine related I believe. I was romping on it today, and noticed that from a stop it really seems to bog until it gets past 3500rpm. Its a weird feeling, and hard to explain. After it gets up in the power band I can really feel it pulling me back in the seat, but below its almost like a floating sensation. I am thinking it might be wires or fuel related. It has original wires, and the MSDs are in the works within the week if I deem them important. I have a 3.73 set and a Trac-Lock lined up as well. Is there a good writeup on the swap for the gears anywhere?
Thanks
4.10s are a far option as I don't want to get into the D/S vibration issuses, and yes it is a daily driver. I have had it up to 110 MPH (stock tires, gears) with no noticable vibration.
The bogging I am refering to is not shift related, but engine related I believe. I was romping on it today, and noticed that from a stop it really seems to bog until it gets past 3500rpm. Its a weird feeling, and hard to explain. After it gets up in the power band I can really feel it pulling me back in the seat, but below its almost like a floating sensation. I am thinking it might be wires or fuel related. It has original wires, and the MSDs are in the works within the week if I deem them important. I have a 3.73 set and a Trac-Lock lined up as well. Is there a good writeup on the swap for the gears anywhere?
Thanks
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
WackyWRZ said:
I wish there was. I should've took notes and pics when I done mine a while back.
Actually, when I done mine I used the factory Helms manual for changing the gears and diff. Ray(aka 1wykdmk8) has a nice technical section for help with the actual swap of the center section.
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
WackyWRZ said:
The manual has you using a case spreader, a pinion depth gauge set, special pullers, bearing pre-load tools, seal installers, etc...
All I had was the manual, a dial indicator, a digital caliper and basic hand tools. A torch came in handy removing a stubborn bearing from the used traction lock differential I was rebuilding and an oven to warm the new bearings in lieu of a press.
Relatively easy is a politically correct term. For the amateur mechanic it would probably be relatively hard. For an experienced wrench turner with a Snap-On revolving credit line the Ford 8.8 IRS setup is a piece of cake.
The pinion nut is cranked way beyond 160 foot pounds. When setting the pinion shaft with a crush sleeve, it takes over 400 foot pounds to tighten the pinion nut crushing the sleeve and setting the bearing preload. Be warned the pinion bearing preload is a narrow target and you are advised against backing off the pinion nut if you get it too tight!
Well, I would have help.... My dad and brother have a Pro-Am stock car and they set the gears in it up, but its a Ford 9". They don't know if its similar enough for them to know anything about it.
Also as far as the tranny goes I found the following on www.supercoupeperformance.com. They offer the TransGO kit that is for better shifts:
Trans-Go Shift Kit
Fully Adjustable, with full-throttle 3-4 up shifts
Includes Hi-Rev kit (6000 rpm up shift capability - a $50 part if purchased separately)
Includes Instructional video for easy installation.
Question is exactly what is a Hi-Rev kit? Is that a SCP item or a TransGO item?
Also as far as the tranny goes I found the following on www.supercoupeperformance.com. They offer the TransGO kit that is for better shifts:
Trans-Go Shift Kit
Fully Adjustable, with full-throttle 3-4 up shifts
Includes Hi-Rev kit (6000 rpm up shift capability - a $50 part if purchased separately)
Includes Instructional video for easy installation.
Question is exactly what is a Hi-Rev kit? Is that a SCP item or a TransGO item?
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
The basics of setting up the gears is the same. I actually think it's easier than non-IRS rear ends such as the Ford 9". A manual would really be helpful to peruse beforehand and see if it's something you'd be comfortable with. That's what I did. After reviewing the manual and enlisting the help of a friend, neither of us had worked on the Ford IRS 8.8 before, I decided it was within my capabilities.
After all - the worse that could happen is to give up and turn it over to someone else who knows what they're doing, right?
As far as the Trans-Go kits, I don't know, except to say the supercoupe place is good to deal with and they will talk straight with you if you ask questions.
Maybe the 4-3-2 shift in the Trans-Go kit was done to help the earlier model transmissions last?
After all - the worse that could happen is to give up and turn it over to someone else who knows what they're doing, right?
As far as the Trans-Go kits, I don't know, except to say the supercoupe place is good to deal with and they will talk straight with you if you ask questions.
Maybe the 4-3-2 shift in the Trans-Go kit was done to help the earlier model transmissions last?