Amp placement: Who has the most out-of-the-way location?

[FDR]

I'll likely be buying an amp for my subs and I'd like to keep it out of the way. I have a pair of 8" subs mounted in the shelf, so it's not like I already have an enclosure in the trunk. I've considered mounting it where the factory amp goes under the brake light, but with most amps being twice the size, it might not be that practical.

So who thinks they have the most low key installation? Anyone not have it bolted through the trunk liner? Pictures would be appreciated.

 

[Phlox]

I plan on fabricating a "shelf" inside my spare tire well that's hinged so it can be "flipped" out of the way and still maintain access to the spare. There was another member on here that mentioned doing something similar (http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?85729-Fiberglass-Sub-Box-Complete!!&highlight=subwoofer+box see post number 15.) No pictures of his amp mount, but after I did some inspection and some measuring, I can pretty much imagine what it looks like. In fact, I'm basing a lot of my subwoofer install off this idea.

 

[1LoudLS]

where you put it all depends on the actual amp you choose and how big it is will dictate where it can fit...

if you get one efficient enough that doesn't put off much heat and you can hide it somewhere like next to the spare tire or possibly behind the carpet (like opposite if the REM)

 

[FDR]

I'm looking at 500w Class Ds that all seem to be under 10"x10" so heat and size should be alright. I know it'll depend on the amp, but I'm just looking for ideas. Next to the spare could work. I forgot it's squared off on the bumper side

 

[LS4me]

I'm looking at 500w Class Ds that all seem to be under 10"x10" so heat and size should be alright. I know it'll depend on the amp, but I'm just looking for ideas. Next to the spare could work. I forgot it's squared off on the bumper side

Look behind the driver's side trunk liner. There is a void between the outer fender and the inner brace. I mounted my amp there.

 

[FDR]

That looks pretty good. Thanks

 

[n8bachelor]

Look behind the driver's side trunk liner. There is a void between the outer fender and the inner brace. I mounted my amp there.

That is where the factory THX amp in my 2006 is located. I'll use this location for my aftermarket amp when I have to replace my factory system. The rear deck sub amp is tiny and is located under the rear shelf. I would not recommend placing a standard sub amp there.

Frank: Can you post up some pictures of the 8" subs on your rear deck? I am very interested in upgrading the 6x9 subs that are there.
Thanks

 

[FDR]

I went on CRutchfield, picked 8" and IB (infinite baffle, does not need an enclosure). That narrowed it down to 4 Kickers at the time, 2 SVC 2-ohm and 4-ohm, 2 DVCs. I only used a tin snips to cut strips and bend them down. Adapter is 1/8" MDF if I remember correctly. I'd strongly recommend drill the screw hole template from the bottom, not drilling with self-tapping screws and a flex-shaft through the top like I did.

I was very pleased with them with the factory radio and amp, but after installing an aftermarket radio, the lack of power is evident. The factory amp, as far as I can tell, is 85w total. I believe the factory subs were marked as 2ohm 45w. The Kickers are 200w. I picked the DVC 2ohm to give me more flexibility with the future amp. I'm guessing the factory radio tapered off bass frequencies as volume goes up for protection. This also seems to be the case in my Taurus with the factory Mach amp and a powered Bazooka tapped off the rear speakers.

With the adapter MDF, the Kickers are less than 1/2" lower than the factory subs. They still fit in the trunk liner








Engine silicone because I'm cool like that. The tube is cracked and will probably dry out long before I finish using it

 

[1LoudLS]

had a guy in the other day thinking about having me do almost exactly that in a first gen fusion with the sound system almost exactly like ours (except for the center console speakers).

I'm interested to see how you think they sound once its all hooked up!

 

[theophile]

How far down would it protrude into the trunk if you were to mount those things from underneath without enlarging the holes in the deck? I'm toying with trying something like this but I don't want to cut the metal. Right now I've got a pair of 4-way 6x9 JVCs that came out of my previous car. The baskets were just a bit too wide to drop into the factory holes from above, and the lip around the holes contacted the surround when I tried to mount it flush from underneath, so I took a 1/2" diameter wooden dowl, drilled out the center of it, and then used the bandsaw to slice off 8 little spacers 1/2" thick. I put those between the speaker and the deck with a screw through each and it works great. Of course, that lets air pass through the gap resulting in less bass, but a layer of HVAC foil tape around the edge sealed that up perfectly.

This is really a temporary solution for me because I know the 6x9s are a poor substitute for a legit sub, plus with the high-pass filter, those 4-ways are really going to waste!

 

[FDR]

Well, siht. I'm pretty sure I accidentally connected the sub to the front left RCA jack after doing some testing. Good news, though, I then turned off the high pass filter on the fronts and the subs started bumping pretty well (at least compared to the HPF set to ~100Hz). I tried pulling the deck out, but the wires are pinched and I couldn't get it more than half way so I can't check yet. This is just depressing because I did everything else fine. All the soldering, cutting, splicing, and programming, but not the RCA plug.

So 1LoudLS, when I open the dash for this a few other things (like correcting the illumination wire and tapping into retained accessory power), I'll get back to you

Does the center amp have it's own high pass filter? My deck doesn't have a center channel, just two fronts, two rears, and two subs. I'm going to make sure they're plugged into the front left.

Theophile, the adapter is 1/8", the sub ring is at most 1/4", and the lip for the 6x8 cutout is about 1/8", so bottom mounting them would probably be 1/2" lower, maybe 3/4" when you account for the surround's throw. That would put the 3-7/8" top mount depth at 4-5/8" bottom mount. They have pretty beefy baskets and the plugs are on the side, so I think they'd take the occasional impact from cargo.

 

[1LoudLS]

plus with the high-pass filter, those 4-ways are really going to waste!

"LOW PASS" its the low passing filters that cut the high range of sound out

So 1LoudLS, when I open the dash for this a few other things (like correcting the illumination wire and tapping into retained accessory power), I'll get back to you

I'll be here!

Does the center amp have it's own high pass filter? My deck doesn't have a center channel, just two fronts, two rears, and two subs. I'm going to make sure they're plugged into the front left.

neither the front amp or the rear sub amp have any internal crossovers in them, all the filtering was done inside the factory radio. the amps themselves are All-Pass. you will have to have the HPF set in the radio to protect those speakers from damage.

 

[FDR]

"LOW PASS" its the low passing filters that cut the high range of sound out



I'll be here!



neither the front amp or the rear sub amp have any internal crossovers in them, all the filtering was done inside the factory radio. the amps themselves are All-Pass. you will have to have the HPF set in the radio to protect those speakers from damage.

Unfortunately, not having a dedicated center channel means I'd have to limit door speakers as well. It wasn't something I looked for in the radio, unfortunately. This is my first real audio project though, so I've learned from it. Previously, I just installed a Bazooka tube in my other car and replaced my dead subwoofers in this car.

Anyway, I opened the dash, and sure enough, I plugged the subwoofer RCA into the front left. I was just matching colors on autopilot, I guess. I moved the sub to the sub and, well, I'm happy. It's still not that clean, but at least it's wired correctly. The sound could be muddy for a number of reasons: poor song choice/quality, stock amp limitations, sub limitations, or maybe just parts rattling around. I'll have to do more testing, but at least it's back to matching the factory radio.

For the center, I'm thinking of plugging it into the rear speakers' output and setting the HPF a bit higher than the fronts (since the mids play into your knees and the sub is right behind your head anyway). Maybe set the fronts to 100, the rears to 140, and the sub LPF to 100. Any input? Should I look for a stand-alone crossover to put in line? Quickly looking at Crutchfield, they have a number of "Bass-Blockers" with 150, 300, 600, and 800Hz variations for $10.

I panicked a little bit after switching the sub wire because suddenly, I only had really high and really low pitched sound, then realized none of the doors were playing. I had turned "amplifier gain" to off, thinking it was the artificial power boost setting. That setting is just blatantly called "Loud". Should the gain be set to high or low? They both sounded the same to me and I figured low was the safe choice.

 

[cpgoodman]

Here's what i did. Had plans to do this since i bought the car in 04 and i finally got around to it this fall. Boston G2 12 and Boston mono block totally out of the way. Im having a floor mat made for the trunk that looks like the interior mats. Should tie it together nice.

 

[Phlox]

Whats the cubic feet volume of your sub box cpgoodman? Nice setup you got there!

 

[cpgoodman]

Its a little under a cube so i loaded up on some poly-fill. Boston recommends a cube for that 12.

 

[FDR]

That's nice, though I'd constantly be worried about cargo bouncing into it

 

[n8bachelor]

I recall some custom fit ones for the LS trunk going around here and ebay a few years ago. I wish I would have picked one up now. How much do you think something like this would cost to have made? This is some pretty sweet work. That is the only way I will get my sub back. When it was behind the seats I bemoaned the loss of cargo space and crappy access to the spare and battery. I kept one of my subs when I upgraded to the '06 LS this year.

 

[1LoudLS]

How much do you think something like this would cost to have made?

while every shop is different, around my area, you would be hard to find somebody that will build a complete custom fiberglass box starting under $300... while the materials are fairly cheap, the work itself is kinda time consuming and the shop still needs to turn a profit.

 

[RigsLS]

... installed a Bazooka tube in my other car and

Big fan of the 100W preamped version of that tube, I've moved it from truck to truck a few times now, so simple a caveman can do it, just enough to make a difference without getting into anything major to install. I have to be able to pull my crap out of a truck at a given notice, so this works for me. Has served me right for about 4 years now, still sounds as good as when I first got it. Mind ya, it won't rattle the rear plate but that's all I need, a little extra from stock. plenty of Boom Boom Black Peas from that little unit!

+1 on the portable BAZOOKA tube. Always strap it in right behind the drivers seat, usually right in front of the fridge and inverter. LOL





EDIT --- removed a stupid YouTube reference. :slam

 

[FDR]

I made wood cradles, attached them with large hose clamps, and then stuck the hook halves of velcro to the bottom of the cradles. The cradles (just a trapezoid with a circular cut on top made from 1x3" pine) keep the unit upright, the velcro grabs onto the trunk carpeting to keep it in place and offer a little more stability. Mine's the 250w 6" though. Interestingly, I got both a used 250w and a 100w 6" from a tow truck company that was selling them off. The 100 rolled around in the storage area under the bench seat