Alternator Pic Link or help needed

marcredd

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I thought I bookmarked it but I know there is an old thread somewhere with a pic of how to angle the alternator on a Gen 1 3.9 so that it can be removed. I searched via Google as well as the search function here but it is buried so well that I cannot find it now(when I need it).

Does someone else have it bookmarked or remember how to angle it so that it can come out without the fight I always hear about? I do have the instructions Quick posted a number of years ago and they seem very straightforward. Just wanted the pic to make the final step as relatively smooth as possible.

Thanks in advance....
 
It needs to me "coached" out, does it ?
Maybe even a few words of sweet love as well.

Fn thing!
 
The fun begins at 12:30pm today(est). I'll let you know how much cursing gets done afterwards. LOL.
 
OEM. I am still very interested in upgrading though. It was the pain that most have previously described. A very tight area to work within.

It is not for someone who is not either good with a wrench or not patient enough to see it through.
 
OEM.
It is not for someone who is not either good with a wrench or not patient enough to see it through.

Very true.

I am going to try the Ohio Generator HO alt this spring. Broseph just got the Wrangler alt but he's having issues with it similar to all the others. He is talking with Wrangler to try and get something resolved.
 
Learned I had a leak from my power steering pump reservoir so being under there helped me see a secondary issue I was not quite yet aware was going on.
 
I am so tempted to let a local shop repair my now old alternator and see what the results end up being. He only charges $100 and comes with a 2 year warranty. I have a donor car available to put it on and see if it actually will work.

Again, so tempted.....
 
I am so tempted to let a local shop repair my now old alternator and see what the results end up being. He only charges $100 and comes with a 2 year warranty. I have a donor car available to put it on and see if it actually will work.

Again, so tempted.....

This is probably the best path as long as the diode trio is servicable. I tried to open my old one briefly but didn't succeed (and didn't want to mess with the core charge).
The most common failures are brushes (easy as long as you can source the right ones) and diodes (ditto). The rest is just a few chips, a bunch of wire and some magnets!
 
I will get around to dropping it off in a month or so and have him call me with his diagnosis before authorizing him to repair. I will be sure to update this thread as things go along. It is not an immediate pressing matter as the charging issue has been resolved.

Thankfully, I was able to get the car home when it went bad without killing the battery. I put it on the floating charger in the meantime. Thus far, all is back as it is supposed to be.
 
So.....looks like I am having a few issues I NEVER experienced until the alternator change. First, a sh**load of alternator whine through the stereo. Second, I have seen my abs and traction light come on from time to time.

Anyone have thoughts on what I can do to resolve the issues? I double checked the ground to tje alternator and it is solid.

Joe? Hite? Anyone?
 
^ if the alternator was the only thing replaced, it has to be a problem with the alt. that's the only thing that i can think of.

i would have the battery tested as well, with a old alt failing, it could have caused some damage to the battery that could be adding to the stress to the newish alt

the intermittent dash lights from the ABS and traction control also point to a power problem
 
Thanks guys. I will test the battery to be safe. I have left it parked for a few days so I will check the battery but was also leaning toward the alternator. Now I am about ready to cuss since it is going to be a case of going back in to replace again.
 
Before pulling your battery or alt out, if you have access to a DVM go ahead and check your readings with the ignition and all your accesories off and then on. You should get a reading of 12.4-12.8 depeding on battery and condtion during off and lower 14s to upper 13s with the car on (again, variences depending on what electronics you have on.

Also, go ahead and measure AC volts, Joegr knows more on when to test (car off IIRC?) and see what it reads. If the alt is bad, chances are a diode was poorly soldered and already bit it, if that's the case you should have a pretty large AC voltage coming through. Again, I'm not totally sure on these perameters - best find out from someone like Joegr, and you can easily figure out your issue in your garage with 2 minutes of investigation.

Or have the battery tested, and let the alternator cussing continue
 
Quick update to the Wrangler HO alt (I'll put that in the main thread as well). It's going back - but, oh not to be returned. After a crap load of emails and back and forth and my own voltage readings at different rpms and loads, we've come to the conclusion that a smaller pulley is needed to turn the alternator on just a few hundred engine rpms sooner.

I was getting voltage up to 14.2 at 750-900 rpms after the car initially drops to idle. The kicker is when the car is driven for a while and gets to normal operating temps the idle drops to the normal 550-625 range. That's when the power dropped off, especially when anything with decent electrical load was running (damn rear defroster takes a sh** load of power to run)

To those who suggested "Hey, just unplug the regulator to the alternator"....so wrong. It actually put the alternator into a lower state and ran at 13.6 at idle. When plugged in it ran at the previously stated 14.3ish volts. Therefore, the regulator puts the alt into it's highest state -seems counterintuitive with the PCM control used for fuel economy and load reduction - emph, moving on.

The alt pulley measured in at 2 5/8 and the crank 6 3/4 roughly. That's ~ 3:1 for the mathematically challenged...which is standard for most cars. So back to Wrangler the alt goes, Eldon is putting a 2" pulley on which is ~3.5:1 -I checked and he verified, this should cause no overheating issues with the alt - it's pretty much the max ratio before getting into worrisome rpm territories.

I might actually upload a few pics during this install and may get a few LS shots in as well, but I was trying to hold out until all cosmetic work is done since alex, trublue, mlara (the list of jealousy continues ;)) are making the work cut out for us white Gen I owners.
 
You'll be installing a stock, Motorcraft alternator before this is over. The PCM controls the alternator, not a separate regulator (like in the old days). If this alternator causes undue stress on the PCM, you'll probably be replacing that too.
 

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