Air suspension compressor?

roman_capps

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bad air suspension.jpg


well this happened and I was wondering if it was the compressor I have never seen the front end of a town car that low any help would be appearciated

bad air suspension.jpg
 
Check ride height sensor.

Check it for what?

It appears that it's not your front that is so low, but that your rear suspension is too high.

If the car is sitting level from left to right, that is typically caused by a defective vent solenoid, which is an integral part of the air compressor and not serviceable, not allowing the system to vent.

By chance, did you have the car loaded to cause the rear suspension to pump up to the proper trim height before this was observed?

If so, the system failed to vent, when the load was relieved.

You have 2 choices:

  1. Replace the compressor assembly.
  2. Do as I did, fit the system with an external vent solenoid valve for a total cost of ~ $30.
Good luck.
 
Check to see if it works or if its out of range.
If out of range he may have to manually vent it.
You can also "rent" the rotunda superstar tester from american air to properly diagnose the problem.
 
thank you all very much and yes I had me my sister and my cousin in the back which our total weight would've been near 700lbs we are all fat people lol yep and about 5 mins down the road the check air suspension light came on the dash. and that's why it was like that
 
Check the sensor with a meter
Out of range as in it could come out of a socket or been extended too far
As to vent manually you could take the solenoid out or a power to both vent solenoids one on the bag one on the compressor.
 
Well that all makes sense. Heavy load, system inflates, load is relieved, system tries to vent to get back to trim height, venting doesn't happen, system didn't trim, height sensor is not happy, check air suspension lamp illuminates and system shuts down until reset with the ignition switch being cycled.

I would bet the farm your vent solenoid is fubar or intermittently so. Mine acted the same way and sometimes it would vent, most of the time it wouldn't. The solenoid lives in an atmosphere of moisture laden air and corrosion finally gets the best of it.

Check the sensor with a meter

Procedure please. Meter type? What wires to probe. Values? Without these parameters, I don’t know how anyone could possibly test it.

BTW, the system can not be checked with the Rotunda SUPER STAR tester, but requires the Rotunda SUPER STAR II tester.

Out of range as in it could come out of a socket or been extended too far

If a height sensor socket came off of one of the balls, it would default to full length, thus simulating being too high. At that point the system vents and you experience full deflation. No need to ask me how I know, but my back is still sore from the rough ride home. That is the default, rather than turning on the compressor and burning it up.

The system would try to vent, but if the vent solenoid is inoperable it’s not going to happen.

As to vent manually you could take the solenoid out or a power to both vent solenoids one on the bag one on the compressor.

I think you have some big misconceptions about how the system actually works and it might be worth your time to curl up with a manual if you have one. All 3 solenoids (2 air spring solenoids, and the vent solenoid) are provided B+ whenever the system is active. To energize the solenoids the B+ is taken to ground by the control module via the device coil.

To vent the system you would have to remove both air spring solenoids, something I would not recommend.

To vent the system you would have to take both air spring solenoids and the vent solenoid to ground at the same time.

However, if the vent solenoid is fubar, all deals are off.

Good luck.
 
I'm sorry I forgot the II before tester but I'm sure Eddie would have figured it out if he called him.
As for every thing else I've done it on mark viii's
So I feel no need to spoon feed all the info on how to.
As for what meter I would use the ohm setting.
Also as with the front of a mark viii if the sensor falls off it will over inflate the bag and when I put on a new sensor it was out of range so I had to "manually " let air out.
If the rear falls off it will drop to the ground on a mark
And the selenoids work on 12 volts so very easy to manipulate.
 
I'm also not saying its not the vent solenoid its a good chance it is.
That being said I do free things first not just throw new parts at something.
 
well thank you both for helping me now I need help on finding the compressor assembly
 
As for every thing else I've done it on mark viii's

The last time I looked roman_capps was asking questions about a '93 Town Car, not a Mark VIII. The rear height sensor on a Town Car is not only physically different, but electrically different than one on a Mark VIII. Just check your service manuals. You will find the TC sensor has 4 wire connections, the Mark VIII has 3.

So I feel no need to spoon feed all the info on how to.

That’s because you have no clue on how to bench test a Town Car height sensor. If you feel no need to post the procedure, why post anything?

As for what meter I would use the ohm setting.

That's not much of a tip if you don't give the procedure.

Also as with the front of a mark viii if the sensor falls off it will over inflate the bag and when I put on a new sensor it was out of range so I had to "manually " let air out.

Excuse me, but we are not talking about a Mark VIII front suspension, we are talking about the rear air springs on a Town Car, not even close to the same car or system.

If the rear falls off it will drop to the ground on a mark
And the selenoids [sic] work on 12 volts so very easy to manipulate.

As I mentioned earlier, B+ is supplied to all three solenoids whenever the system is active and are energized by taking them to ground, just as the Air Suspension/EVO Steering Module does.

I'm also not saying its [sic] not the vent solenoid its [sic] a good chance it is.

It’s nice to know we agree on something.

That being said I do free things first not just throw new parts at something.

That’s an excellent idea, but you offered absolutely nothing to help roman_capps with his/her problem. In fact your suggestions are not even applicable to the car in question.
 
The rear air suspension compressor is located in the lower LH front of the engine compartment under the air cleaner assembly.

To remove the compressor:

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Remove air cleaner housing assembly.
3. Remove washer bottle assembly.
4. Remove compressor splash shield and push pins.
5. Remove air line from dryer by pushing retainer inward and pulling out air line.
6. Disconnect compressor electrical connector.
7. If necessary, raise vehicle on hoist.
8. Remove three retaining nuts securing compressor to fender apron.
9. Lower vehicle.
10. Remove compressor assembly.
11. To install, reverse Removal procedure.

Good luck.
 
Here I found this in my saved in my phone
How to manually vent

Switch off the air suspension and disconnect the control module connector, then simultaneously ground the Purple/Light Green, Light Blue/Black and Pink wires. The rear of the car should lower. If not then check the fuse and try again if blown. Next, gain access to the compressor assembly and disconnect the air line from the drier. Then once again ground the Purple/Light Green wire and the left side should lower - ground the Light Blue/Black wire and the right side should lower.

From these tests you will know if both spring solenoids are working and if they are, whether or not the vent solenoid is working.
 
I do consider this spoon feeding cause I don't recall everything from memory so I did a simple search for info
Sensor test

Pink/White = Power
Black/Pink = Ground
Orange/Black = Low height input
Pink/Black = High height input



It is very important to follow these instructions exactly as damage to the height sensor may occur.

You will need a REGULATED 3.3volt (+/- 0.3 volts) power supply and a digital ohmmeter (multi-meter) as follows.
Connect the positive of the regulated 3.3volt power supply to the Pink/White (’90 – ’94) Purple/Light Green (’95 – ’97) wire, and the negative to the Black/Pink wire.
Connect the RED lead of the ohmmeter (multi-meter on ohms range) onto the Pink/Black OR the Orange/Black wire.
Connect the BLACK lead of the ohmmeter (multi-meter on ohms range) onto the negative of the power supply.
Observe the reading on the ohmmeter (multi-meter on ohms range) and compare with the table below.

00061_7.jpg
 
Here I found this in my saved in my phone
How to manually vent

Switch off the air suspension and disconnect the control module connector, then simultaneously ground the Purple/Light Green, Light Blue/Black and Pink wires. The rear of the car should lower. If not then check the fuse and try again if blown. Next, gain access to the compressor assembly and disconnect the air line from the drier. Then once again ground the Purple/Light Green wire and the left side should lower - ground the Light Blue/Black wire and the right side should lower.

From these tests you will know if both spring solenoids are working and if they are, whether or not the vent solenoid is working.

Where is this control module you speak of?

Any idea what fuse r_c should check and where it's located?

I think you have the cart before the horse. It would make more sense to test the fuse first, whatever fuse you're talking about.

If this anonymous fuse is open, there may be no need to go any further after replacing the fuse.

The rest of the procedure is spot on.

Now that r_c knows where the compressor is and how to remove the air line and if you fill in the blanks about the location of the module and fuse, r_c can go to work.

If it is determined that the vent solenoid is fubar, I will gladly post the procedure and BOM to plumb in an external vent solenoid valve, if r_c, or anyone else, is game to go that route rather than replacing the compressor.
 
Over a day has passed and I have to assume that slowmkvii has no clue as to where the Air Suspension/EVO Steering Module or the anonymous fuse is. The module located in the RH side of the trunk on support (D9). There are 2 connectors on the module C400 and C401. The wires to do his procedure are located in C400.

RAS.jpg

RAS Module.jpg

C400.jpg

The fuse in question is fuse U (30A) in the engine compartment fuse box.

Fuse U.jpg

You now have all the information to carry out the tests on the 3 solenoids. It's up to you, but I wouldn't even bother going through the procedure beyond checking fuse U as it's highly improbable that both air spring solenoids are fubar. If one was bad and the vent solenoid was operable, the system would vent only one side and your car would look like it is sitting on a mountainside.

If the fuse is okay and the control module is functional (highly probable), the vent solenoid is at fault.

The ball is in your court. Let me know if you want the data on an external vent solenoid valve.

Good luck.

RAS.jpg


RAS Module.jpg


C400.jpg


Fuse U.jpg
 
Thank you both BTW I'm a guy lol. slowmkviii thank you for your information my friend was looking for a car and I thought of the mark8 because he said he wanted the same engine like my TC but only a 2 door it may come in handy. no0c well, you especially pertained to my car you figured out what the guys and "TECHINICIANS" at my local ford place couldn't figure out :yourock: haha I was hoping you would tell me about that external vent solenoid valve lol I would save me some money. A 30$ over a 220$ fix yep you bet.
 
Apparently I have no clue what I'm talking about cause I took to long to answer
So you don't need to look at this pic if you dont want to.
This pic is from lol and shows the vent solenoid in the green circle

And I do currently own 95 and 96 town cars
8 years ago I had a 93 that had all the air problems that I fixed so sorry if some of my info isn't perfect.

52960_00061_2_3.jpg
 
Apparently I have no clue what I'm talking about cause I took to [sic] long to answer

Bingo, that is quite apparent. I only posted so r_c could get on with his troubleshooting. I didn’t figure it would take 24+ hours to tell him where the RAS module is or what fuse to check. And yes, I checked and you had been online without a response being made.

So you don't need to look at this pic if you dont [sic] want to.

I really didn't have much choice, did I? I know exactly where the vent solenoid is. I don't need a picture, but thanks just the same. I have seen them numerous times, in the flesh. That wasn't the question.

And I do currently own 95 and 96 town cars

Congratulations but I really don't care if you own a fleet of 153 Town Cars, you posted bad and/or incomplete information and that is worse than no information.

8 years ago I had a 93 that had all the air problems that I fixed so sorry if some of my info isn't perfect.

Once again congratulations, but your past experience doesn't in any way help r_c get to the bottom of his problem.

Good luck.
 
I sorry but I didn't think roman was a 5 year old
I assumed he could find some stuff for himself like a simple fuse
But you must be the only one here who knows such things.
The pic wasn't for you but for roman cause I figured a simple pic would help him understand the relation between the compressor and its vent solenoid.
But you ego is far to big to see that.

And as far as bad info your firs post was to spend money cause throwing parts at a car is the best and cheapest way to fix it.

I'm am now done responding to your ego building.
 
I [sic] sorry but I didn't think roman was a 5 year old

Brilliant, most 5 year olds do not own Town Cars.

I assumed he could find some stuff for himself like a simple fuse

You know what they say about assuming. In a forum you cannot assume anything. If r_c knew what to do he wouldn't be asking here. If he doesn't have an owner's manual, quite common, how could he find the fuse?

But you must be the only one here who knows such things.

Not hardly, but I certainly offered more help than you did.

The pic wasn't for you but for roman cause [sic] I figured a simple pic would help him understand the relation [sic] between the compressor and its vent solenoid.
But you [sic] ego is far to [sic] big to see that.

And exactly how is a picture going to help r_c troubleshoot his problem and fix it.

And as far as bad info your firs [sic] post was to spend money cause [sic] throwing parts at a car is the best and cheapest way to fix it.

You read less effectively than you write, if that is possible. I made no statement as to throwing parts at it, I simply suggested the most probably cause and the two options to repair it.

I'm [sic] am now done responding to your ego building.

I couldn't be happier. Don't let the door hit you where the good Lord split you.
 
well thank you both ill tell ya what ill do im gonna check fuse 8a to see if it's blown then I will try to ground the pink & black wire (ground) then ill try the wires that make the compressor inflate and deflate (can't remember the name of the wires) then i'll check the door wiring and she if that effects it at all then ill know for certain. I think I will just replace the entire assembly. BTW corrosion is a B****:Beer
 

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