JoeyLincolnMK8
Dedicated LVC Member
What is the best aftermarket cooling fan for our cars? I see a lot of them on summit, can anyone point me in the right direction? I appreciate it guys!
Aftermarket cooling fan question.
- Thread starter JoeyLincolnMK8
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Roadboss
Dedicated LVC Member
If you are talking radiator, the one that is on our cars now is one of the best ones for CFM.
JoeyLincolnMK8
Dedicated LVC Member
Well, I know the whole story w/ our fans and how good it is. But I am specifically looking for the best aftermarket cooling fans for the radiator.
turborich
Dedicated LVC Member
I'm not sure if you will find a fan or fans that pull more CFM's & that can mount in there properly. Maybe you could try Summit or Jegs?
I don't think that my factory fan has ever been on high. At least I haven't seen it spinning that fast. It seems like a low to medium amount of air to me but it keeps it cool. Maybe wiring your stock fan directly to 12 volts using a relay would produce more air flow if that's what you are looking for.
I don't think that my factory fan has ever been on high. At least I haven't seen it spinning that fast. It seems like a low to medium amount of air to me but it keeps it cool. Maybe wiring your stock fan directly to 12 volts using a relay would produce more air flow if that's what you are looking for.
JoeyLincolnMK8
Dedicated LVC Member
Here is the deal, I have done absolutely everything to resolve this "overheating" issue. During normal driving, could be 10 or 20 mins the temp gauge will spike to the "O" then it will slowly drop back down to "M". If the needle is on "O" and I am not moving, it will then drop to "A". It does not matter if I have the ac on or off. This weekend I will be replacing all the hoses for the coolant system. I just want something to fall back on if replacing the hoses do not work. Last year I flushed the coolant 3 times, making sure there is no air still in the system. Also last year the water pump and oil filter adapter gasket was replaced along w/ a 160 t-stat. I know the Mark is PITA to bleed, but I am pretty sure there is no air trapped in the system. So after monitoring this issue, it is evident that there is some time of restriction happening here, or some type of failure w/ the fan.
turborich
Dedicated LVC Member
Are you sure that your temp gauge isn't just reading wrong?
My Mark will sometimes jump up to the 3/4 mark on the gauge. My friends 94 will almost peg it to the top. I have checked the tempurature with a infered thermometer at the x-over pipe & it's not any hotter than when the gauge was at a normal reading. I really think these gauges are whacked out in the Gen 1's.
Have you verified that your engine is actually running hot? I would start by doing that. You may even want to install a manual temp gauge in the x-over filler hole just so that you can verify this for sure.
Do you have the plastic air deflector under the front bumper? This helps while driving, it forces air up into the A/C condensor & radiator. I know this to be true because my 95 was missing this part when I bought it. After installing it back onto the car the temp was reduced on the highway.
Also if you really think it's the fan then I would disconnect it & run direct battery power to it just to see if this improves the cooling.
I know that most say it's very hard to change the t-stat & to bleed the air, but I have never had an issue. It's pretty easy & straight forward.
Good luck to you.
My Mark will sometimes jump up to the 3/4 mark on the gauge. My friends 94 will almost peg it to the top. I have checked the tempurature with a infered thermometer at the x-over pipe & it's not any hotter than when the gauge was at a normal reading. I really think these gauges are whacked out in the Gen 1's.
Have you verified that your engine is actually running hot? I would start by doing that. You may even want to install a manual temp gauge in the x-over filler hole just so that you can verify this for sure.
Do you have the plastic air deflector under the front bumper? This helps while driving, it forces air up into the A/C condensor & radiator. I know this to be true because my 95 was missing this part when I bought it. After installing it back onto the car the temp was reduced on the highway.
Also if you really think it's the fan then I would disconnect it & run direct battery power to it just to see if this improves the cooling.
I know that most say it's very hard to change the t-stat & to bleed the air, but I have never had an issue. It's pretty easy & straight forward.
Good luck to you.
JoeyLincolnMK8
Dedicated LVC Member
Roadboss
Dedicated LVC Member
The fact that it is fluctuating means the fan is on and is doing it's job. I have two 96 Marks, and each reads different. You can have your fan put into full time mode with a chip change. Are you sure that your thermostat is correctly installed, maybe a temp sensor change will make a difference for your peace of mind. Remember that NORMAL is normal.
JoeyLincolnMK8
Dedicated LVC Member
The t-stat is and was installed correctly and I do have a chip. I notice the fan only kicking on when the needle is directly on "O". I have been debating about the temp sensor for the longest time. But I do have to say, the block and the crossover tube does get really hot. I do not know if this is typical or not, but I did notice that the radiator shroud gets hot as well.
turborich
Dedicated LVC Member
I think (not sure) that the fan doesn't even turn on untill around 215 degrees & back off at 205 degrees unless the A/C is on.
I understand that the car didn't run hot at first and the deflector was never there however I would still get one. It is there for a reason. Doesn't the cooling fan turn off at speeds above 35 mph? If this is true then the deflector is almost required for sure. Only so much air can go through the small grille of the Mark VIII.
I agree with Roadboss about the (normal) range is OK. I would rather see numbers on it but that's not how it is. You can pick up a non-contact laser thermometer at harbor freight tools or pep boys for $30-$50 bux. Maybe even less if you shop around.
Is it excessevly hot where you live? It gets up to 118 here in the shade, about 160 radiating up from the black top so just imagine how hot it must get under the hood where that big engine is stuffed into without any breathing room. I think that the heat needs a way to be vented such as a opening in the rear of the hood. The owner of a radiator shop asked me just how much cooler I wanted my car to run? He then took out his laser thermometer & pointed it at the ground where it read 160 degrees. He said with that kind of heat radiating up off of the road a cooling system can only do so much. He told me that as long as it stays under 225-230 it's ok. I still think it's a little much IMO.
I understand that the car didn't run hot at first and the deflector was never there however I would still get one. It is there for a reason. Doesn't the cooling fan turn off at speeds above 35 mph? If this is true then the deflector is almost required for sure. Only so much air can go through the small grille of the Mark VIII.
I agree with Roadboss about the (normal) range is OK. I would rather see numbers on it but that's not how it is. You can pick up a non-contact laser thermometer at harbor freight tools or pep boys for $30-$50 bux. Maybe even less if you shop around.
Is it excessevly hot where you live? It gets up to 118 here in the shade, about 160 radiating up from the black top so just imagine how hot it must get under the hood where that big engine is stuffed into without any breathing room. I think that the heat needs a way to be vented such as a opening in the rear of the hood. The owner of a radiator shop asked me just how much cooler I wanted my car to run? He then took out his laser thermometer & pointed it at the ground where it read 160 degrees. He said with that kind of heat radiating up off of the road a cooling system can only do so much. He told me that as long as it stays under 225-230 it's ok. I still think it's a little much IMO.
JoeyLincolnMK8
Dedicated LVC Member
During the winter it can reach around 30 degrees and THAT is when I notice it running cool. But when it is 80+ degrees, that gauge jumps!
What is this deflector Turborich? and what does it look like? (i had my front bumper cover off a few weeks back and the only deflector things i saw were a black plastic flap by the pass side of the rad and 2 black plastic things just below the grille) Is this them? or is it something lower down? Curious...
turborich
Dedicated LVC Member
Here is a pic of it. It runs underneath the front bumper cover. I outlined it in red. It goes along the rear bottom of the bumper cover, if yours is there you will know instantly. It's about 1 1/2" - 2" in height.
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
is the radiator clean? like the fins, i see alot of radiators plugged up with crap from all the fields, usually gets stuck between the radiator and the condenser. this is usually the prob if the car is fine till you drive it then it overheats. some parts stores sell a long tube that screws onto a garden hose with a slit on the side of the end, spraying water sideways you can sneak it between the radiator/condenser and spray all that crap out
Speed Demon
Dedicated LVC Member
Was your water pump new or a reman? A crappy pump can go out in a few months in rare cases. When you do the hoses inspect the internals
(of the pump). Something is blocking your coolant flow. Disconnect your hoses and check flow through certain areas in your engine, block radiator, heater core. Maybe your thermostat failed. Time to start taking stuff apart.
Too many possibilites to diagnose. I doubt your fan is the culprit. Checking block temp is a good start.
(of the pump). Something is blocking your coolant flow. Disconnect your hoses and check flow through certain areas in your engine, block radiator, heater core. Maybe your thermostat failed. Time to start taking stuff apart.
Too many possibilites to diagnose. I doubt your fan is the culprit. Checking block temp is a good start.
JoeyLincolnMK8
Dedicated LVC Member
Was your water pump new or a reman? A crappy pump can go out in a few months in rare cases. When you do the hoses inspect the internals
(of the pump). Something is blocking your coolant flow. Disconnect your hoses and check flow through certain areas in your engine, block radiator, heater core. Maybe your thermostat failed. Time to start taking stuff apart.
My waterpump is new, it is off a 99+ cobra.
mmtphoto
Well-Known LVC Member
I have a data logger (goes on OBDII port) that records different perimeters I can select and when I hook it up to a computer and download the data, I get a graph of readings. This time of year, being cool, I usually run around 170-175, but in hot weather, I can get readings up to 215, then the fan cuts on. It drops it down to about 200, then will go back up to 215, back and forth. I have a 160 thermostat in, and if I run the defroster in winter, it'll barely get up to 160-the fan runs when the defroster is on. When it gets up to the 'O' in Normal, it is (on my Gen 1) at about 215. When down around the ''A', it is around 175. As a general rule, I figure that my temps are like this:
N=over 220
O=215-220
R=200-205
M=190-195
A=175-180
L=160-165
I have not seen any readings in the 'N's, but it often (in warm weather, stop and go driving) gets to the 'O' and then drops down to the 'R' range. If I run the air, it seems to stay closer to the 'R', but if it is really hot and I am in extended heavy traffic, I have had to shut off the air-it stays in the high 'O' range a little too much for me to feel comfortable about it. I think the fan is set to run at 215 no matter what, because it will then drop to 'R' after I shut off the air conditioner. There is a way to wire a switch so that you control when the fan runs-here is the link:
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=32840
Credit to Driller, but I never ended up doing this because, with the data logger, I realized that it is designed to work like that-the others are right, also, a chip can change the temp setting for the fan to go on and off. If you are in a really hot area, you can consider doing that, or wiring the fan so that you control it.
N=over 220
O=215-220
R=200-205
M=190-195
A=175-180
L=160-165
I have not seen any readings in the 'N's, but it often (in warm weather, stop and go driving) gets to the 'O' and then drops down to the 'R' range. If I run the air, it seems to stay closer to the 'R', but if it is really hot and I am in extended heavy traffic, I have had to shut off the air-it stays in the high 'O' range a little too much for me to feel comfortable about it. I think the fan is set to run at 215 no matter what, because it will then drop to 'R' after I shut off the air conditioner. There is a way to wire a switch so that you control when the fan runs-here is the link:
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=32840
Credit to Driller, but I never ended up doing this because, with the data logger, I realized that it is designed to work like that-the others are right, also, a chip can change the temp setting for the fan to go on and off. If you are in a really hot area, you can consider doing that, or wiring the fan so that you control it.
JoeyLincolnMK8
Dedicated LVC Member
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
Drop in a 160 degree thermostat and everything should stay kool.
Roadboss
Dedicated LVC Member
He has a 160 in it already, and the only thing that really does is open up a little earlier once it's open it will stay open.
mmtphoto
Well-Known LVC Member
dropping a 160 thermostat is not going to 'solve' it in hot Florida weather-because the ambient temp is higher, it is more difficult to transfer heat and your fan is the last line of defense. It is set to activate at 215 degrees unless you change the perimeters in the ECM or you manually switch it. You will still see the needle go up to the higher range of normal in hot/warm weather, and it will drop to the point the fan shuts off (about 200 degrees). The coolant will be circulating from the engine into the radiator at a lower temp (a 160 BEGINS to open and is not fully open until it hits about 172-75), so it will delay somewhat getting to full operating temp, but it will get there especially if it is 95 degrees, you have the air on, and you are in stop and go traffic. Like someone else here said, it is 'normal' as long as it is in that range-the most important thing is that it does not go up and stay there-it should cycle between 200 to 215 on hot days if the ECM is original and the VCRM and sensors are functioning as they should.
If you hate the thing sitting on the 'O' you need to chip it or put in a switch.
If you hate the thing sitting on the 'O' you need to chip it or put in a switch.
JoeyLincolnMK8
Dedicated LVC Member
I have a chip! lol When the temp gauge needle is on 'O' and I have been driving for awhile. I notice that the inside of the cabin starts to get really hot, but the weather outside is 40 degrees. Do you consider that an issue or no?
mmtphoto
Well-Known LVC Member
I'd have to think that something wasn't right-if it's 40 degrees out, and you have a 160 thermostat in it, and the only load was driving and some accessories, it seems like it should not get to the point where the fan would kick on and it run at 215 ('O')-unless you had a blockage in the radiator, or like TRich said, the airdam is missing-they do make a big difference at speed.
Even if it is chipped and it was tuned so that the fan would come on at a lower temp, the fact that it heats up that high in cool temps has to mean something is not right. Others talk about bad senders or inaccurate gauges, that is a possiblilty. From everything I've read, these fans are the best electric fans out there, but that doesn't mean yours is working properly, I guess. You keep mentioning hoses-if the lower radiator hose is real soft, maybe at speed it is collapsing and restricting the flow-they used to put wire in lower hoses to fix that, don't know if that's done anymore.
And there is always the infamous air in the system-you know about that, who doesn't-nothing worse than a car that runs hot. unless it's an aluminum block
. As long as it doesn't get over 215, I don't know that i'd worry too much, but when it's hot outside and mine is up there, I watch it-that's all you can do until you figure it out-that is the high end of 'normal' for these engines.
Even if it is chipped and it was tuned so that the fan would come on at a lower temp, the fact that it heats up that high in cool temps has to mean something is not right. Others talk about bad senders or inaccurate gauges, that is a possiblilty. From everything I've read, these fans are the best electric fans out there, but that doesn't mean yours is working properly, I guess. You keep mentioning hoses-if the lower radiator hose is real soft, maybe at speed it is collapsing and restricting the flow-they used to put wire in lower hoses to fix that, don't know if that's done anymore.
And there is always the infamous air in the system-you know about that, who doesn't-nothing worse than a car that runs hot. unless it's an aluminum block
. As long as it doesn't get over 215, I don't know that i'd worry too much, but when it's hot outside and mine is up there, I watch it-that's all you can do until you figure it out-that is the high end of 'normal' for these engines.
JoeyLincolnMK8
Dedicated LVC Member
Like I mentioned before, I highly doubt there is air still stuck in the system. Last year I had the coolant flushed 3 times and had the system bled probably 4-5 times?! I am getting the hoses changed tomorrow and probably while I am at it, might as well change the damn temp sensor too.